Marking Yardage Numbers On Your Wheel For Field Target

[chasdicapua]

Once you've focused the scope in on a target at a particular distance, how do you know exactly where to mark it on your oversized wheel? Seems to me that so much can depend on the angle with which you are looking at the wheel. Any suggestions welcome.

 

[Guest]

I use the seam in my scope mounts to line up the yardage markings. Also the are a variety of pointers on the market that attatch to the scope or rail with a pin or thin piece of metal to line up with the wheel. Another option if there is a gap between the scope mounts you can wedge a piece of metal or plastic in there to use for a pointer.

 

[steppenwulf]

pointer makes it easy, but you still have to look at the pointer at the same angle each time. i push the scope away and read the pointer horizontally.

 

[JohnL57]

I have seen a lot of shooters use a piece of a nylon wire tire stuck in the seam of their scope rings-the pointed end helps with precision in reading yardages.

 

[sharroff]

I do the same as JohninMA. There is enough difference in 1 yard increments on my wheels that a pointer isn't needed.

 

[chasdicapua]

Thanks guys.

 

[125sniper]

I am trying to set up my wheel for field target and I was having the same problem so I went with a flat top so now I can see I'm at the same angle every time . IMGP1161 by myrideklx650, on Flickr IMGP1160 by myrideklx650, on Flickr IMGP1158 by myrideklx650, on Flickr IMGP1156 by myrideklx650, on Flickr IMGP1154 by myrideklx650, on Flickr IMGP1153 by myrideklx650, on Flickr

 

[AlliInLL]

Being very new to all this, and not having received my backorder (AAS510 from PA yet), which includes a scope, just what are you guys talking about? How do these wheels on the sides of the scopes work? What do they do?

 

[Michael]

I have a question as well. How does one determine the yardage matches the wheel?

Obviously you can use a rangefinder to determine the exact distance, but as far as the scope...

Do you simply make sure it is the clearest reticle and target? And, move your head around to make sure the reticle doesn't move (parallax)?

 

[125sniper]

It really doesn't matter what the distance is if your using the side wheel for distance . What matters is the point at which the scope is in perfect focus on the target you have a mark on the wheel that lines up with your marker that is over that mark on the wheel . As long as you know where your turret adjustment has to be when it hits that mark on the wheel thats all you need to know . you can just put 1,2,3,4,5,6 and so on on the wheel it doesn't have to be yards at all, and say it lands on 6 you need to know where to adjust your turret to make it hit dead center when the wheel lands on the 6 line . If your using your reticle and not adjusting your turrets you just have to know where on the reticle to aim at any given point on the wheel . you can make a cap sticker like this .. and instead of yardage numbers you can put a 6 next to the reticle . scroll down on this page and you can see the number 's . the numbers on the wheel match the numbers on the turret dial . I think this is a good way of doing it , Its the most efficient use of space . http://www.airgunforum.net/agf/index.php?showtopic=51358

 

[Guest]

"Michael"I have a question as well. How does one determine the yardage matches the wheel?

Obviously you can use a rangefinder to determine the exact distance, but as far as the scope...

Do you simply make sure it is the clearest reticle and target? And, move your head around to make sure the reticle doesn't move (parallax)?

For measuring I use a 150' tape measure. My range is relatively flat so i just lay it on the ground and run it out. I position the gun so the end of the barrel is at the beginning of the tape. Then I move my target to ten yards and get the clearest crispest picture I can with the scope. I mark the wheel and move out to eleven then twelve and so on. I mark from 10-20, then 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55 and few random ranges were I've found targets tend to be placed on the courses I shoot.

As for achieving the clearest picture the closer ranges with the scope I use right now, an Aeon 10-40x56 10-40yds snap in and out of focus well, but after that i have to play a bit to get the clearest resolution possible. My Nikko Sterling Diamond, which needs to be sent in for repair will focus well enough to 60yds that a target at 59 will be blurry.

While getting my ranging marks I also shoot to get the clicks needed for that specific range to be centered in the cross hairs and mark a piece of tape wrapped around my elevation knob accordingly.

 

[125sniper]

Allilnll Here is a video I found . The guy in the video has a focus ring on the front but the side wheel works the same . He looks down the scope and gets the target in perfect focus by turning the ring ,you do the same on a wheel , once he does that he gets up and looks at what numbers on the ring is lining up with the arrow he marked on the scope mark that tell tell him what that distance is to the target . Then he looks at his click chart and that tells him how to click his scopes turrets so the cross hairs are dead center at that distance . What chas is talking about is on the wheel where you make your distance line to mark your yardage if you just have a pointer as you move your head up and down the pointer will look like its above or below that line so he is not sure where to mark the wheel . I was having the same problem so I made something that has a flat surface a lot of people seem to use a credit card and cut it to fit and as long as you look at the card or flat object the same way every time thats where you make your mark on the taped wheel and thats how you line up the marks on the tape to the pointer you use .

. I'm new also and I'm finding thing out as I go and making the marks on the scope and knowing where to adjust the turrets is easy compared to being able to hold the gun on the target . The opening are so small right now I don't think I'm going to be able to knock any targets down .Its going to take a lot of practice .