MY NEW KRAL BREAKER SILENT BULL PUP...HONEST REVIEW!

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Yep was going to order it, but didn't may be able to open one side to use the Kral rod piece but it seemed to need a smaller diameter threaded end.

It makes me think that there were generation 1 & 2 or something because this one comes with that side bracket that you'll have to use a punch to take it off, it will work though it's not going to be the drop in easily like it was with the lever Strikefast used.
 
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This one isn't a fit, see the difference..
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Ed, I looked at the schematic you posted and the one you looked at I believe was DP453? If it was it is the pin that hold the link to the bolt not the lever. The one shown to the lever does not have a number on it. It may be the same bolt/pin..but I can't say as it not marked.

Kkarmical, what the hell? I believe they don't make the Blizzard anymore. You may be rt about a gen 1 and 2... Need to ck that. The one Will had may have been sitting in his inventory of part for a while since I don't think Evanix makes the Blizzard anymore.

Wow,, what a mess Kral made with that soft lever.... Hopefully you can make it work, as it is a solid lever....

 
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Kkarmical, your pic above shows your OEM lever is still bent.... I straightened mine out and it was not exact. The Blizzard lever was a tad longer between the post holes.

That was why I needed to drill that back pivot hole. Is there enough meat to drill it up one more size like 13/64" ?

When I put the lever on before drilling, I was only able to close the lever flush with a bit of force. When I did, the probe's brass section came out if the breech about 3/16" into the mag well. It would work, but I was afraid the pressure on the spring would cause fatigue. After drilling the back pivot hole, the brass section is flush or a fingernails width out. The gun cycles fine, the mags rotate smooth, and the gun seems more consistent. 

Hopefully you can figure how to get it drilled to work the probe like that. 

Looks like Silentmatt is about to finish his levers.....might be prudent to get his.

Good luck guys......
 
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Kkarmical, can you straightened out the OEM lever and put them side by side like I did in my pic back a page. Put the front post holes equal so that the lever difference will show at the back piviot hole in the top of the pic.

I am curious about the Blizzard being different than mine. I need to ck with Will about that and would like to see how far off it is from mine. Thanks...
 
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Paul-DP453 is listed as a "pin" in the description below but it's actually a shouldered sleeve or bushing. At least that's what it looks like to me. If you hover over that part of the schematic you see it more clearly & you can also click on the pic where the part is listed. Having seen "Kk's" pic and referring back to the diagram it's shown just as it is, with the front "leg" much shorter than the rear one I don't see any way it'll work. That was difficult to notice in the diagram but the difference IS there. Either there were 2 or more different Blizzard versions or maybe Will made a mistake and yours is from a different Evanix gun. ??? After I ordered the lever and mentioned it on GTA a guy told me I should've ordered the lever from the Evanix Sniper. I tried to find that part just to compare but didn't have any luck. I just checked and my lever arrived at my local post office a couple hours ago, will probably be delivered tomorrow but I really don't expect to make it work. Bummer. Oh well, shtuff happens and with all the crap sitting on my desk it'll make an outstanding paper weight.
Just to be perfectly clear I'm NOT upset with you AT ALL. I thought about that post I made last night and hope you knew I wuz just razzing you. You were just trying to help out and in the scheme of things this ain't nuttin'. Thankfully Matt has a used oem one on the way and maybe that'll last until I can get one of his new replacements when they're done. Just a damned shame Kral couldn't have made the part out of the proper material. I also have a new Hatsan BullBoss to satisfy my bullpup needs for now, nice rifle!
Sorry for this long boring post!

Ed
 
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Didn't think anyone was mad at me Ed. Long ago in the beginning of the thread I put out the disclaimer that what works for me may not fir someone else.... 

Will Piatt is the Koren gun Guru and I don't think he gave me the lever from another gun. I will ck with him later to be sure. 

And damn! I did not pay attention to the short back piviot hole in KK''s pic. I was just looking at the distances between them and noticed the OEM was bent..... 

that shirt leg would be a problem as it won't lay flat to the receiver with the OEM home position.
 
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I'm not mad, took a shot, didn't work, some do some don't but you never know unless you try. Matt was always plan A, this was plan B or in case my lever snapped while waiting for a replacement lever to made.

Not the first time 'ol Army guy has been followed a couple of 'Sams' Misguided to an outcome not seen nor expected, at least this time I don't have my hands on the hood of a Police car, explaining my side of what just happened 😄
 
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Hello! Wondering if any is experiencing this problem. I have a Kral Puncher. Does anyone know why the power drops immediately after refilling the air? I swear this wasn't happening when it first got it. I've posted a pic of a recent target which shows the power drop. The green is me sighting my scope. The orange at the bottom is immediately after air refill. The yellow is after 3 or 4 shots. 
 
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Not positive if I'm understanding you correctly, but I'll give it a shot....

Non regulated guns shoot on a curve. When you fill them, you get more pressure pushing the valve closed. If you chronograph the gun, you should
see lower velocities at first and then they'll raise as you shoot until they start dropping off as you lose pressure.
 
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