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My first attempt

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Use a 50m measuring tape and then something like this every yard to mark your sidewheel:
Resized_20230326_105225.jpeg


The yellow piece is just a planter and the baseball card is used to focus. The note card and target is pretty self explanatory. I think I bought enough of all of that to go every 1/2yd on Amazon for like $30.

I like to zero at 30yds for no other reason than every single practice range I have been on has had a target setup at exactly 30yds. It works out well though because the shot is basically flat from 17-32yds with that setup and the 10-17 yarders aren't too steep.
 
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Mark your side wheel every yard from 10 to 20-22’ish and figure out your sight setting for each. There is a lot of sight adjustment from 10 to 20 and the kill zones are small at those ranges. Easy shots if you know your range and sight settings. The rifle will shoot fairly flat out to 35 yards, assuming you are sighted in at 30. Past 35 mark your wheel every few yards out to 55 and figure out sight settings for each ranged you marked. Take you time marking your ranges on the side wheel. That’s kind of the foundation for everything else. The HW98 is a great rifle. it should work well for you once you get the scope and sight settings figured out.
 
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Betohunter said:
Hello amigos of AGN.

In one month i have my first attempt in FT with my hw98 springer .
I’m a springer shooter more than a pcp, but I’m new in this discipline, please let me your comments about how can I prepare my setup for the competition, I mean mark on side wheel, zero in my scope etc

Thanks for advance
Click to expand...
Mr. Hunter
That is one gutsy move. WFTF springer...one of the hardest discipline within FT. I know...I've been trying hard to do well in it for ages. I kept getting told to shoot PCP every time I come in last place. But like my wife said...I'm either stupid or stubborn (I'm probably blessed with a touch of both...LOL).

One critical piece of equipment is which scope you are pairing with your HW98.
Are you going to click or use mil-hash?
Lighted reticle?
SFP or FFP?
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From a search of your recent posts...looks like a Hawke 6-24x? if that's the one, it's a good beginner's scope. Use it for one to two seasons... if you enjoy the sport, there's plenty of options to upgrade.
--
Good luck BTW on your first FT shoot. Remember to enjoy yourself and have fun...don't worry too much about your score.
 
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The very first time I did Field Target, I really had no idea what I was doing except what I had read. I went with a new gun setup, never really shot an air rifle before. My goal was to knock down one and got two that day out of 24 I think. To me this was a sense of accomplishment. All the people shooting took me under their wings and learned a lot. I did FT about 2 years and moved to Benchrest. My advice would be, go have a great time. Be prepared with drinks and munches and bring a hat.
 
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BrazosbyNemo said:
Mark your side wheel every yard from 10 to 20-22’ish and figure out your sight setting for each. There is a lot of sight adjustment from 10 to 20 and the kill zones are small at those ranges. Easy shots if you know your range and sight settings. The rifle will shoot fairly flat out to 35 yards, assuming you are sighted in at 30. Past 35 mark your wheel every few yards out to 55 and figure out sight settings for each ranged you marked. Take you time marking your ranges on the side wheel. That’s kind of the foundation for everything else. The HW98 is a great rifle. it should work well for you once you get the scope and sight settings figured out.
Click to expand...
Buddy thanks for your comments.

Well one thing is mark the side wheel and now I have a better idea how to do it, but for time troubles I can’t achieve the sidewinder for this event I’ll use an arken pl4 4-16x44 FFP or an athlon argos 6-24x50 FFP wich suggest me ?

And ok after mark the side wheel ?? Hehe wich is the next step ? How can I measure the clicks with this scopes is recommend

Thanks for advance
 
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Betohunter said:
Buddy thanks for your comments.

Well one thing is mark the side wheel and now I have a better idea how to do it, but for time troubles I can’t achieve the sidewinder for this event I’ll use an arken pl4 4-16x44 FFP or an athlon argos 6-24x50 FFP wich suggest me ?

And ok after mark the side wheel ?? Hehe wich is the next step ? How can I measure the clicks with this scopes is recommend

Thanks for advance
Click to expand...
You may not have time to do it properly but that is ok. Shoot the match. It’s not like you were going to win the match anyway. Go and learn and have a good time. Just pick either scope and sight in at 30 yards. That will get you pretty much in the ballpark for targets between 20-35 yards For this first match. Do figure out 10-20 yards by focusing your scope at each yard and marking it on your wheel. Then sight in at each yard from 10 to 20. if you are pressed for time figure out 10-15 yards and Wing it from 16-20. Then mark the scope at 40, 45, 50, & 55yards and sight in at each of those. Since you don’t have much time just get a general idea of ranging and roughly where your rifle shoots at those ranges. You can fine tune later. Use the match as a learning tool. Take notes on where you think your range marks on your wheel need to be adjusted or sight settings. I am going thru this right now. I have a new rifle, new scope, new side wheel, and a couple weeks until the next match. I do not have much time to shoot between now and the match. I will figure out what I can, shoot the match and learn what worked, or didn‘t, with what I came up with in the short amount of time I had to set things up. I will learn a lot more by shooting the match then what I will learn shooting in the yard at home in the same amount of time.
 
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Betohunter said:
Buddy thanks for your comments.

Well one thing is mark the side wheel and now I have a better idea how to do it, but for time troubles I can’t achieve the sidewinder for this event I’ll use an arken pl4 4-16x44 FFP or an athlon argos 6-24x50 FFP wich suggest me ?

And ok after mark the side wheel ?? Hehe wich is the next step ? How can I measure the clicks with this scopes is recommend

Thanks for advance
Click to expand...
If you are going to shoot WFTF Piston

Go with the Argos 6-24X because ranging with the Arken at 16X past 40 yards is going to be very difficult.

I would keep the Argo at 24X and click for the entire shoot. There's really no need to switch magnification...unless you want a lower magnification to shoot off hand. With clicking...just aim dead center regardless of which magnification.

If you don't know or don't have time to learn clicks, then shoot mil-hash. Just adjust your cross hair to the apex of your dope/pellet drop (around 25-30 yards). Then use the bottom mil-hash as aim points for the other distances. Since it's a FFP scope all the hold over should be the same if you decide to use a lower magnification.


If you have time, look at this video for getting a graph of your dope. The advantage of the graph is that you don't need to shoot a lot of distances, you can use the graph to extrapolate the in-between distances. Minimally, I shoot at least 7 distances to get my graph. I shoot precisely at 10 yards, 30 yards and 55 yards. Then I shoot approximately at 12 , 20, 25 and 45 yards

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I did a quick google. I don't think the Argos comes with a side wheel. You might need to shop around for a sidewheel for your scope. Because you'll need one to accurately range from 40-55 yards.
 
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JP806TX said:
If you are going to shoot WFTF Piston

Go with the Argos 6-24X because ranging with the Arken at 16X past 40 yards is going to be very difficult.

I would keep the Argo at 24X and click for the entire shoot. There's really no need to switch magnification...unless you want a lower magnification to shoot off hand. With clicking...just aim dead center regardless of which magnification.

If you don't know or don't have time to learn clicks, then shoot mil-hash. Just adjust your cross hair to the apex of your dope/pellet drop (around 25-30 yards). Then use the bottom mil-hash as aim points for the other distances. Since it's a FFP scope all the hold over should be the same if you decide to use a lower magnification.


If you have time, look at this video for getting a graph of your dope. The advantage of the graph is that you don't need to shoot a lot of distances, you can use the graph to extrapolate the in-between distances. Minimally, I shoot at least 7 distances to get my graph. I shoot precisely at 10 yards, 30 yards and 55 yards. Then I shoot approximately at 12 , 20, 25 and 45 yards

Click to expand...
Thanks buddy !!
 
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