What power level are you expecting from the tune? Mine was just over 50fpe. I backed it down to 47-48fpe. Shoots JSB 25.4gr kings at 920's now.
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MY NEW KRAL BREAKER SILENT BULL PUP...HONEST REVIEW!
- Thread starter Pauls Custom Targets
- Start date
Leaving that to Will... 36 FPE was a little low but he will put the power to the optimum for the 25 grain AAs.
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Hey Strike,
Do you know if that barrel swap is a direct bolt drop in or did Will have to do some work to get it to bolt up.
There are a couple barrel offering out there for .22 Mrod, you have me thinking now. I mean my is shooting fine now out to 30yrds with is really all I wanted it for, but with a better barrel really got me thinking about this for days after your post.
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The Marauder.25 barrel is .500" the Kral barrel is .550" or .590" can't remember and not home to measure. It's then turned down to .460" where it enters the breech. A 177 or 22 Marauder barrel is .440" for the full length.
I'm going to try lapping the bore rather than replace the barrel. They seem to be fairly accurate out of the box.
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thammer, We have a Marauder that Will tuned for our loaner gun at our club matches. That thing is as accurate as a Steyr...The trigger is like my Styers at about 2.8 oz.I will bow to Will's experience and air gun tuning with regards to his use of the Marauder barrels. He stocks them to use on his guns.. I am sure it will be a tack driver when it comes back....
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I have zero doubts in Wills ability. I know the the marauder barrels are one of the best made in .25. I'm just saying before I drop another $100 on a barrel on top of the rifle and tunes and quiet kits I'm going to see if the stock barrel can be made better.
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Ok Guys, I'm back! I have been busy filling orders for field targets...I have 10 on the bench rt now to finish... Not to mention matches each weekend until May 21st at the Southern Open. I am suppling the targets for the pistol match there, Busy busy....
I got the Kral back from Will Piatt this past weekend. Unfortunately I have not had a calm day to test the gun. On Sunday I shot it as it came from Will, in steady 7 MPH winds.
It actually shot well with the new power tune and only had a few pellets from the 5 shot groups push away from the rest. Here are the results at 30 yards with three groups of 5. I was able to wait out the wind for the center group and they all went under a dime. The other two the wind would not die down so 2 went off in each group.
The second group is at 50 yards and still in the 7 MPH wind with gusts, The gusts moved 2 pellets at each group but still good. The dots are 3/4" stick ons.
I have only used the 25.4 grain Air Arms pellets for the test. I have several others to try yet. The Kral barrel liked the AAs so that is what I started with. The barrel may prefer another pellet, but the AAs seem good in this barrel.
Will put a Green Mountain barrel on (Maurader), heat treated the sear and did a trigger job. Locked the power adjuster wide open with a set screw from above, Custom exhaust valve, and repaired the lever from being bent,
The chrony results were Hi 907 Lo 894 Avg 900 Es 13 Sd 4 for the FPE of 45.70 It can go higher with the hammer spring adjustment but this is fine for me. I have a galvanized grain silo behind my 100 yard ground marker just for errant pellets. After shooting the first target and going through the foam backer, The pellets dent th metal really serious. In fact, one pellet went through!
Now I noticed the shroud sitting on the front barrel band. Will noted he prefers the barrel band touching on hunting guns, and free on target guns. I prefer free floated on all my guns. So to work I go!
I found with the increased power the gun was considerably louder, so I moved the shroud forward to allow the 7 baffles to fit in front of the barrel. Longer then I wanted, but way shorter then the FX Royale 400, it is replacing in my blind..... Will drilled and tapped the rear shroud support bushing so the shroud can just be moved forward and back with that grub screw. It is much more quiet but still not backyard friendly in this .25 caliber.
I took the barrel band off with the gauge cap and air cylinder ring. I turned it down to allow the shroud and barrel to completely free float and re-installed it upside down. The guage cap and cylinder ring are back in place and functioning... If I decide to keep it there I may cut and shape the band to blend in....
I ordered a knock off Atlas bipod and found that the picatinny mount on the Kral lacking in size for the bi pod. It was a tad loose but worked. The problem, is that the mount is plastic...SOOOOO I bought a Magpul moun,t but the holes are two and the screws smaller then the Kral brass fitting. Besides, the Magpul is supposed to fit an accessory rail with special included nuts. So off to the shop again. I drilled the Magpul screw hole to 3/8" and took the Kral bolt from the plastic mount and smoothed it down to fit in the 3/8" hole. Then it allowed the Magpul Aluminim mount to fit the gun. After it was tight in the brass fitting, I drilled a hole through the stock and used the supplied Magpul bolt and nut to secure the rear of the mount. Tight and stronger then the plastic deal.
I tried to shoot 30, 50 , and 75 yards today with winds at 12 MPH steady from the left and gusts higher... Here is what I got with the free floated barrel. Keep in mind this barrel has had less then a half a tin through it and one cleaning. It is still getting seasoned...
Considering the wind I think that the gun will work out. Can't wait for a calm morning so I can try at 100 yards..
The lever is popping out and Will said it is a copy of the Korean Blizzard their lever may fit, He is sending me one to see. He said when he bent the lever back it stopped doing that. But since the metal was so soft, it must have bent again...Damn I'm Strong...lol
He said the blizzard in .357 has 200 FPE pushing on it and it does not pop out...I will see if it fits....or if I can come up with something else...
I got the Kral back from Will Piatt this past weekend. Unfortunately I have not had a calm day to test the gun. On Sunday I shot it as it came from Will, in steady 7 MPH winds.
It actually shot well with the new power tune and only had a few pellets from the 5 shot groups push away from the rest. Here are the results at 30 yards with three groups of 5. I was able to wait out the wind for the center group and they all went under a dime. The other two the wind would not die down so 2 went off in each group.
The second group is at 50 yards and still in the 7 MPH wind with gusts, The gusts moved 2 pellets at each group but still good. The dots are 3/4" stick ons.
I have only used the 25.4 grain Air Arms pellets for the test. I have several others to try yet. The Kral barrel liked the AAs so that is what I started with. The barrel may prefer another pellet, but the AAs seem good in this barrel.
Will put a Green Mountain barrel on (Maurader), heat treated the sear and did a trigger job. Locked the power adjuster wide open with a set screw from above, Custom exhaust valve, and repaired the lever from being bent,
The chrony results were Hi 907 Lo 894 Avg 900 Es 13 Sd 4 for the FPE of 45.70 It can go higher with the hammer spring adjustment but this is fine for me. I have a galvanized grain silo behind my 100 yard ground marker just for errant pellets. After shooting the first target and going through the foam backer, The pellets dent th metal really serious. In fact, one pellet went through!
Now I noticed the shroud sitting on the front barrel band. Will noted he prefers the barrel band touching on hunting guns, and free on target guns. I prefer free floated on all my guns. So to work I go!
I found with the increased power the gun was considerably louder, so I moved the shroud forward to allow the 7 baffles to fit in front of the barrel. Longer then I wanted, but way shorter then the FX Royale 400, it is replacing in my blind..... Will drilled and tapped the rear shroud support bushing so the shroud can just be moved forward and back with that grub screw. It is much more quiet but still not backyard friendly in this .25 caliber.
I took the barrel band off with the gauge cap and air cylinder ring. I turned it down to allow the shroud and barrel to completely free float and re-installed it upside down. The guage cap and cylinder ring are back in place and functioning... If I decide to keep it there I may cut and shape the band to blend in....
I ordered a knock off Atlas bipod and found that the picatinny mount on the Kral lacking in size for the bi pod. It was a tad loose but worked. The problem, is that the mount is plastic...SOOOOO I bought a Magpul moun,t but the holes are two and the screws smaller then the Kral brass fitting. Besides, the Magpul is supposed to fit an accessory rail with special included nuts. So off to the shop again. I drilled the Magpul screw hole to 3/8" and took the Kral bolt from the plastic mount and smoothed it down to fit in the 3/8" hole. Then it allowed the Magpul Aluminim mount to fit the gun. After it was tight in the brass fitting, I drilled a hole through the stock and used the supplied Magpul bolt and nut to secure the rear of the mount. Tight and stronger then the plastic deal.
I tried to shoot 30, 50 , and 75 yards today with winds at 12 MPH steady from the left and gusts higher... Here is what I got with the free floated barrel. Keep in mind this barrel has had less then a half a tin through it and one cleaning. It is still getting seasoned...
Considering the wind I think that the gun will work out. Can't wait for a calm morning so I can try at 100 yards..
The lever is popping out and Will said it is a copy of the Korean Blizzard their lever may fit, He is sending me one to see. He said when he bent the lever back it stopped doing that. But since the metal was so soft, it must have bent again...Damn I'm Strong...lol
He said the blizzard in .357 has 200 FPE pushing on it and it does not pop out...I will see if it fits....or if I can come up with something else...
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Hey Paul, glad to see you're enjoying your tweaked toy, lol. Seems to be shooting pretty good considering the wind. Im thinking she'll settle in after you've put more pellets down the pipe...
Al
Al
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Glad to see those results Paul, VERY impressive power and accuracy from the little Kral! Re. the loudness, I got a "quiet kit" from Troy Hammer and it made mine as quiet as my Mrod or AT44. Of course I'm only shooting the Kings @ 760 average so dunno how quiet it'd make yours. I'd GUESS about the same as the 7 baffles just a lot shorter. Ends up being only about 1" longer than stock. $35 was a very fair price. Post #20 on this thread shows the installation-easy. http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=124750.0
Be gentle with the lever, there's been a number of them reported to have snapped, OUCH! There's a guy on GTA working on making stronger ones.
Ed
Be gentle with the lever, there's been a number of them reported to have snapped, OUCH! There's a guy on GTA working on making stronger ones.
Ed
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Saw that on the lever Ed. If the blizzard one fits, it is an easy fix. I'll look into the kit from Troy...
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What I did to quiet down my Krall pup was, I bought a piece of copper tube with the same ID of the shroud , cut a few pieces in 1.5", 1" and 1/2" got some washers with the same diameter with a 7mm center hole (my is a .22(5.5mm), drilled a few 1mm holes on the part the screw in on the barrel to make use of the back of the shroud space , inserted the 1.5", washer, 1", washer, 1.5", washer, 1/2", washer, 1/2", washer and the end cap, that made my very quiet, just can hear the hammer spring and pellet impact( if the target is close enough, and the length of the gun stays the same.Just made sure the copper tube/pipe is very thin not to take too much volume/capacity for the blast of air to expend.
Oh, and I cut the air striper on the end cape to accommodate the last 1/2" spacer.
Oh, and I cut the air striper on the end cape to accommodate the last 1/2" spacer.
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I did something like that with PVC connectors before. It was on a disco as an experiment. It was as quiet as the TKO.
However it was a.177....
However it was a.177....
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It works really well, I do that on all my silencers/moderators as when you buy them, the internals are hair curlers with some damping material and washers, so I modify them all.
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Dang, I have been busy with making target orders and forgot. I just shot a match with Will yesterday but forgot to ask him to bring a lever. I will do it rt now....Sorry
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There's a couple guys sitting with new guns with broken levers, that if this lever fits would help them through the frustration they've feeling.
btw I shot a 72 shot string @ 37 fpe out of my .22 on full power the other day, unbelievable that I could of easily dropped down to low power and continued on for another 30-45 shots on lower power which I would have done but forgot to bring jsb 13.43's or cphp's 14.3' which by the way the gun loves on low power.
For this gun to be able to produce 100+ shots per fill is OutFreakingStanding!
btw I shot a 72 shot string @ 37 fpe out of my .22 on full power the other day, unbelievable that I could of easily dropped down to low power and continued on for another 30-45 shots on lower power which I would have done but forgot to bring jsb 13.43's or cphp's 14.3' which by the way the gun loves on low power.
For this gun to be able to produce 100+ shots per fill is OutFreakingStanding!
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Here is the scoop on the Evanix Blizzard lever fitting the Kral. Will is correct in saying the Kral Silent is a clone of the Blizzard. The tolerances are a little off though. The lever is designed the same but the Evanix lever is a tad longer. It is a solid piece, I can tell you, and it will fit. But on closing the lever has to be forced to close and I saw that the pellet probe’s rear section in the guide comes out of the breech a little bit. This might be pushing the pellet in too far and effect the performance, as well as adding stress to the spring.
This pic shows the length of the Evanix lever. It would need to be shortened and heat bent outward a little. The OEM lever shows the bend between the two pivot points
This pic shows the OEM after I straightened ti back out. Now you can see the difference in the two pivot points between the two.
The original lever is bending causing the lever to pop open. In this pic you can see the metal fatigue in the form of the lines across the lever back. That is why the levers are breaking, as It is made of a cast metal,,,, ?? The pressure you exert on pulling the lever causes it to bend at the distance between the two pivot points. That is where they are breaking I suppose. Mine has only bent so far. I don’t muscle it back, but with the FPE hovering close to 50 FPE, I imagine the added pressure from the spring is going to make the lever give up the ghost eventually.
I may try to weld a rib to the back of the original lever but the weld heat may melt the metal before it can adhere… I could try opening the hole in the rear of the Evanix lever, as it is slightly thicker than the original. That might allow enough relief to set the cocking link with less pressure. The probe needs to be at the same level as the breech to avoid any stress, I need to measure how far the probe extends then with the OEM lever. Making a larger hole in the back pivot point might get enough to work.
This pic shows the length of the Evanix lever. It would need to be shortened and heat bent outward a little. The OEM lever shows the bend between the two pivot points
This pic shows the OEM after I straightened ti back out. Now you can see the difference in the two pivot points between the two.
The original lever is bending causing the lever to pop open. In this pic you can see the metal fatigue in the form of the lines across the lever back. That is why the levers are breaking, as It is made of a cast metal,,,, ?? The pressure you exert on pulling the lever causes it to bend at the distance between the two pivot points. That is where they are breaking I suppose. Mine has only bent so far. I don’t muscle it back, but with the FPE hovering close to 50 FPE, I imagine the added pressure from the spring is going to make the lever give up the ghost eventually.
I may try to weld a rib to the back of the original lever but the weld heat may melt the metal before it can adhere… I could try opening the hole in the rear of the Evanix lever, as it is slightly thicker than the original. That might allow enough relief to set the cocking link with less pressure. The probe needs to be at the same level as the breech to avoid any stress, I need to measure how far the probe extends then with the OEM lever. Making a larger hole in the back pivot point might get enough to work.
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BTW, I fixed the issue with the Kral .25 denting and going through my safety backstop of a galvanized silo section. I put a horse stall mat from Tractor Supply on it. $39.00!!!
Man is that thing heavy. I got it on the ground and could not mange to get it up and held for me to drill holes for bolts... It is awkward to do by yourself. I rolled it up and put it in the back of the truck and backed it up to do it.The .25 bounces off it at 30 yds, and Chip Hunnicut told me his .25 bounces off at 15 yards... I have it at the 100 yard marker on my home range.
This thing is 3/4" thick more....I believe it is recycled tires...It is made in Canada....Tractor Supplyy has the 3'X4' on sale for $19.99 and is a bit thinner. This is 4'x6' and is $39
I planted some Knockout roses that will cover the back of the stop in 2 years....
Man is that thing heavy. I got it on the ground and could not mange to get it up and held for me to drill holes for bolts... It is awkward to do by yourself. I rolled it up and put it in the back of the truck and backed it up to do it.The .25 bounces off it at 30 yds, and Chip Hunnicut told me his .25 bounces off at 15 yards... I have it at the 100 yard marker on my home range.
This thing is 3/4" thick more....I believe it is recycled tires...It is made in Canada....Tractor Supplyy has the 3'X4' on sale for $19.99 and is a bit thinner. This is 4'x6' and is $39
I planted some Knockout roses that will cover the back of the stop in 2 years....
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