Maybe I was too optimistic for my Taipan .177 Standard accuracy?

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One thing to note about the Taipan regulator is that it won't go as low as a HUMA, at least not without rearranging some of the washers.

Around 115-120 is as low as I've been able to get a Taipan regulator, using bellevilles in the OEM configuration. This is also in a .177 and only using a chronograph to determine where it seems to start to come off the reg.
 
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There are youtubes, I found them by searching on youtube for "Taipan regulator". You have to pull the regulator out the back of the airtube (adjusting my P35 is done from the front of the airtube) and then turn a brass adjuster screw within the regulator. One of the youtubes I watched was on putting in the Huma regulator. It has easily visible markings to show you the regulator setting (probably approximate). The Taipan does not have that. If you do this a lot and have a regulator tester the Taipan is probably fine. But if you don't have a tester and have to take the gun apart every time you want to try another adjustment, the scale on the Huma seems like it would be really helpful. But even then what you really want is a velocity and you have to guess what regulator setting will give you that. I'm cheap so I would probably just mess with the Taipan regulator. You may not need to replace any O-rings to do this. The videos did not mention doing it and the O-ring at the back of the air tube on the Taipan look pretty robust.
 
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Emu said:
I share with you a group of 6 shots at 70 yards with my Vulcan 3. 177 Cal.

It was made with JSB 8.44 grain.

Notwithstanding is not what many people do on these days, try the following:

1.- get your back be fully rested on something that can't move;

2.- rise (if you are right handed) your right elbow and keep it fully rested;

3.- get rest of the rifle ar the adequate height;

4.- hold with your left hand the forearm as firm as possible to avoid movement at shot.

That is the way I get the very best performance on my shooting.

I do not know the speed yet but my guess is that is close to 1100 fps. I will measure it and share in a new post:

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Where can i find the "pen/calipers ? i have been looking but never found , thanks
 
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Somethimes the ES can actually improve going even lower on spring tension. I know it sound odd, as normally the closer the hammer spring setting is to the max speed of the gun the tighter the ES is. That is probably not an option in your case, if the gun shoots to fast. If you are really worried about the speed spread, one option is to shoot trough the chronograph, (if you have a chronograph which allow that) at the bench. And then see if it makes any difference on the target, on thouse shots being off. If you have not tried it, I would still try with less hammer spring force, and go all the way down covering different speeds in between 800, and 900. Even the groups open up at 900, they might improve again in 850-800 range.
 
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If lowering speed any further does not help, I agree the best option is probably to lower the reg. You can test the gun at lower pressures with an extra fill bottle (or use the one you have), filled to maybe 110 bar as a start, and let the fill hose being attached to the gun. As the pressure in the gun reach that level, it will stay there as long as the fill bottle feeds new air. Then you can let some air out of the tank, and try 5 bar lower again. Then you do not have to open up the gun, but will know if it is worth doing so later.
 
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tor47 said:
Somethimes the ES can actually improve going even lower on spring tension. I know it sound odd, as normally the closer the hammer spring setting is to the max speed of the gun the tighter the ES is. That is probably not an option in your case, if the gun shoots to fast. If you are really worried about the speed spread, one option is to shoot trough the chronograph, (if you have a chronograph which allow that) at the bench. And then see if it makes any difference on the target, on thouse shots being off. If you have not tried it, I would still try with less hammer spring force, and go all the way down covering different speeds in between 800, and 900. Even the groups open up at 900, they might improve again in 850-800 range.
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I've started in the 750's and gone as high as 960. I believe the regulator is going to have to be changed for things to work the way I want. I've never taken one out but I am debating on doing just that. I was thinking that if I have to mess with a regulator at all I would just get a HUMA and install it since it appears to be good quality and accurate and easily adjustable in the future.
 
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It doesn't look like taking the regulator out is too bad. Degass, take the air tube off, and then either put a screw into the regulator and pull it or just add a little air to the chamber to push it out (I would do the latter). I would probably try setting the Taipan regulator at the minimum and see where your velocity and accuracy and ES are. It may not go low enough to do what you want and then you know you need a Huma. Or it may work great. Or it could go low enough but accuracy and/or ES could still be an issue. The fact that the Taipan is a high quality gun makes me think the regulator might work well at a little different setting. If you pull the regulator you can also pull two screws and take the regulator apart to see if there is anything obvious.
 
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JimD said:
It doesn't look like taking the regulator out is too bad. Degass, take the air tube off, and then either put a screw into the regulator and pull it or just add a little air to the chamber to push it out (I would do the latter). I would probably try setting the Taipan regulator at the minimum and see where your velocity and accuracy and ES are. It may not go low enough to do what you want and then you know you need a Huma. Or it may work great. Or it could go low enough but accuracy and/or ES could still be an issue. The fact that the Taipan is a high quality gun makes me think the regulator might work well at a little different setting. If you pull the regulator you can also pull two screws and take the regulator apart to see if there is anything obvious.
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To get the reg out I unscrew the plug on the fill end and push it out with a ramrod from a muzzleloader leaning in the corner of my gun room. Anything relatively clean and of a sufficient diam to not flex (small diam section of pvc pipe, wooden spoon with long handle, etc) will work. I've seen the video where he pressurizes the tube and "catches" the regulator in a blanket. Seems sketchy to me, too much pressure and that regulator becomes aa projectile with a pretty decent cross section.

I say relatively clean b/c you don't want to introduce a bunch of particulate into the air tube that will cause problems for you later.
 
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KyPop said:
I've started in the 750's and gone as high as 960. I believe the regulator is going to have to be changed for things to work the way I want. I've never taken one out but I am debating on doing just that. I was thinking that if I have to mess with a regulator at all I would just get a HUMA and install it since it appears to be good quality and accurate and easily adjustable in the future.
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I agree the huma reg is usually pretty close. If you follow the guideline on how to adjust it, you can probably come within +/- 5 bar of the desired setting.
I did chrony the numbers on my gun, with an external inline reg first, after installing a huma reg set at 110 bar. The numbers seemed to match when I got the huma reg set at same setting. Here is my numbers as I recorded them, if you need them as reference:
This is max speed, where the gun waste air with further hammer setting. All recorded with jsb 10.4 grain pellets.
75 bar vmax ca 850 fps
80 bar vmax ca 875 fps
85 bar vmax ca 905 fps
90 bar vmax ca 926 fps
have no numbers for 95 bar, but would guess they would be around 940
100 bar vmax ca 964 fps.
Your gun will probably not be exactly as mine, as they are not all equal. The gun need offcorse to be adjusted lower than max speed to be accurate, and not waste air.
My gun is currently setup with 90 bar, and adjusted to shoot around 850 fps, (your gun might be more accurat at diffent speed and pressure)
The huma reg comes with its own plenum spacer, which actually is bigger than the stock one, so I do not know how much different the speed will be compared to stock reg, set at same setting.
 
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I installed a Huma reg in an FX Royale, so my experience is limited to one. I found that the pressure scale is an approximation at best, and I have read of similar experiences. And if you want a properly balanced tune, you will have likely have to adjust it at least twice, whether you have a reg tester or not, because you want a certain tune, and the reg and hammer tension have to be adjusted to that goal. Frankly, I think the Taipan reg is a better and more robust design than the Huma, so I would be inclined to work with it.
 
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Mickshooter said:
Bullpups are definitely a different animal to shoot than a long gun or strictly bench guns like the fx Royale's. Some people just cant shoot the bullpups well and others love them. How did the boy's at UAG's do with comparing to another in .177? Or can they not shoot another one because it would be considered used? Just asking.
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They didn't compare it to any other I don't think. They shot some groups at 890 fps and 35 yards indoors with JSB 10.3s that were OK but they weren't using my pellets. In hindsight, I wish I would have sent them my pellets to try.
 
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beerthief said:
Where can i find the "pen/calipers ? i have been looking but never found , thanks
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Buy an Aigun Technology rifle and the pen caliper is included.

If you do so, then you will have one of the best air rifles in the market and your pen caliper.

But if you are only interested in the caliper for sure you can find a more afordable option.
 
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Emu said:
Buy an Aigun Technology rifle and the pen caliper is included.

If you do so, then you will have one of the best air rifles in the market and your pen caliper.

But if you are only intereses in the caliper for sure you can find a more afordable option.
Click to expand...
Thanks that is a $35 item on Amazon.com
 
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To clarify, I do have a huma regtester for my gun. Without it you probably will miss +-5 bar (maybe more) adusting it without. I have done it on a FX bobcat, and I agree you seldom get it exactly where you want it on first try, without taking the gun apart several times. Especially if you try to replicate a pressure being tested before hand.It is important you follow the guidelines when adjusting it.
Qoute from huma air:
Decrease the pressure : just turn the setscrew clockwise to the pressure you desire. Never turn the setscrew past the lowest or highest mark on the scale! Increase the pressure: this is slightly different; turn the setscrew anti-clockwise until you are about 10 bar ABOVE the pressure you want, then turn the setscrew back (clockwise) to the pressure you want. (This is necessary to eliminate the movement in the treads) Never turn the setscrew mark past the lowest or highest pressure mark on the scale.
If you forget to adjust beyond the pressure when going upward, and then adjust down, you will probably not get it right.


Without a regtester, you basically has to use a chronograph to know where you are. But if you do not mind taking the gun aparat several times, it can be donne. A reg tester can add to the cost, but if you know someone which have one you can borrow, it probably gets easier.
 
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Seems to me, there is a hard focus on reg set point in this discussion, rather than than a balanced tune of the rifle. If you know the velocity range you seek, then the HST and reg setting are variables, and they will end up where the need to be to attain the tune. If you end up with a balanced tune that yields the highest consistency in the usable shot count, do you really care where the reg is set?
 
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