Has anyone done any modifications to a Sig 226 pistol to increase velocity ?
if so, what can be done to achieve this.
if so, what can be done to achieve this.
Modifying Sig 226
- Thread starter JAYj
- Start date
I took mine apart to tighten the barrel in its frame. Much better.
Faster...don't really care. More accurate...do care.
Mike
Faster...don't really care. More accurate...do care.
Mike
Upvote 0
Sig sent me an E to say that end users can not modify them ,nor can they, To increase the velocity !
Mike ,what was done to tighten the barrel ?
Mike ,what was done to tighten the barrel ?
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Jay -
2 videos. Both are full of other odd stuff, and I did mine slightly different that both of these guys, but this is the basic idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAnnRU5vBGs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T74rJuwW4tM
I did the basic disassembly, as laid out in front of me, I did sort of a combination of these two guys.
After removing the barrel from the inner frame...
1. I cleaned the receiver end of the (bare) barrel with automotive brake clean.
2. I used aluminum tape to cover the "entire" breach end of the barrel, not just small strips. The aluminum tape is normally for heating & air conditioning ducting sealing work. Can be bought at the big box stores (Lowes etc.). Use what you need to make the barrel solid in the frame. I needed two layers for mine. NOTE, at one location, there is small lugs in the frame that locate into the barrel. Just squeeze the frame halves together until they properly seat around the barrel. I covered the whole breach end to make the barrel fully solid, and in full contact with the inner frame. Use something hard to make sure that the tape is is in full, 100% contact with the barrel, no lumps, air bubbles, no wrinkles, etc.
3. As is said in the videos, DO NOT use the two small screws to "pull" the inner frame halfs back together. You can use a vice, if you have strong hands, you can squeeze it until the screws seat fully with the frame in full solid contact with its other half, you can tap it lightly with a hammer, many ways of making sure that the two inner frame halves are in full contact before fully tightening the two screws.
Verify that the barrel is "tight" in the inner frame, BUT...not so tight that the frame halves do not FULLY seat properly with each other.
4. Oil as required, reassemble.
I've done this type of work to make the barrel solid in the frame of a couple of guns. it works great. Some take slightly different methods, but the outcome is a much more accurate, and "repeatable" gun. Repeatable meaning that the barrel is always pointing at the same place.
Mike
2 videos. Both are full of other odd stuff, and I did mine slightly different that both of these guys, but this is the basic idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAnnRU5vBGs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T74rJuwW4tM
I did the basic disassembly, as laid out in front of me, I did sort of a combination of these two guys.
After removing the barrel from the inner frame...
1. I cleaned the receiver end of the (bare) barrel with automotive brake clean.
2. I used aluminum tape to cover the "entire" breach end of the barrel, not just small strips. The aluminum tape is normally for heating & air conditioning ducting sealing work. Can be bought at the big box stores (Lowes etc.). Use what you need to make the barrel solid in the frame. I needed two layers for mine. NOTE, at one location, there is small lugs in the frame that locate into the barrel. Just squeeze the frame halves together until they properly seat around the barrel. I covered the whole breach end to make the barrel fully solid, and in full contact with the inner frame. Use something hard to make sure that the tape is is in full, 100% contact with the barrel, no lumps, air bubbles, no wrinkles, etc.
3. As is said in the videos, DO NOT use the two small screws to "pull" the inner frame halfs back together. You can use a vice, if you have strong hands, you can squeeze it until the screws seat fully with the frame in full solid contact with its other half, you can tap it lightly with a hammer, many ways of making sure that the two inner frame halves are in full contact before fully tightening the two screws.
Verify that the barrel is "tight" in the inner frame, BUT...not so tight that the frame halves do not FULLY seat properly with each other.
4. Oil as required, reassemble.
I've done this type of work to make the barrel solid in the frame of a couple of guns. it works great. Some take slightly different methods, but the outcome is a much more accurate, and "repeatable" gun. Repeatable meaning that the barrel is always pointing at the same place.
Mike
Upvote 0
It seems Sig or who ever mfgs this pistol have taken notice, as the Sig 320X5 C02 pistol I purchased 4 months back does not have any issue with the barrel being loose in the frame. I could not get it to budge. I can't say I would have ever purchased it if it had not been for the $60.00 price tag from Sig Sauer. I own 3 of there 320X5 pistols in 9mm, one of them the 320X5 Leigon. Very fine powder burners. My 320 C02 is purley a novelty item for me, as it is not all that powerful. I once had a Daisy C02 200 that I feel was stronger than this pistol. But I didn't buy it with any other expectations other than punching holes in paper, so that it does well enough.
Upvote 0