FX Maverick, 1st or 2nd reg not to shoot below?

Hold cocking lever open, pull trigger and slowly close lever = safely decocked.
Let me add something to this, the key is to HOLD the lever until it's closed. FAILURE to do this will really mess over the gun if done quite often. Score the %$# out of the hammer and quite possible break some of the housing internally, photos available upon request. I bought a used Maverick that someone had done this to. FX was kind enough to send me replacement parts.
 
Also remember to not try to turn the power wheel while the gun is cocked. It will cause inconsistent velocity strings.
AND will destroy the power wheel in the process. Again if done too often.

Todays Pro tip...don't drop you gun on it's barrel, bad things happen, yeah it happened to me, fell off my table. :cry:
 
AND will destroy the power wheel in the process. Again if done too often.

Todays Pro tip...don't drop you gun on it's barrel, bad things happen, yeah it happened to me, fell off my table. :cry:
Bummer that stinks. I did the power wheel thing myself and it didn’t take much to mess it up. Got it all running great again though.
 
I have fired my Maverick with the cocking handle all the way back, it break itself and as far as i can tell do not release any air.
BUT ! ill still go with the hold lever and pull trigger and slowly ease forward on lever.

I really HATE the click ball for the Maverick power wheel, such a bad design that could have been made 100 % better with 1-2 second more machine time.
 
I have fired my Maverick with the cocking handle all the way back, it break itself and as far as i can tell do not release any air.
BUT ! ill still go with the hold lever and pull trigger and slowly ease forward on lever.

I really HATE the click ball for the Maverick power wheel, such a bad design that could have been made 100 % better with 1-2 second more machine time.
pop out your hammer and see if it's messed up yet, if you have done the wrong thing multiple times odds are it's scored, and an excellent possibility that the thin wall between the hammer and the cocking area is broken. Yes they could have put in a simple plunger but I'm not sure they had room. There is a reason to buy 100 3mm balls and use some grease.
 
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Hammer ( C83 ) i have not messed with, not quite sure how to get it out, i dont think it go out the back like the hanner weight.
But maybe ill take a look at that during the off season.

It is not often i have " slammed" the lever like that, but it have happened i have to admit.
Like some times i have put a slug in the single shot loader, but not flipped it in, resulting in a blank shot.

I am more inclined to fix FX mess regarding the ball, i think the spring hole is possible to drill a bit deeper and so replace ball with pin, of course with a rounded end.
But will have to make hole 5-6 mm deeper if possible, or pin will be just as wonky as the damn ball.
I do use plenty of grease there, a really fat one that's like OMG is this hardened / hard to get out of tube.

iu


WACKER® SILICONE PASTE P is a translucent, vaseline-like, relatively stiff, water repellent paste.
WACKER® SILICONE PASTE P coated parts exhibit excellent water repellent, resulting in a certain degree of protection
against corrosion.
WACKER® SILICONE PASTE P becomes softer when subjected to shear stress or other mechanical stress such as
kneading, which in many instances makes processing easier.
The pasty consistency is little affected by changes in temperature. The components of WACKER® SILICONE PASTE P are
on the positive lists of the following Regulations for food contact: Regulation (EU) No. 10/2011, Recommendation XV.
Silicones of the BfR (Federal Institute for Risk Assessment) and the FDA Code of Federal Regulations Title 21 § 175.3570
Lubricants with Incidental Food Contact.
 
Hammer ( C83 ) i have not messed with, not quite sure how to get it out, i dont think it go out the back like the hanner weight.
But maybe ill take a look at that during the off season.

It is not often i have " slammed" the lever like that, but it have happened i have to admit.
Like some times i have put a slug in the single shot loader, but not flipped it in, resulting in a blank shot.

I am more inclined to fix FX mess regarding the ball, i think the spring hole is possible to drill a bit deeper and so replace ball with pin, of course with a rounded end.
But will have to make hole 5-6 mm deeper if possible, or pin will be just as wonky as the damn ball.
I do use plenty of grease there, a really fat one that's like OMG is this hardened / hard to get out of tube.

iu


WACKER® SILICONE PASTE P is a translucent, vaseline-like, relatively stiff, water repellent paste.
WACKER® SILICONE PASTE P coated parts exhibit excellent water repellent, resulting in a certain degree of protection
against corrosion.
WACKER® SILICONE PASTE P becomes softer when subjected to shear stress or other mechanical stress such as
kneading, which in many instances makes processing easier.
The pasty consistency is little affected by changes in temperature. The components of WACKER® SILICONE PASTE P are
on the positive lists of the following Regulations for food contact: Regulation (EU) No. 10/2011, Recommendation XV.
Silicones of the BfR (Federal Institute for Risk Assessment) and the FDA Code of Federal Regulations Title 21 § 175.3570
Lubricants with Incidental Food Contact.
Not a fan of silicon much of anything except for as a sealant. I've seen what it does to anodizing, but this is a huge topic of disagreement. I'll use white grease or even bearing grease, it's just to hold that darn ball in place as it tries to escape. A small spring loaded plunger would be ideal but not sure there is enough room, I do have a broken block I could mess with, from a pervious owner doing the wrong thing with the cocking handle. Plus one spare that FX sent me.