Maybe not worth the money and effort

[Deleted member 46449]

I'm still spending time researching and learning about these airguns I have. After considerable time spent researching refurbing, modding, and improving the 1377, I'm having second thoughts. I first looked into putting a red dot on it. I found that is going to be kind of costly. Then, I thought I'd just change the sights. I found a nice front site for a reasonable amount, but so far every rear sight worth a darned is proving to cost about half what a brand new 1377 costs. I'm not sure if I'm just looking in the wrong place, but any replacement grips and/or pump handle I found would cost more than half of a new 1377,,,,, or some other gun.

So, unless somebody can point me to parts and pieces that cost a lot less than what I'm finding, I'm going to resign the 1377 to casual plinking in the garage as it is. It seems to be holding air just fine so maybe there is no need to worry about the seals and O-rings. I'll just kill some paper in the garage and have a little fun with it.

Now, I'll turn my attention to the Mod 25. I haven't shot it yet. I'm going to clean it up thoroughly prior to running any pellets through it. Since I've gone to the trouble and expense of getting chamber oil and Pellgunoil I'll wait till they get here to do the cleanup.

If any of you guys with a Mod 25 know of any worthwhile additions for the gun, holler.

 

[Sqwirl57]

You don't need either chamber oil or Pellgun oil for your 25. Pull some patches through the barrel until they come out clean and then you're done cleaning for a long time.

 

[airgunner1042]

Can get a very economical and decent red dot on Amazon for less than $40.00.

 

[Moog]

I bought my 2240 with the full intention of doing mods to it. Like you I did a lot of research on the pistol and after market parts. For me it was really worth it. I have the gun set up the way I like it and it shoots great. It's a pistol I'll never get rid of. Just like your 1377 if a seal goes bad these guns are easy to work on so I can replace the part. That's why it's worth the investment because you can keep these guns shooting. You don't need to do all the mods at once. Do it little by little and you will also get new ideas and learn more about the pistol by taking your time.

 

[Pale_Rider]

If your main goal for a modded 1377 is performance then I would just buy a Zoraki HP. For $240 you get a well built pump pistol that has adjustable sights, adjustable trigger and comfortable target grip. The Zoraki will put out the same or more power than a modded 1377 and it will do it in 3-4 pumps instead of 20 pumps with the 1377.

If you’re crazy about modding a gun and making it unique then the 1377 route is a better choice. There’s a plethora of aftermarket parts and countless ways the 1377 can be configured. No customizing the zoraki. Buying the Zoraki is a shortcut to getting a powerful, accurate pumper in a compact, well built package

 

[Deleted member 46449]

Oh, I'm sure the 1377 can be made to be a really nice shooter. I'm just weighing the cost of doing all of the modding and refurbishing against whay I'd have when I got done. I'm sure it would be fun, so to speak, to do all that. It would be kind of like building a nice street machine out of a factory stock automobile. I'm just not sure if I want to get that far into it and spend that kind of money. From what I found, it appears that it would be really easy to wrap up a couple of hundred dollars or even more.

legionair, You've suggested something I might be more inclined to jump on. First off, I have no idea what the future will bring for me as far as how many and what types of airguns I'll own. I have to remember that I sold off a small boatload of traditional firearms because of medical issues and the fact we moved into town and I don't have a good place to shoot. So, to think I'll be buying lots of guns probably isn't realistic. Secondly, right now I'm not all that enthused about owning any CO2 or PCP guns. I'm a lot more interested in pump or springer guns. I thought I had turned up every make and model there was, but the Zorak is a new one on me. I just found a couple of sites with them for sale. I looked at the specs and that is an interesting gun, for sure. 575 fps in 4 pumps is fairly impressive. I got it bookmarked.

airgunner1042, I found a few red dots in that price range, but then I'd also need a mount to act as rails for the red dot. SO, with taxes and shipping involved, I'd tie up over 50 bucks really quickly. If I was to dump another 50 bucks on the gun, I'd certainly then want to replace all the seals so the gun would should the best it can. Not too costly, but another $20, give or take, in repairs. If I did all that, I'd really want to replace the grips and pump handle. And there ya go, I'd have way over $100 tied up in a 1377. I could have a .177 cal Mod 25 delivered to the front door for $110. Or there are a few other decent guns I've seen in the $150 to $250 range that wouldn't need all the extra $$$ spent on them. It's not that the 1377 isn't worth modding, but is it right for me? That's what I'm weighing right now.

Sqwirlfugger57, what oil to use, where to use it, and how often to use it is apparently one of the greatest debates in history. LOL! I've read a LOT of posts on forums all over the 'Net, contacted gun oil manufacturers, and read as many different air gun manuals as I could. Below is what I finally got back from Break Free CLP. Who are you going to believe?

"Thanks for reaching out! It may actually be easier to list the things that you shouldn't use CLP on:

Anything powdercoated
Any type of Nickel coating
Any Parkerized coating
Any chrome finishes

I did confirm with the head of our CLP division that you're okay to use CLP on seals/O-rings, rubber is good to go. However, they did note that you should probably avoid getting it into the air piston, as compressed air and oil does not play well. Please don't hesitate to reach out with any questions!"

 

[Hateful McNasty]

By model 25 you mean a hatsan 25 break barrel? I shoot one i got gifted to me and cant complain. Ended up better then i expected one to be.. i enjoy it and hard to put down . Heck i shot it today and posted a quick 20y try here.

 

[Sqwirl57]

There's nothing to lube on a Hatsan 25 aside from the piston seal which already comes well overlubed from the factory. If you want to lube the cocking arm a little you can but that isn't really necessary either. You're gun, you're choice though.

 

[Deleted member 46449]

By model 25 you mean a hatsan 25 break barrel? I shoot one i got gifted to me and cant complain. Ended up better then i expected one to be.. i enjoy it and hard to put down . Heck i shot it today and posted a quick 20y try here.

Yep, that's exactly what I meant by Mod 25. I'm looking forward to shooting it in the not too distant future. I first need to do a simple cleaning on it, then need to get whatever type of target I'm going to try ready to go. I've gotten quite a few really good ideas from guys on targets and traps so it's just a matter of me getting my act together and getting something set up. Depending on where you look, the Mod 25 is either praised or ignored. I'm thinking it'll be just fine for my not so expert can killing and paper punching.

There's nothing to lube on a Hatsan 25 aside from the piston seal which already comes well overlubed from the factory. If you want to lube the cocking arm a little you can but that isn't really necessary either. You're gun, you're choice though.

I'm sure that's quite true. I'm more than a little surprised that I can't get any response from HatsanUSA. I've sent four messages to them and haven't heard a word back. And if you try to use the manual as a guide for cleaning and lubing, you'll be at a loss. It only says:

Protect your air rifle with rifle oil periodically. It is very important and necessary to oil your air rifle when it is
• Not used for a long time
• Shot under dry & dusty conditions
• Used in wet weather (oil it before & after use in such a case)
• It is recommended to oil your air rifle every 250 shots.
• It is recommended to clean the barrel with a cleaning rod every 500 shots.

I asked them what exactly they meant by "rifle oil" and then also asked what cleaners and/or lubes they recommend, exactly how often to lube what parts, and exactly where it needs lube. So far, all is quiet on their front.

I also contacted the company I ordered the gun from. I'm still not mentioning their name because right now they will ship whatever I want to me in the State of Illness (Illinois). I don't want to foul that up. Here is what they responded with when I asked them about cleaning and oiling:

"Thank you for your email regarding your air gun. I am very sorry for the difficulties you have had trying to figure which gun oil to use. Unfortunately, we are not able to provide recommendations for products or provide any gunsmithing/technical help. If you click here, it will take you to all of the air gun oil we carry. If you read through the product reviews, you can see what people who used that gun had to say about it. There are also Q&As under all of the products. I apologize for any inconvenience or frustration this may have caused."

It's almost like nobody wants to express an opinion, or maybe even some facts, about exactly how to maintain the gun. Kind of weird.

 

[Hateful McNasty]

That hatsan service is somthing...

By setting up or targets to use i just use whatever.. most just cut cardboard a markers.. if i feel fancy may print somthing . Then cardboard and crayons are cheap and i can make up a heck of a lot to shoot at..lol...

Heres some hatsan 25 work. From 10m to 50y.. all factory irons/ open sighted.

I guess i deleted ones to really show off indoor 10m. Plenty i posted at gta.. like in share your groups thread.. plenty...lol

It was gifted to me and the guy said he could not do anything with it.. seems to do plenty good for me.

 

[Hateful McNasty]

Forgot to add... So far mine just needs barrle cleaning as i go.. you could take it down and check hatsans assembly work like sloppy lube job or nicked the piston seal if shooting issues pop up .

Treat it like any spring gun maybe a drop of oil on the hinge pin but thats should be few and far between if any.

Check screws for tightness or if any work loose as you shoot a bunch. Once you get it good and broken in it should be smooth sailing .

There pretty much maintenance free over all. Kinda if it aint broken dont fix it thing..

 

[badger5th]

Oh, I'm sure the 1377 can be made to be a really nice shooter. I'm just weighing the cost of doing all of the modding and refurbishing against whay I'd have when I got done. I'm sure it would be fun, so to speak, to do all that. It would be kind of like building a nice street machine out of a factory stock automobile. I'm just not sure if I want to get that far into it and spend that kind of money. From what I found, it appears that it would be really easy to wrap up a couple of hundred dollars or even more.

I have a spare shoulder stock that was part of a Crosman 2240 carbine conversion kit. It fits the 13xx series. PM me if interested, it's yours for free if you want it. May need to scrounge up a screw or two.
Regards,
Badger

 

[BeMeUp]

Center point reflex $40 PA or air gun depot look up picatinny barrel spacers paid like $9 might have been thru buck rail at least the gun shoots where I want it to

 

[Deleted member 46449]

That hatsan service is somthing...

By setting up or targets to use i just use whatever.. most just cut cardboard a markers.. if i feel fancy may print somthing . Then cardboard and crayons are cheap and i can make up a heck of a lot to shoot at..lol...

Heres some hatsan 25 work. From 10m to 50y.. all factory irons/ open sighted.

I guess i deleted ones to really show off indoor 10m. Plenty i posted at gta.. like in share your groups thread.. plenty...lol

It was gifted to me and the guy said he could not do anything with it.. seems to do plenty good for me.

Mo-Ron, I have fond memories of stepping out the back door, sticking a can on top of branch stuck in the ground, then firing away with whatever gun I wanted to use. Fast forward to today when I live in town and have neighbors that complain about the least little thing. We just had such and incident last week. My next door neighbor, who I like and get along with, mowed his yard and he blew some grass out onto the road when he mowed his little ditch. The neighbor two doors down from him reported him to the police and he was issued a written warning. Yes, it is illegal to blow grass onto any public thoroughfare. Yes, my neighbor knows that. No, the grass was neither thick and bulky or blown all over the road. Just a little on one side. THAT is why I'm conferenced with being sure I have a target/trap setup I can depend on. Heaven forbid a stray would hit somebody else's house or security fence. LOL! But yeah, the grouping you got from your Mod 25 is plenty good enough. And the best part is that you had fun doing it. 'Nuff said. LOL!

Forgot to add... So far mine just needs barrle cleaning as i go.. you could take it down and check hatsans assembly work like sloppy lube job or nicked the piston seal if shooting issues pop up .

Treat it like any spring gun maybe a drop of oil on the hinge pin but thats should be few and far between if any.

Check screws for tightness or if any work loose as you shoot a bunch. Once you get it good and broken in it should be smooth sailing .

There pretty much maintenance free over all. Kinda if it aint broken dont fix it thing..

I like the sounds of that. Do you ever rod the barrel? If so, do you put anything on the patches? If not, is there ever enough lead buildup to interfere with the rifling? Just curious.

On a similar note, I got this from Remington in response to my asking them about using Rem Oil on air guns. I was pretty specific about any corrosives in the product and was VERY specific about anything in the product damaging seals or O-rings.

"I would recommend Rem oil
Not petroleum based
Great for air guns"

Seems pretty specific and pretty certain to me. I'm sure it would never hold up in a court of law, but it is pretty straight forward. "Great for air guns" seems to say it all.

I have a spare shoulder stock that was part of a Crosman 2240 carbine conversion kit. It fits the 13xx series. PM me if interested, it's yours for free if you want it. May need to scrounge up a screw or two.
Regards,
Badger

Now, that is something I might actually be interested in. Since I no longer have a long gun to my name, I might enjoy throwing on a shoulder stock and doing some plinking. I'd be happy to make an offer for it, if you'd like. I haven't tried doing it yet, but when I'm done here I'll try and send you a private message or whatever they are called on this forum. Thanks for the offer.

Center point reflex $40 PA or air gun depot look up picatinny barrel spacers paid like $9 might have been thru buck rail at least the gun shoots where I want it to

I'll have to look for those spacers. I might be inclined to buy those to mount a Red Dot on. Thanks. And that's the biggest thing for me right now. I need to fire these guns to see if I can hit the side of a barn. LOL!

 

[Hateful McNasty]

For .177 i use strong harness thread.

Then make my own " patchworm"

In the loop part i can use scotch Brite pad cut to size as a scrubber patch and normal patching. I can also use like brass wool as well but itd got hard to find local anymore.

Main thing is a real strong cord/thread/string. You DONT want it to snap 1/2 way in a barrel ( trust me )..

 

[beerthief]

Can get a very economical and decent red dot on Amazon for less than $40.00.

new 1377 on amazon is $57 and a lot of people on here buy a $1500 gun and then put another $1500 in mods . MY own 1377 has over $100 in mod parts , yes it is worth it .

 

[Deleted member 46449]

For .177 i use strong harness thread.

Then make my own " patchworm"

In the loop part i can use scotch Brite pad cut to size as a scrubber patch and normal patching. I can also use like brass wool as well but itd got hard to find local anymore.

Main thing is a real strong cord/thread/string. You DONT want it to snap 1/2 way in a barrel ( trust me )..

HAH! Yeah, I fully understand that. That would be a lot like removing a maxi ball from a barrel after a bad burn of black powder.

new 1377 on amazon is $57 and a lot of people on here buy a $1500 gun and then put another $1500 in mods . MY own 1377 has over $100 in mod parts , yes it is worth it .

I guess it's safe to say that the jury is still out on exactly what I'm going to do with my 1377. For now, I'm just going to shoot it and see where it leads me.

 

[beerthief]

Just shoot the 1377 for what it is , have fun . and do not over pump it like some videos do . @ 10 meter target i use 3 to 5 pumps and H&N field target .177

 

[Deleted member 46449]

Just shoot the 1377 for what it is , have fun . and do not over pump it like some videos do . @ 10 meter target i use 3 to 5 pumps and H&N field target .177

I'm fairly certain I'll be shooting inside my garage to start with. That's only 20', give or take. I'm sure 3 pumps will suffice for punching paper in the garage.

 

[Simplemann]

Oh sorry about showing up late to this party I have a Beeman P-3 which Ive owned since 2005 and just recently got reacquainted again with it after deciding to not burn (explode) $$$ on 9mm ammo. Its a great shooter and almost zero maintenance. I just recently put it through the chronograph and it hasn't lost 1FPS since 2005 I'm amazed I don't own one but many say the P-17 is similar to the P-3 at a much lower price tag.