Matt, varified... that gauge is the one that comes with the paintball regulator. He used the original probe cover and cap and he machined them to fit the new tube and gauge.
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MY NEW KRAL BREAKER SILENT BULL PUP...HONEST REVIEW!
- Thread starter Pauls Custom Targets
- Start date
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Airgunmonkey, Are you talking about the link that attaches to the bolt? No, it's stamped steel and should be strong enough.
Strike, forgot that he made a new reservoir and end cap, makes sense now. Thanks
Strike, forgot that he made a new reservoir and end cap, makes sense now. Thanks
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Silentmatt - Is there a spring in there that pushes the lever back? Mine is popping open now with every shot. This of course backs the probe out a bit and I'm thinking this is causing some inconsistency. This started happening after I tightened the hammer screw. The gun is shooting JSB 25.39's at 790 for around 35 FPE, and I'm getting decent 10 shot groups, between 1/4 and 3/4 at 25 yards. I can get it to stop opening, but i have to back off till i'm at 30 FPE.
There has to be a way to fix this.
I'm going to pull it apart tomorrow, but I was wondering if a softer spring may help, or maybe this new lever would?
Thanks.
There has to be a way to fix this.
I'm going to pull it apart tomorrow, but I was wondering if a softer spring may help, or maybe this new lever would?
Thanks.
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Rod, Yes, there is a brass barrel directly under the bolt with a spring that pushes it towards the rear of the gun. It's linked to the bolt with a pin that runs all the way
down to the hammer. The link that connects the the lever to the bolt is supposed to cam over past centerline to hold the bolt/lever closed. No two of these guns are exactly the same except for maybe the receivers and that stamped link. My gun doesn't open up on its own, but is very close to not having enough length to cam over.
I plan on changing the dimensions a bit to make sure that every gun has a positive lockup, so yes, the new lever will fix this.
down to the hammer. The link that connects the the lever to the bolt is supposed to cam over past centerline to hold the bolt/lever closed. No two of these guns are exactly the same except for maybe the receivers and that stamped link. My gun doesn't open up on its own, but is very close to not having enough length to cam over.
I plan on changing the dimensions a bit to make sure that every gun has a positive lockup, so yes, the new lever will fix this.
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So... I was shooting for groups across the chrony, and I think I found my guns sweet spot.
760fps for 32 fpe
i know, it's low. But at 20 yards I'm getting three consistent 1/4 center to center 10 shot groups. And the middle group is always one hole.
https://goo.gl/photos/Z5mehoCjB8bGPFFj8
https://goo.gl/photos/vvCcjVhsmBMff12eA
Thats 10 shots in that hole.
I fill to 2800. The curve starts there for me. The barrel is fully floating. And the pellets are sorted using a gage.
The guns a keeper.
thanks for all the help on this forum.
760fps for 32 fpe
i know, it's low. But at 20 yards I'm getting three consistent 1/4 center to center 10 shot groups. And the middle group is always one hole.
https://goo.gl/photos/Z5mehoCjB8bGPFFj8
https://goo.gl/photos/vvCcjVhsmBMff12eA
Thats 10 shots in that hole.
I fill to 2800. The curve starts there for me. The barrel is fully floating. And the pellets are sorted using a gage.
The guns a keeper.
thanks for all the help on this forum.
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That's some good mojo there Rod...great looking group. I would say she's a keeper too. I see Matt has been busy too. Great thread guys!
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Rod, glad you got it ironed out. I did say the bugger was very accurate when you find the pellet/speed combo!
The barrels are not bad for the price. Changing to a LW choked barrel or a poly will really make this gun a tack driver.... The power will take some tinkering to get it up and keep the accuracy.
What pellet did you end up with to get your groups.....?
The barrels are not bad for the price. Changing to a LW choked barrel or a poly will really make this gun a tack driver.... The power will take some tinkering to get it up and keep the accuracy.
What pellet did you end up with to get your groups.....?
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strikefast, That's with the JSB Match 25.39 that have been sorted for head size. Ted did a video a while back on how diameter is more of a factor than weight. I've been sorting every since. Clean your barrel, and sort your pellets and flyers are now your fault.
I sorted three tins of JSB Match 25.39 and they all sorted into two main groups of 6.38 and 6.39. I got a few stragglers in 6.37 and 6.41 and a couple dozen at 6.40. So even match pellets will vary in head size.
My barrel likes the 6.38. And I would bet any pellet that sorts to this diameter would work just as good.
I shot the gun down to the end of the string using 5 shot groups a few times and noticed that my groups started getting tighter when the FPS was around 760. So I kept adjusting the hammer spring until I was in the 760 range.
Then I noticed that my shot string would start low (747 ) for the first 10 shots or so when I filled to 2900. So I started filling to 2800 and then adjusted for 760, and bingo, groups got very tight at 20 yards.
First Group
https://goo.gl/photos/fZhdYmvD9jTnssDW9
Second Group
https://goo.gl/photos/x7Jfh6bqnshkPJLn7
Third Group
https://goo.gl/photos/cPwZZTA44xV5Dsw4A
And this isn't a fluke, I didn't cherry pick them, this is a good representation of what's going on when I don't pull my shots.
The shot curve ends now around shot 35, so next I need to see how many shots I can keep in an inch at 50 yards. I'm doing a 4x4 run out in Johnson Valley with my kids after the holiday. I'll probably do a little jack rabbit and make them stew (which they will hate) then I have a chance to go turkey hunting the following weekend in Spring Valley. So I've been spending all my extra time trying to get her ready. I've drained two 88 CF tanks getting here.
My impression with this gun is that the quality control could be better. So for anyone who has bought one, I'd tell them the following:
1. Make sure all the screws are tight. Lock tight when needed and see the pictures in this thread by strikefast at the top of this thread.
2. Clean the barrel.
3. Make sure the scope mount is aligned properly and the barrel isn't touching.
4. Make sure you have a good fit between action and stock, A little scope mounting tape did the trick for me.
5. Adjust the trigger, it's worth the time you'll spend.
6. Find the right pellet, use a pellet gage, or you're just guessing.
Extra credit:
7. Float the barrel, all you need to do is check that it's not touching the scope mount and dremel out the barrel band a tiny bit. Mine was sitting on the band and would throw groups high at the low end of the shot curve.
8. Get a chorny and adjust the hammer spring till your shot string has a good curve. Don't accept anything less than 3 FPS SD. Mine seems to like 760fps.
9. Accept that this is a 32 FPE gun by design. If you want more power, be prepared to do extra work to get her to shoot properly.
I do like the bullpup, I am hitting a 1" spinner standing, offhand at 30 yards, 8 out of 10 times. I can't do that with my friends Marauder.
Also, my son is a lefty and doesn't like the gun. The comb doesn't work for left handed shooters.
I sorted three tins of JSB Match 25.39 and they all sorted into two main groups of 6.38 and 6.39. I got a few stragglers in 6.37 and 6.41 and a couple dozen at 6.40. So even match pellets will vary in head size.
My barrel likes the 6.38. And I would bet any pellet that sorts to this diameter would work just as good.
I shot the gun down to the end of the string using 5 shot groups a few times and noticed that my groups started getting tighter when the FPS was around 760. So I kept adjusting the hammer spring until I was in the 760 range.
Then I noticed that my shot string would start low (747 ) for the first 10 shots or so when I filled to 2900. So I started filling to 2800 and then adjusted for 760, and bingo, groups got very tight at 20 yards.
First Group
https://goo.gl/photos/fZhdYmvD9jTnssDW9
Second Group
https://goo.gl/photos/x7Jfh6bqnshkPJLn7
Third Group
https://goo.gl/photos/cPwZZTA44xV5Dsw4A
And this isn't a fluke, I didn't cherry pick them, this is a good representation of what's going on when I don't pull my shots.
The shot curve ends now around shot 35, so next I need to see how many shots I can keep in an inch at 50 yards. I'm doing a 4x4 run out in Johnson Valley with my kids after the holiday. I'll probably do a little jack rabbit and make them stew (which they will hate) then I have a chance to go turkey hunting the following weekend in Spring Valley. So I've been spending all my extra time trying to get her ready. I've drained two 88 CF tanks getting here.
My impression with this gun is that the quality control could be better. So for anyone who has bought one, I'd tell them the following:
1. Make sure all the screws are tight. Lock tight when needed and see the pictures in this thread by strikefast at the top of this thread.
2. Clean the barrel.
3. Make sure the scope mount is aligned properly and the barrel isn't touching.
4. Make sure you have a good fit between action and stock, A little scope mounting tape did the trick for me.
5. Adjust the trigger, it's worth the time you'll spend.
6. Find the right pellet, use a pellet gage, or you're just guessing.
Extra credit:
7. Float the barrel, all you need to do is check that it's not touching the scope mount and dremel out the barrel band a tiny bit. Mine was sitting on the band and would throw groups high at the low end of the shot curve.
8. Get a chorny and adjust the hammer spring till your shot string has a good curve. Don't accept anything less than 3 FPS SD. Mine seems to like 760fps.
9. Accept that this is a 32 FPE gun by design. If you want more power, be prepared to do extra work to get her to shoot properly.
I do like the bullpup, I am hitting a 1" spinner standing, offhand at 30 yards, 8 out of 10 times. I can't do that with my friends Marauder.
Also, my son is a lefty and doesn't like the gun. The comb doesn't work for left handed shooters.
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Rod-That's exactly where I'm at, 760fps/32fpe with the 25.39 JSBs. I had a LDC on mine which worked great but I think maybe the weight of it was effecting accuracy. I couldn't seem to get my groups under about 1" at about 45 yards. Went back to the shroud with 3 baffles & spring and the groups tightened up. I can now get closer to 1/2" groups IF I do my job. If I get a flyer I know I caused it. I also find the shroud with the 3 baffles is perfectly acceptable noise wise. Maybe if I lived right next door to a picky neighbor it might irritate 'em if they had their windows open but that's not the case. Happy camper (shooter?) now.
Btw, these groups are off the bipod/bench NOT offhand. Way too shaky for that!
Ed
Btw, these groups are off the bipod/bench NOT offhand. Way too shaky for that!
Ed
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Rod, Ed...... Good to see that you are happy with the little bull pup. Finding the rt pellet and speed has always been the trick to get the most accuracy from air rifles.
Ed, I put 4 Mrod baffles in my Breaker. I left the spring out and they fit perfect... No movement. Got it quiet.....
Still interested in the lever upgrade that Matt has come up with...
Ed, I put 4 Mrod baffles in my Breaker. I left the spring out and they fit perfect... No movement. Got it quiet.....
Still interested in the lever upgrade that Matt has come up with...
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OldCorps, My groups opened up when the barrel hit the bottom of the barrel band. I bet you would dremel it out a bit and run that LDC.
The pic's are from a bench rest (folding table) on a bag. No wind, I can shoot down a fence line. I have ordered baffles. Somehow I tweaked my charging lever and now the gun will open when the valve closes even at 32 FPE. But I did a lot of testing on the chrony, holding the level closed, and then letting it open, and it's not changing the shot string. So the pellet is out of the barrel by the time the lever opens ( I think ). It's loud, my 10/22 rimfire is quieter. I had a friend over last night and we were joking I could probably shoot my .22 in the back yard now and no one would notice. I'm surprised my neighbor hasn't mentioned it. My setup is just 10 feet from his kitchen. But I never shoot after 6pm so as not to be too inconsiderate.
Looking forward to trying the baffles, my upcoming turkey shoot is on private property, but we will be close to the house, so I'd like it to be quiet. I want to be invited back.
I'm looking forward to trying the new lever. But other then that, I'm going to just leave this gun alone and think of it as a hunting/stalking gun out to 50 yards. I still have a bunch of pellet's to try so I may find a way to get it up to 40 FPE and still be accurate, but I'm happy the way it is.
The pic's are from a bench rest (folding table) on a bag. No wind, I can shoot down a fence line. I have ordered baffles. Somehow I tweaked my charging lever and now the gun will open when the valve closes even at 32 FPE. But I did a lot of testing on the chrony, holding the level closed, and then letting it open, and it's not changing the shot string. So the pellet is out of the barrel by the time the lever opens ( I think ). It's loud, my 10/22 rimfire is quieter. I had a friend over last night and we were joking I could probably shoot my .22 in the back yard now and no one would notice. I'm surprised my neighbor hasn't mentioned it. My setup is just 10 feet from his kitchen. But I never shoot after 6pm so as not to be too inconsiderate.
Looking forward to trying the baffles, my upcoming turkey shoot is on private property, but we will be close to the house, so I'd like it to be quiet. I want to be invited back.
I'm looking forward to trying the new lever. But other then that, I'm going to just leave this gun alone and think of it as a hunting/stalking gun out to 50 yards. I still have a bunch of pellet's to try so I may find a way to get it up to 40 FPE and still be accurate, but I'm happy the way it is.
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Tweaking the dimensions a bit and streamlining the manufacturing process, gotta get the cost as low as possible.
Glad to hear everyone is problem free and shooting good!
Glad to hear everyone is problem free and shooting good!
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Gents,
I really appreciate all your info on the Puncher Breaker, especially Strikefast's photos. I went through my .25 cal PB per the posts on this thread and noticed that the hammer spring screw was backed out all the way. No wonder I was getting 60 to 65 shots and only doing 719 fps! I measured the cocking lever pull weight at that tension and it was 9 lbs. I turned the adjusting screw in, 3 turns and measured the tension; about 11 lbs. The gun shot an average of 740 fps using the JSB 25.39 Exact King. I turned the screw in one more turn for a total of four turns from flush with the end of the receiver. The cocking lever pull weight went to 12 lbs. and I was shooting 752 fps for a total of 31.87 fl-lbs. I went back in and adjusted the trigger's second stage. Its just about right now (less creep and predictable release) Note: the instruction book tells you that you can adjust the trigger too much and the lever won't latch. The best way I can describe it is: The adjustment screw decreases the latch height relative to the sear. Kral made it possible to actually lift the lever past the sear engagement point LOL! REALLY?!
I also pulled the shroud off thanks to your wise, posted findings (set screw and all other tips). It was fitting the barrel well with an even radial clearance, and showed no signs of pellet impingement. I do have zero clearance where the tops of the barrel passes thru the forward scope assembly bracket, but the rear bracket clearances are perfect. I'm going to shoot it some more for accuracy, but I'm inclined to revisit this as you guys say it makes a difference. I get about 3 to 4 fliers approximatel two inches or so radially, around the main group at 45 to 50 yards.
The gun is sighted in at 45 yards (bullseye), and the first pass through the zero point (bullseye) is at 17 yards with the JSB 25.39. I used the Benjamin 27.8 gn pellet (nice finish) just for fun at 21 yards off my knee and my favorite chair, and shot this in the drizzling wind this morning:
http://s430.photobucket.com/user/Bigship/media/Air%20Guns/PB_BSA%20at%2021_zpslb8kztbm.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
The shots on the right and left are the HUMA regulated, BSA R-10 MKII off the knee for comparison. The BSA shot a 1/2 inch group. I shot a 1.1 inch group with the PB. No fliers (but I really flinched on a couple of shots and patched them, as you can see). Resting on my portable shooting bench with no movement, I should be able to shoot the PB in a 3/4 inch hole at that distance or more. It was hard to be consistent with both the BSA and the PB because I shot the bullseye out by the 4th shot and was aiming at black on black with the crosshair (and I know better than that!).
All in all the Kral PB is not the brightest student in class, but its a sweet kid and I like it. It was designed to shoot about 30 to perhaps 33 fl-lbs without internal porting work (much like the BSA R-10). WAR (Travis) had a lot of difficulty because he was trying to move this gun up to the next level (VERY TEMPTING too), and the components overall were just too stressed. If you guys think I should try to restore the barrel clearance on the forward scope mount (fully float the barrel) please weigh in. Had fun this morning but got to get to work. Again, thanks for sharing your posts.
I really appreciate all your info on the Puncher Breaker, especially Strikefast's photos. I went through my .25 cal PB per the posts on this thread and noticed that the hammer spring screw was backed out all the way. No wonder I was getting 60 to 65 shots and only doing 719 fps! I measured the cocking lever pull weight at that tension and it was 9 lbs. I turned the adjusting screw in, 3 turns and measured the tension; about 11 lbs. The gun shot an average of 740 fps using the JSB 25.39 Exact King. I turned the screw in one more turn for a total of four turns from flush with the end of the receiver. The cocking lever pull weight went to 12 lbs. and I was shooting 752 fps for a total of 31.87 fl-lbs. I went back in and adjusted the trigger's second stage. Its just about right now (less creep and predictable release) Note: the instruction book tells you that you can adjust the trigger too much and the lever won't latch. The best way I can describe it is: The adjustment screw decreases the latch height relative to the sear. Kral made it possible to actually lift the lever past the sear engagement point LOL! REALLY?!
I also pulled the shroud off thanks to your wise, posted findings (set screw and all other tips). It was fitting the barrel well with an even radial clearance, and showed no signs of pellet impingement. I do have zero clearance where the tops of the barrel passes thru the forward scope assembly bracket, but the rear bracket clearances are perfect. I'm going to shoot it some more for accuracy, but I'm inclined to revisit this as you guys say it makes a difference. I get about 3 to 4 fliers approximatel two inches or so radially, around the main group at 45 to 50 yards.
The gun is sighted in at 45 yards (bullseye), and the first pass through the zero point (bullseye) is at 17 yards with the JSB 25.39. I used the Benjamin 27.8 gn pellet (nice finish) just for fun at 21 yards off my knee and my favorite chair, and shot this in the drizzling wind this morning:
http://s430.photobucket.com/user/Bigship/media/Air%20Guns/PB_BSA%20at%2021_zpslb8kztbm.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
The shots on the right and left are the HUMA regulated, BSA R-10 MKII off the knee for comparison. The BSA shot a 1/2 inch group. I shot a 1.1 inch group with the PB. No fliers (but I really flinched on a couple of shots and patched them, as you can see). Resting on my portable shooting bench with no movement, I should be able to shoot the PB in a 3/4 inch hole at that distance or more. It was hard to be consistent with both the BSA and the PB because I shot the bullseye out by the 4th shot and was aiming at black on black with the crosshair (and I know better than that!).
All in all the Kral PB is not the brightest student in class, but its a sweet kid and I like it. It was designed to shoot about 30 to perhaps 33 fl-lbs without internal porting work (much like the BSA R-10). WAR (Travis) had a lot of difficulty because he was trying to move this gun up to the next level (VERY TEMPTING too), and the components overall were just too stressed. If you guys think I should try to restore the barrel clearance on the forward scope mount (fully float the barrel) please weigh in. Had fun this morning but got to get to work. Again, thanks for sharing your posts.
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hello
first my name is emiel
i,m from holland and 40 years old.
y schoot several years with airguns
and now have y a kral breaker in .22
y reading this topic these week and these are my thinking about the kral arms breaker.
nice bullpup for the money
but there are some things wat can be better.
1 the o-rings are no good/better nbr 70 shore
2 the cocking handel was by my breaker broken
3 the fillingport was leaking
4 take out the barrel and give a good clean y have use vfg cleaning paste special four airgunbarrels.
the most time y schoot at 50 and 100 meters
four the rest it,s nice bullpup
sorry four my bad englisch
greets from holland
emiel
first my name is emiel
i,m from holland and 40 years old.
y schoot several years with airguns
and now have y a kral breaker in .22
y reading this topic these week and these are my thinking about the kral arms breaker.
nice bullpup for the money
but there are some things wat can be better.
1 the o-rings are no good/better nbr 70 shore
2 the cocking handel was by my breaker broken
3 the fillingport was leaking
4 take out the barrel and give a good clean y have use vfg cleaning paste special four airgunbarrels.
the most time y schoot at 50 and 100 meters
four the rest it,s nice bullpup
sorry four my bad englisch
greets from holland
emiel
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Bigship, If you loosen the scope assembly bracket at the bottom of the air tank, you should be able to center it and get clearance in the front.
I took my scope off, then set the action upside down so it was resting on the scope mount on my bench. Then I took some feeler gages I use to check spark plugs and made sure I had the same spacing left and right. I also noticed the scope assembly bracket can move forward and back and mine was a little too far forward to fit into the stock correctly. Then take the barrel band off and see if that helps. My barrel was binding on the front scope mount and and then binding again on the barrel band. After I aligned the scope assembly, I used a dremel and took a tiny bit out of the bottom side of the barrel band. Just enough to the barrel could move. I covered it with some liquid blueing I got from walmart, but you can't see it unless you remove the barrel band. For me, that's all I had to do to make the barrel float. And I feel it has plenty of protection for throwing it in my truck and hiking over hills this quail season.
I also had to add a little tape as my wood stock had a little too much material routed out in the front. So the action was moving a little in the stock.
I took my scope off, then set the action upside down so it was resting on the scope mount on my bench. Then I took some feeler gages I use to check spark plugs and made sure I had the same spacing left and right. I also noticed the scope assembly bracket can move forward and back and mine was a little too far forward to fit into the stock correctly. Then take the barrel band off and see if that helps. My barrel was binding on the front scope mount and and then binding again on the barrel band. After I aligned the scope assembly, I used a dremel and took a tiny bit out of the bottom side of the barrel band. Just enough to the barrel could move. I covered it with some liquid blueing I got from walmart, but you can't see it unless you remove the barrel band. For me, that's all I had to do to make the barrel float. And I feel it has plenty of protection for throwing it in my truck and hiking over hills this quail season.
I also had to add a little tape as my wood stock had a little too much material routed out in the front. So the action was moving a little in the stock.
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"strikefast Rod, glad you got it ironed out. I did say the bugger was very accurate when you find the pellet/speed combo!"
Yep, you called it. I probably would not have bought one had I not seen this thread. Tell Kral you want commision.
Yep, you called it. I probably would not have bought one had I not seen this thread. Tell Kral you want commision.
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Rod, thanks for the detail re. proper barrel float! Dadgummit, now I'm compelled to go back out to my garage and finish your extra credit task. Thanks again, and your guidance is much appreciated.
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I'm using 4 baffles no spring too, sounds pretty quiet. I've had the ldc & switching shroud+7..I like it with 4 the best I think now I can order that 31inch case.
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