Mildots@powers

Humidity at 1000% sweating buckets already this morning. I just popped this test at 10m ( scope -0-@100) .

Using crosshair then each dot hold under at 3-6 &12 x to see how rach dot measures anyway outside poor holding due to slippery sweat hands look like 12x is near 1/4 of 6x and 6x is near 1/2 of 3x . Now how does that apply at any range say if 30,50 or 100y?
mildot@power.jpg
(3x i ran out of card for the last dot)
 
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I reckon the further down range you're gonna be shooting, the more of an impact your hold is going to have at a greater magnification - Meaning you should stick to 12x if you want the least amount of vertical shift at different distances. I'm personally using these charts on my phone for every one of my rifles and for every magnification, should the rifle have a variable scope on it... These help out a lot, but of course you have to manually map them out first.

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I reckon the further down range you're gonna be shooting, the more of an impact your hold is going to have at a greater magnification - Meaning you should stick to 12x if you want the least amount of vertical shift at different distances. I'm personally using these charts on my phone for every one of my rifles and for every magnification, should the rifle have a variable scope on it... These help out a lot, but of course you have to manually map them out first.

View attachment 373195
Cool, what app are you using?
 
Cool, what app are you using?
Its not an app at all, just basically an .HTML document that I scripted and designed to reflect as well as follow the DOPE data, which I gathered manually by taking shots at variably distant paper targets with my GAMO Big Cat 1000/Barricade/Varmint. You can open up the document in either Google Chrome, or in just about every other browser available to you out there.

Here's the link to the source code:
 
Another way to do this is to find out from the manufacturer what magnification results in the mil dots being a mil apart. Then you can scale the other magnifications from that. As you noticed, cutting the magnification in half makes the mil dots twice as far apart.

Doing all the math while trying to shoot a squirrel won't work for my brain. I like to put little sticky disks inside the flip up scope caps on my scopes. For a 4-16 scope, I include the dots up or down for hold over or under at both 6X (normal hunting magnification) and 16X (normal target shooting magnification). If I ever shoot hunter field target I will have a more detailed sheet like this with me but will probably only include 16X (although I don't like it for offhand shots, makes me look too shaky).
 
Another way to do this is to find out from the manufacturer what magnification results in the mil dots being a mil apart. Then you can scale the other magnifications from that. As you noticed, cutting the magnification in half makes the mil dots twice as far apart.

Doing all the math while trying to shoot a squirrel won't work for my brain. I like to put little sticky disks inside the flip up scope caps on my scopes. For a 4-16 scope, I include the dots up or down for hold over or under at both 6X (normal hunting magnification) and 16X (normal target shooting magnification). If I ever shoot hunter field target I will have a more detailed sheet like this with me but will probably only include 16X (although I don't like it for offhand shots, makes me look too shaky).
I pencle things down on the bench top .. then the rain or somthing washes or erases it away .. i do see the farther i go out the less it shows .. but close up if you fall between dots some it does help fine tune aimpoint to poi . So many times i find im a click too much or 1/2 click too little bit changing the power a 1/16-1/8-1/4, ect Turning up or down pulls it all in place so to say ..

In the end its just a thing you find to do on a boring day to play with..
 
Its not an app at all, just basically an .HTML document that I scripted and designed to reflect as well as follow the DOPE data, which I gathered manually by taking shots at variably distant paper targets with my GAMO Big Cat 1000/Barricade/Varmint. You can open up the document in either Google Chrome, or in just about every other browser available to you out there.

Here's the link to the source code:
Set the code up and ran it with Chrome, works great!
 
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Another way to do this is to find out from the manufacturer what magnification results in the mil dots being a mil apart. Then you can scale the other magnifications from that. As you noticed, cutting the magnification in half makes the mil dots twice as far apart.

Doing all the math while trying to shoot a squirrel won't work for my brain. I like to put little sticky disks inside the flip up scope caps on my scopes. For a 4-16 scope, I include the dots up or down for hold over or under at both 6X (normal hunting magnification) and 16X (normal target shooting magnification). If I ever shoot hunter field target I will have a more detailed sheet like this with me but will probably only include 16X (although I don't like it for offhand shots, makes me look too shaky).
Hi JimD,
With the magnification at 10X, one mil dot equals 3.6" at 100 yards. It's a little easier in metric, at 10X one mil equals 10cm at 100 meters. At constant magnification one mil will equal half, 5cm, the 100 meter value at 50 meters. Doubling the magnification will also halfs distance one mil dot equals. Think of this like zooming in with binoculars, the image gets bigger so each mil dot covers less distance. Sorry for using metric unit, but it's simpler for mil dot.

All mil dot reticles should be designed to this relationship, 1Mildot with 10X at 100yards is 3.6"

One MOA is 1.047 inches with 10X at 100yard, round that to 1 inch. MOA is easier in inches, as long as the MOA reticle doesn't have too many hashes for your preference.

The magnification effect only applies for a second focal plane scope. A first focal plane (FFP) scope scales the reticle with the magnification, one mil dot stays constant at a given range. One mil dot will always be 3.6" at 100yards for a FFP scope.
 
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Hi JimD,
With the magnification at 10X, one mil dot equals 3.6" at 100 yards. It's a little easier in metric, at 10X one mil equals 10cm at 100 meters. At constant magnification one mil will equal half, 5cm, the 100 meter value at 50 meters. Doubling the magnification will also halfs distance one mil dot equals. Think of this like zooming in with binoculars, the image gets bigger so each mil dot covers less distance. Sorry for using metric unit, but it's simpler for mil dot.

All mil dot reticles should be designed to this relationship, 1Mildot with 10X at 100yards is 3.6"

One MOA is 1.047 inches with 10X at 100yard, round that to 1 inch. MOA is easier in inches, as long as the MOA reticle doesn't have too many hashes for your preference.

The magnification effect only applies for a second focal plane scope. A first focal plane (FFP) scope scales the reticle with the magnification, one mil dot stays constant at a given range. One mil dot will always be 3.6" at 100yards for a FFP scope.
Yup, 20 clicks is 7" @1/10 mil @ 100.
 
Hi JimD,
With the magnification at 10X, one mil dot equals 3.6" at 100 yards. It's a little easier in metric, at 10X one mil equals 10cm at 100 meters. At constant magnification one mil will equal half, 5cm, the 100 meter value at 50 meters. Doubling the magnification will also halfs distance one mil dot equals. Think of this like zooming in with binoculars, the image gets bigger so each mil dot covers less distance. Sorry for using metric unit, but it's simpler for mil dot.

All mil dot reticles should be designed to this relationship, 1Mildot with 10X at 100yards is 3.6"

One MOA is 1.047 inches with 10X at 100yard, round that to 1 inch. MOA is easier in inches, as long as the MOA reticle doesn't have too many hashes for your preference.

The magnification effect only applies for a second focal plane scope. A first focal plane (FFP) scope scales the reticle with the magnification, one mil dot stays constant at a given range. One mil dot will always be 3.6" at 100yards for a FFP scope.
67 and still learning!
I've never owned a mil dot scope, but just aquired an MOA FFP, and really appreciating it.
I never connected mil-dot to being a measurement. I thought they were generic dots that could be used for reference points. The next thing you'll tell me, is that Duplex recticles centers are measured. Lol
 
I shot long range sniper comps where they had a stop sign next to the targets. Measure the 36" stop sign with your mildots and give the estimated range. Get close enough and you got bonus points. I followed up with my laser range finder before taking my shots. Pretty neat measuring tool. When I was the sniper for the swat team I had an excel spreadsheet with common sizes, mailbox, car wheel, house door, etc and used those sizes to formulate a list of mils and their ranges for a reference.
 
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This thread is the exact reason I went FFP on everything. Couldn't stand the changing ranging values on SFP scopes.
I would have agreed before reading this thread, SFP seems better for 100yard benchrest.
I did have to zoom out my FFP scope to measure the wind drift a few times shooting 100 benchrest at NAC earlier this year.

 
If you don't use max magnification on your scope much then just figuring the drops at lower powers is not a huge feat. I mainly run 5-6x for hunting but with a flat zero range there is not much need for hold over until after 50 yards. I only have FFP for the long range powder burners but SFP for airguns so when on the lower powers, there is still plenty of reticle to easily see.

I can get you screen shots from strelok if you give me your gun and ammo details.