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Marauder Pistol for PFT? Crazy idea?

Ok, so I have this Marauder .22 pistol just sitting around gathering dust and I'm thinking of a fun little project for it.

Here's what I'm thinking:
Detune the Marauder a little to sub 12 fpe and set it up as a backup pistol for PFT, or just have it with me as a "loaner" gun if somebody new wants to try out Pistol Field Target at a shoot sometime, or worst case as just a plinker to burn up some of these .22 pellets I have sitting around. Well, I have good intentions anyway. :rolleyes:

I'm concerned trajectory will be pretty "loopy" because it's a .22 pistol even though it's only shooting out to 35 yards. Are there some other downsides I've not thought of?

If it's worth pursuing this project, could some of you more experienced Marauder pistol guru's consider giving me some tuning tips for such a project? Pellet suggestions, speed, etc.

I have some experience with the 1720T's but have zero experience with a Marauder pistol. Different cal's I know, but they seem to look very similar otherwise.
 
Reminds me of that time I thought I'd try to make a field target pistol out of a 1960s vintage Crosman C02 rifle that sold new for $19.95.:unsure:

187 RS.JPG



What the hell was I thinking? 🤪

187 Titles.jpg
 
Ok, so I have this Marauder .22 pistol just sitting around gathering dust and I'm thinking of a fun little project for it.

Here's what I'm thinking:
Detune the Marauder a little to sub 12 fpe and set it up as a backup pistol for PFT, or just have it with me as a "loaner" gun if somebody new wants to try out Pistol Field Target at a shoot sometime, or worst case as just a plinker to burn up some of these .22 pellets I have sitting around. Well, I have good intentions anyway. :rolleyes:

I'm concerned trajectory will be pretty "loopy" because it's a .22 pistol even though it's only shooting out to 35 yards. Are there some other downsides I've not thought of?

If it's worth pursuing this project, could some of you more experienced Marauder pistol guru's consider giving me some tuning tips for such a project? Pellet suggestions, speed, etc.

I have some experience with the 1720T's but have zero experience with a Marauder pistol. Different cal's I know, but they seem to look very similar otherwise.
You don't have to do a 177 conversion, it would be a little better for trajectory sake but try the predator GTO pellets out of the p-rod. If they shoot accurately then you could have a far more relative trajectory to a 177 shooting a 10.34 than trying to shoot a 15.9gr 22. It's totally doable.
 
You don't have to do a 177 conversion, it would be a little better for trajectory sake but try the predator GTO pellets out of the p-rod. If they shoot accurately then you could have a far more relative trajectory to a 177 shooting a 10.34 than trying to shoot a 15.9gr 22. It's totally doable.
Thank you Cameron for suggesting that option also.
Buying a tin of pellets to test out would be less expensive than doing a conversion.
Any recommendations for fps with these pellets?
 
I've set up my 1950s vintage Crosman 180 .22 pistol conversion for AAFTA field target. By shooting 14.3 grain JSBs at maximum power, mounting the scope higher than I usually prefer, and plotting an intelligent zero-range, my point-of-impact is within .40" at all AAFTA pistol field target ranges to 33 yards, and only .61" low at 35 yards. See the 'path' column below for details.

1706899129602.png


The 1950s vintage Crosman field target pistol-

180 HPA pistol.JPG


Close-up of the adjustable trigger mechanism producing crisp-as-glass 8-10 ounce trigger-breaks-

1706900078643.png
 
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Now that sounds like a pretty good option I hadn't thought about.

That would pretty much just involve buying and installing a new .177 breech and barrel assembly, correct?
Do the shroud and other parts just swap right over or are they different?
Not sure if the pistol breech is any different from a Mrod rifle (sure look the same) but recently I just converted my Mrod Rifle from .22 to a .177, and I was able to use the same .22 breech, just needed a new .177 bolt and a new barrel. I sourced directly from Crosman, think the bolt was around $20 and the Lothar .177 rifle barrel was just under a $100.
 
@Pea Shooter ,
Do you recall what size that transfer port was in case I may eventually want to go that route?

I have some of the Predator GTO's ordered that @Kerndtc suggested to try out. They'll be here at the end of the week.
While I was browsing I saw the H&N Field Target Trophy Green's at 9.56 gr. so I ordered 1 tin of those to try out too. Who knows?
Stay tuned....
 
@Pea Shooter ,
Do you recall what size that transfer port was in case I may eventually want to go that route?

I have some of the Predator GTO's ordered that @Kerndtc suggested to try out. They'll be here at the end of the week.
While I was browsing I saw the H&N Field Target Trophy Green's at 9.56 gr. so I ordered 1 tin of those to try out too. Who knows?
Stay tuned....
Gosh.
I knew you would ask that but if memory serves me right it was a .068” drill bit I used. It may have been a .058”.

I made my own T-port. Every Prod is a little different but not by a whole lot from my experience. I tuned a zillion of these after shooting a 99/100 up in Oregon.

I’d start with a .058” and slowly work my way up going no larger than a .072” bit. You can get a numbered drill bit set for not much money. Or hardware store for exact sizes. Take your caliper with you.

I’d get a 1,000 usable psi from 3k down to 2k and refill it. I set the stroke to zero or 1/8 turn. Mostly zero stroke and full/max hammer.

If your velocity is under what you want go up slightly on the drill bit till you get it. It might take you most of the day but you’ll need a chrony to make sure everything is bang on.
 
Gosh.
I knew you would ask that but if memory serves me right it was a .068” drill bit I used. It may have been a .058”.

I made my own T-port. Every Prod is a little different but not by a whole lot from my experience. I tuned a zillion of these after shooting a 99/100 up in Oregon.

I’d start with a .058” and slowly work my way up going no larger than a .072” bit. You can get a numbered drill bit set for not much money. Or hardware store for exact sizes. Take your caliper with you.

I’d get a 1,000 usable psi from 3k down to 2k and refill it. I set the stroke to zero or 1/8 turn. Mostly zero stroke and full/max hammer.

If your velocity is under what you want go up slightly on the drill bit till you get it. It might take you most of the day but you’ll need a chrony to make sure everything is bang on.

As Pea says, as pertains tuning each P-Rod may be a law unto itself. Given their multiple factory power adjustments, pumping up the power further complicates the tuning puzzle. Thankfully you can't find a better platform for monkeying than Crosman/Benjamin PCPs.

Here are my testing notes relating to pumping up my stock P-Rod from its maxed-out factory power adjustments, to 19+ foot pounds-

18.1 FX, power maxed-out, 3150 PSI, 20 shot powerband- Low= 623, High= 662, ES= 39, SD= 11, Average= 649 FPS/16.9 foot pounds.
18.1 FX, TP drilled to .091”, 3150 PSI, 16 shot powerband- Low= 674, High= 704, ES= 30, SD= 10, Average= 691 FPS/19.2 foot pounds.

1707157361459.png
 
Thanks guys!
You've got my head spinning now.....I appreciate all the input.

Just don't want to lose sight of my original idea to "detune" it down to sub 12 fpe for FT legal use.
Not looking to wring max power out of this one.
i bought one just for this. Accurate out to 35yds plenty with JSB 14.3gr. I did throw a reg in it as I have not learned how to tune the marauders yet and I like to not have to hassle with fill range, fill to max and shoot. Easier and less stress for me right now.
 
I go back and forth on the use of regulators but in the end they are better. Pros and cons to everything it seems.

Shot to shot regulators give the shooter the same feel every time, which is key to repeatability and repeatability is key to winning matches.

Flip side to that is regulators have reliability issues and can fail at the worst time. But if a shooter knows how to service his/her own power plant then it’s no real issue imo.

Although regulators can give higher shot counts they tend to take up more air space inside the air cylinder. They still have a full and re fill pressure point like a non regulated gun. Just at different pressures usually.

So it might be good to start for some shooters with out a regulator saving money but if he/she like their power plant might give reason to upgrade to a regulator at a later time.

Ronnie
 
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I go back and forth on the use of regulators but in the end they are better. Pros and cons to everything it seems.

Shot to shot regulators give the shooter the same feel every time, which is key to repeatability and repeatability is key to winning matches.

Flip side to that is regulators have reliability issues and can fail at the worst time. But if a shooter knows how to service his/her own power plant then it’s no real issue imo.

Although regulators can give higher shot counts they tend to take up more air space inside the air cylinder. They still have a full and re fill pressure point like a non regulated gun. Just at different pressures usually.

So it might be good to start for some shooters with out a regulator saving money but if he/she like their power plant might give reason to upgrade to a regulator at a later time.

Ronnie
In a PRECISION shot placement game ... THAT IS Field Target, Regulators in PCP rifles if one want to use his/her D.O.P.E. data and not fret where in the fill range pressure might be at is a MUST HAVE component.
 
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In a PRECISION shot placement game ... THAT IS Field Target, Regulators in PCP rifles if one want to use his/her D.O.P.E. data and not fret where in the fill range pressure might be at is a MUST HAVE component.
Like I said,

There are pros and cons to regulators. It’s been proven however that one can win without a regulator when competing with others that do have them. So not hyper critical!
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