Just a quick teaser, more to follow. A couple of side-by-side pics for ya. Note the angled design of the 4-I case.
And the 4-I is a tad bit longer than the 4.
And the 4-I is a tad bit longer than the 4.
My GX CS4-I
- Thread starter F6Hawk
- Start date
Flushing the coolant system thoroughly. I had initially filled/ran/drained the reservoir about 10 times but wasn't satisfied with the clarity of the water. The first three runs, it was so cloudy I couldn't see the hole in the bottom. But after 2 minutes of running it with fresh water in and the return. line draining on the ground, I was satisfied. Finished with 8ml of water wetter and 242ml (ish) of distilled.
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Internal 50A PS on the CS4-I. It's convenient to use, but it WON'T be as easy to replace as the external on the CS4. Note the proprietary wiring in pic #3.
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Grease pot wasn't full. Took about 20 turns to get the grease to the top of the pot.
30 turns yielded this (about 60 hours of use?):
After levelling off. Then backed it off about 5-6 turns before re-installing.
30 turns yielded this (about 60 hours of use?):
After levelling off. Then backed it off about 5-6 turns before re-installing.
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Notice pic #2 above. For all the people saying it is a BAD THING to put water into the grease pot area, here's a pic of water in that same area. The grease pot and air inlet are the same port, and water is GOING to exist in these areas as compression happens. It is normal. You will NOT damage your GX by following the manufacturer's recommendation, I promise.
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And now, the pics several of you have been asking for... the inside of the cylinder!
Different grease in the crankacase than what's in the grease pot. Thicker, and smells like a petro-based grease.
First stage separated from cylinder wall:
First stage upside down (just another view, shows the air/grease inlet). Shiny part is 1st stage, black greasy part is 3rd stage:
2nd stage separation from it's cylinder wall:
Different grease in the crankacase than what's in the grease pot. Thicker, and smells like a petro-based grease.
First stage separated from cylinder wall:
First stage upside down (just another view, shows the air/grease inlet). Shiny part is 1st stage, black greasy part is 3rd stage:
2nd stage separation from it's cylinder wall:
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Grease pot without diaphragm:
Wire inserted from grease pot, thru air inlet, and later out the reed valve for the piston:
Air inlet with wire inserted:
Where the air and grease end up inside the head (I backed off the allen screw holding the reed valve in place so we could see the wire and thus air/grease flow):
Wire inserted from grease pot, thru air inlet, and later out the reed valve for the piston:
Air inlet with wire inserted:
Where the air and grease end up inside the head (I backed off the allen screw holding the reed valve in place so we could see the wire and thus air/grease flow):
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Boy, you didn't waste anytime getting the new one
. What's all the black sludge. Is that from the o-rings breaking down and mixing with the grease?Upvote 0
If you've paid attention you can see how the grease enters the 1st stage with the air, gets sucked thru the rest of the stages and lubricates everything nicely. And THIS is why the CS4 needs SO LITTLE grease.
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Naw, I think it is just the silicone getting worked. Probably some color from the o-rings and seals. Bear in mind, I have run it less than 1 minute before taking these pics; it's all factory running thus far.Boy, you didn't waste anytime getting the new one
After reassembly, all I did was a couple of DH test. 32 seconds to 300 bar, and 42 seconds to 400 bar.
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Copy, doesn't look great. As for the grease pot, kinda odd they don't fill it up all the way. If you show them that, they will say it's low and fill it..
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Copy, doesn't look great. As for the grease pot, kinda odd they don't fill it up all the way. If you show them that, they will say it's low and fill it..
Looks aren't everything. I was about to wipe it all off and replenish it, but when I touched it, it was dark, but CLEAN. As in zero grit. It was so smooth, I just relocated some of it on the piston off my fingers and let it go.
Having seen what I saw today, I probably won't touch the grease knob for at least 10 hours, or perhaps even when I hear a change in sound (as the NEW instructions on the CS4-I indicate - IF THE COMPRESSOR SPEED IS NORMAL, DO NOT ADD GREASE.). Now I see why Jason is saying that after a year, lubrication is not needed.
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Gonna decide which one I like better, and let the other one go to a better home. That's the plan for now, anyway.
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I already got 10 hours on the CS4. Pumps well, still don't like the clicking and knocking though.
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Also, since you are probably the ONLY person following my amperage testing, I got .17/.6/5~6 amps on the CS4-I. (PS/Fan&cool/pressure)
Split and clamped.
Split and clamped.
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