FX Maverick sprung a big leak

[HogKiller]

Yeah it’s true any airgun will need service and it’s best to figure it out yourself. Really there isn’t a whole lot to the Maverick platform. I guess I just need to try again sometime. Got frustrated once and hate that little reg. lol. I ordered lighted magnifiers and spent 1 hour getting that tiny o ring back into the bottom of the reg. Didn’t even want to try the one in the gun body. I guess it’s just some guns are much easier than others. I probably need to get it down then would be a breeze.

Today's pro tip, I'm not a pro but I pretend a lot. First those little suckers are N90's so they are brittle as heck. Heat them up in boiling water to soften them a touch, put a dash of Mobil One or any quality synthetic on it and try to slip it on, you will break a few, they're cheap if you buy them in bulk, the first one goes on, then the second finally makes it, give them a touch more lube, heck if it moves, lube it, if it doesn't move, lube it anyway. DO not use N70's you'll be replacing them, a lot. I think XF has updated their drawings, I forget offhand. Oh and put the adjuster in upside down on the top housing, it's larger and easier to to handle to get the little beech 0-ring on.

 

[PasadenaMike]

ok, I'm reading this thread getting nervous... my Maverick has been great for 2 years, but where should I put silicone oil exactly ?? Anyone have a link to a general maintenance guide?

Don’t be nervous lol. one or two drops of silicone in the fill port before you fill the gun. That’s it. I do it every once in a while

 

[stovepipe]

Airguns need lube. It should be common practice to put a drop of pure silicone oil in everytime you fill up. It keeps orings lubed. If you have not mobed the regulator in more than 3 months and decide, I am changing things, without any previous lubrication it will more than likely leak at the regulator. It is physics, nothing more. I only buy used and trade. If it is under warranty, send it in, but dont complain aboit it, if you have not educated yourself on the product. I currently own the following;
F/X Impact M3
Daystate Delta Wolf
Airmaks Katran
Reximex Meta
Evanix Rainstorm
I am not afraid to work on any of them, as long as my time permits.

I'd like to try putting a drop of silicone oil in the fill nipple of my maverick every time I top off the tank, like you said. What I'm hoping it will do is keep the o-ring around the base of the amp reg piston oiled and also keep the o-ring that the top of the piston slides through oiled as well. The idea is that a constant dose of silicone oil on these points where the piston is sliding on every shot cycle, oring to metal contact, will reduce friction and wear on those particular o-rings and allow smoother operation of the piston.

Exactly what silicone oil product do you recommend?

The reason I ask is because I've read other posts where people say silicon oil did bad things -- like actually sieze metal to metal parts. I figure they must have used the wrong silicon oil product. Something sold as silicon oil only means it has silicon in it, but they aren't all the same. I don't want to use the wrong stuff. So what silicone oil product should I buy? Thanks.

stovepipe

 

[stovepipe]

Today's pro tip, I'm not a pro but I pretend a lot. First those little suckers are N90's so they are brittle as heck. Heat them up in boiling water to soften them a touch, put a dash of Mobil One or any quality synthetic on it and try to slip it on, you will break a few, they're cheap if you buy them in bulk, the first one goes on, then the second finally makes it, give them a touch more lube, heck if it moves, lube it, if it doesn't move, lube it anyway. DO not use N70's you'll be replacing them, a lot. I think XF has updated their drawings, I forget offhand. Oh and put the adjuster in upside down on the top housing, it's larger and easier to to handle to get the little beech 0-ring on.

The easiest time I had getting the little N90's to go onto the set screw was by actually making sure the set screw and the o-rings and my hands were completely clean and dry. I put the set screw into the housing upside down onto the table top like you did. Then position the o-ring perfectly centered on the end of the set screw and, with your thumb and index finger just push and they should just ROLL (not slide) on and drop into their groove.

I broke a couple of them trying to use lube and trying to slide them on, but I really just ended up stretching the heck out of them.

The dry ROLL on method worked great for me. Cheers.

stovepipe

 

[stovepipe]

Don’t be nervous lol. one or two drops of silicone in the fill port before you fill the gun. That’s it. I do it every once in a while

There are LOTS of silicone oil products -- some thicker than others, some with PTFE in them, etc., etc. EXACTLY which silicone product do you recommend for putting on the fill port before airing up the gun?

stovepipe

 

[HogKiller]

The easiest time I had getting the little N90's to go onto the set screw was by actually making sure the set screw and the o-rings and my hands were completely clean and dry. I put the set screw into the housing upside down onto the table top like you did. Then position the o-ring perfectly centered on the end of the set screw and, with your thumb and index finger just push and they should just ROLL (not slide) on and drop into their groove.

I broke a couple of them trying to use lube and trying to slide them on, but I really just ended up stretching the heck out of them.

The dry ROLL on method worked great for me. Cheers.

stovepipe

Heating them reduces the scrap rate by 50% and the frustration rate by 75%. Yeah, the little suckers do roll on, wasn't getting that far into the weeds. Thankfully they are cheap when bought in bulk.

 

[stovepipe]

Heating them reduces the scrap rate by 50% and the frustration rate by 75%. Yeah, the little suckers do roll on, wasn't getting that far into the weeds. Thankfully they are cheap when bought in bulk.

I guess I got a bit lucky with the scrap rate -- broke a few using oil, but none with the roll-on method. The frustration rate for me goes up to 100% as soon as I realize I'm about to play with tiny o-rings

stovepipe

 

[stovepipe]

ok, I'm reading this thread getting nervous... my Maverick has been great for 2 years, but where should I put silicone oil exactly ?? Anyone have a link to a general maintenance guide?

Two guys on this thread, so far, advocate putting a drop of silicone oil on the fill port before topping off your Maverick with air. Neither one of them has specified exactly what silicone oil product they use. To me it sounds like advice that should be avoided -- at least until a specific product is advised.

stovepipe

 

[HogKiller]

Two guys on this thread, so far, advocate putting a drop of silicone oil on the fill port before topping off your Maverick with air. Neither one of them has specified exactly what silicone oil product they use. To me it sounds like advice that should be avoided -- at least until a specific product is advised.

stovepipe

From personal experience, silicon oil and anodized aluminum mating surfaces don't mix, I would be very cautious putting a non-lubricant in my gun. I'd love to know where the use of silicone oil in air guns came from and more importantly why. I can guess but it's only a guess, just to keep the o-rings coated with something.

 

[HogKiller]

I guess I got a bit lucky with the scrap rate -- broke a few using oil, but none with the roll-on method. The frustration rate for me goes up to 100% as soon as I realize I'm about to play with tiny o-rings

stovepipe

Here is my theory, and it seems to be working out in practice. Those two little hard suckers are being twisted when inserted and or adjusted, the next little sucker inside the housing (brass) is subject to the piston/valve going up and down, down in the body, that one that is a bear to get out also has that part going up and down, I'm not being very descriptive and I apologize my caffeine levels are dangerously low. Basically, if it moves it get a wee bit of M1, which will last a long long time. I do it during assembly, if not using it works, super they are slippery little suckers anyway but after assembly a light wipe just makes for less friction/wear. Ditto for the Bellevilles.

 

[stovepipe]

From personal experience, silicon oil and anodized aluminum mating surfaces don't mix, I would be very cautious putting a non-lubricant in my gun. I'd love to know where the use of silicone oil in air guns came from and more importantly why. I can guess but it's only a guess, just to keep the o-rings coated with something.

Thanks for your input here HogKiller. That clears up the question of "Should I let silicone oil get into my Maverick's air chambers?". At least it clears it up for me. I won't be doing that. I've never used silicone oil on my Mav. I do like the general idea of being able to put a drop of "something" on the fill port before topping off the air once in a while if it was going to make the regulator happier. If/when it ever migrated its way to the valve, that would be OK with me too. If you think of some kind of oil that would actually work well that way, let me know -- I'm daring enough to try it.

stovepipe

 

[Jim B]

Thanks for your input here HogKiller. That clears up the question of "Should I let silicone oil get into my Maverick's air chambers?". At least it clears it up for me. I won't be doing that. I've never used silicone oil on my Mav. I do like the general idea of being able to put a drop of "something" on the fill port before topping off the air once in a while if it was going to make the regulator happier. If/when it ever migrated its way to the valve, that would be OK with me too. If you think of some kind of oil that would actually work well that way, let me know -- I'm daring enough to try it.

stovepipe

I am with you on not putting anything in my fill port! My Maverick is only 6 weeks old, so no experimenting here!!

 

[stovepipe]

Here is my theory, and it seems to be working out in practice. Those two little hard suckers are being twisted when inserted and or adjusted, the next little sucker inside the housing (brass) is subject to the piston/valve going up and down, down in the body, that one that is a bear to get out also has that part going up and down, I'm not being very descriptive and I apologize my caffeine levels are dangerously low. Basically, if it moves it get a wee bit of M1, which will last a long long time. I do it during assembly, if not using it works, super they are slippery little suckers anyway but after assembly a light wipe just makes for less friction/wear. Ditto for the Bellevilles.

I understand. The Mav is the only PCP rifle I own and have ever owned. I have a 3-D image of the AMP regulator permanently engrained in my head. So you use Mobile 1 oil, or are you talking about the grease (the red stuff)?

I think the thing that kills the little o-rings on the set screw (during use of the gun, not during assembly) is the fact that FX says it's OK to adjust the pressure (increase) with the rifle pressurized. At some point I just decided to always degass the rifle before making any reg pressure adjustments. The little o-rings on the set screw seem to be pretty happy about that -- I haven't had a leak there since.

The o-rings that are in direct contact with the piston (the one around the piston base and the one inside the reg body) move with every shot cycle. Even with good lubrication those things having to slide against metal under such high pressure -- well, it's amazing they last for any length of time. By the way, are those N90's (you said FX changed some o-ring specs)? So you lube those two with Mobile 1 grease and they stay good for a long time?

The last time I messed with the reg (I only have one reg) I just used silicone grease and greased the whole damn mess like a trailer hitch. It hasn't leaked since then, but maybe the Mobile 1 is better?

I'm reading my own post and it's kind of rambly -- like I don't have a point. Oh well, I'll let it stand.

stovepipe

 

[HogKiller]

I understand. The Mav is the only PCP rifle I own and have ever owned. I have a 3-D image of the AMP regulator permanently engrained in my head. So you use Mobile 1 oil, or are you talking about the grease (the red stuff)?

I think the thing that kills the little o-rings on the set screw (during use of the gun, not during assembly) is the fact that FX says it's OK to adjust the pressure (increase) with the rifle pressurized. At some point I just decided to always degass the rifle before making any reg pressure adjustments. The little o-rings on the set screw seem to be pretty happy about that -- I haven't had a leak there since.

The o-rings that are in direct contact with the piston (the one around the piston base and the one inside the reg body) move with every shot cycle. Even with good lubrication those things having to slide against metal under such high pressure -- well, it's amazing they last for any length of time. By the way, are those N90's (you said FX changed some o-ring specs)? So you lube those two with Mobile 1 grease and they stay good for a long time?

The last time I messed with the reg (I only have one reg) I just used silicone grease and greased the whole damn mess like a trailer hitch. It hasn't leaked since then, but maybe the Mobile 1 is better?

I'm reading my own post and it's kind of rambly -- like I don't have a point. Oh well, I'll let it stand.

stovepipe

Mobil 1 the oil, the lightest stuff you can get. I've put it in the back of pellets, trying to get it to explode/diesel, nope nothing, the flash point is way beyond what an air gun can generate from what I've read. I lube everything with Mobil 1, any good synthetic will do I just happen to have a bunch of M1 laying around, I use it in my embroidery machines, I use to have to lube them daily/weekly, now it's...monthly. I use it in my pew-pews, even on Bolt Carrier Groups, zero issues. If it moves, it gets a smidge of M1. I can definitely say it has ZERO effect on pellet speed. I shot 10 shotes without it and 10 with pellets rubbed in it, zero difference. I'm willing to put a drop in one of my Mavericks but I'm pretty sure it's a waste of time but it'll be interesting to see what happens, I can always strip it down and take it out but....everything inside already has some anyway. I sound like a bloody commercial.

 

[Jay308]

Thanks for your input here HogKiller. That clears up the question of "Should I let silicone oil get into my Maverick's air chambers?". At least it clears it up for me. I won't be doing that. I've never used silicone oil on my Mav. I do like the general idea of being able to put a drop of "something" on the fill port before topping off the air once in a while if it was going to make the regulator happier. If/when it ever migrated its way to the valve, that would be OK with me too. If you think of some kind of oil that would actually work well that way, let me know -- I'm daring enough to try it.

stovepipe

I read a post on here about someone that did oil when filling, but on a tear down they discovered the silicone just stayed near the fill port and did not migrate, vaporize into the gun.

 

[coastal drifter]

FX Maverick Reassembly - FX Masterclass

FX Maverick Reassembly - FX Masterclass

www.airgun101.com

lots of info to reseal and videos to help determine what needs replacing

 

[stovepipe]

Mobil 1 the oil, the lightest stuff you can get. I've put it in the back of pellets, trying to get it to explode/diesel, nope nothing, the flash point is way beyond what an air gun can generate from what I've read. I lube everything with Mobil 1, any good synthetic will do I just happen to have a bunch of M1 laying around, I use it in my embroidery machines, I use to have to lube them daily/weekly, now it's...monthly. I use it in my pew-pews, even on Bolt Carrier Groups, zero issues. If it moves, it gets a smidge of M1. I can definitely say it has ZERO effect on pellet speed. I shot 10 shotes without it and 10 with pellets rubbed in it, zero difference. I'm willing to put a drop in one of my Mavericks but I'm pretty sure it's a waste of time but it'll be interesting to see what happens, I can always strip it down and take it out but....everything inside already has some anyway. I sound like a bloody commercial.

It's funny that in my last post I said my Mav hasn't leaked since I greased up the regulator like a trailer hitch (silicone grease), and this morning I discover that I have a slow leak. Oh well, at least it's a SLOW leak -- doesn't keep me from using it. So now I'm looking at rebuilding my reg.

I have some Mobil 1 5w-30 (synthetic, of course) in the garage. I'm thinking I'll use that on the regulator instead of silicone grease. It's going to be kind of weird to me using oil in a place that I would normally think grease would be best. But now that I think about it, I've seen lots of mechanical things where grease was applied and the grease just got pushed away, whereas oil would have a chance to "migrate" back to where it's needed.

stovepipe

 

[HogKiller]

It's funny that in my last post I said my Mav hasn't leaked since I greased up the regulator like a trailer hitch (silicone grease), and this morning I discover that I have a slow leak. Oh well, at least it's a SLOW leak -- doesn't keep me from using it. So now I'm looking at rebuilding my reg.

I have some Mobil 1 5w-30 (synthetic, of course) in the garage. I'm thinking I'll use that on the regulator instead of silicone grease. It's going to be kind of weird to me using oil in a place that I would normally think grease would be best. But now that I think about it, I've seen lots of mechanical things where grease was applied and the grease just got pushed away, whereas oil would have a chance to "migrate" back to where it's needed.

stovepipe

I'm just a fan of the stuff, it stays slippery for a long long time. In all honesty, I probably wouldn't use it in a dusty environment like a desert but....I don't live in one and I'm not crawling around in the dirt, there is no one around to help me up. I bought a whole bunch of really cute little bottles with fine needles on them, for arts & crafts but they work great for getting just a tiny bit of oil in small spaces, regs are just a little bit on your fingers and wiping everything. Like I said, if it moves, it gets lubed. And for the smart asses out there, no not the turrets of your scope, unless it's an Element, then well, you have to. Yeah that's what Element told me when they froze up.

 

[Peashooter]

you guys talking about silicone oils, reminded me, i have stopped buying those.
Not that they are not needed, buy you see i have plenty of them and in a range of viscosities, CUZ it is the same oil that is used in RC car shock absorbers.

So i have like 5 different viscosities to choose from, from water like to OMG thick