MY NEW KRAL BREAKER SILENT BULL PUP...HONEST REVIEW!

Smaug, excellent is for the performance in the shooting and ES SD figures. The rest is really an annoyance. A non regulated gun at that price point, getting those figures and accuracy, makes it excellent in anyone's book. IMHO.

You will be hard pressed to find another out of the box rifle with these numbers.. unless a top brand and at least a thousand dollars+.

Really is shocked the hell out of me when I ran with it. I expected mediocre results in efficiency and accuracy. It blew me away. Is it my favorite gun. No. Just another to in the chest. My Steyer, hell yes...

The "issues" I stated are no way major, especially in comparison to the performance. Again we are talking about a $500 gun. The problem with the 2 screws backing were fixed with a $3 thread locker tube. The trigger is good, and the. Power adaquate for hunting. That issue may have just been particular to this gun.

So excellent is relative to performance.......
 
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Strikefast, 
There are a couple of tuners working with them.
BWaltonpcp-
TroyHammer - I believe this is where Smaug got his

I got my .22 worked over by Travis at WAR, I can't say enough good things
about it.
He flips the shroud to the short end, able to fit more baffles in that way, it's really quiet. I'm finally going to have time tonight to shoot strings I had to order more pellets, shot count unregulated is amazing from data I've seen online I believe Travis posted up 50 @ 40 fpe from a .25 he was working on, I mean come on I have a .25 Marauder bullpup with 3x $$ into it to get it there.
 
Ok Cd, to remove the stock, use the supplied lg allen wrench to go in the hole in the pistol grip backwards! Yes upside down. You will put the hook end through the cap and then use it to pull the pistol grip cap off by slamming it upward to pop it off.Then you reverse it and unscrew the bolt counter clockwise. I usually have to lightly slap the rear of the stock to get it to come off. as mine is tight to the action.


In this photo i show you the adjusting screw in the rear of the action that you turn clockwise to increase the hammer tension.. The top slotted fitting. The lower plug is the access to the valve assembly.



Here you can see the hammer spring as you tighten or loosen the tension.



Here is the two adjusting points for the trigger.

 
CD try reversing that hammer adjustment a little. I had the same thing happen to me and it seems the spring only want to go so far then the lever will not function . Why i don't know. I have not gotten into the internals yet. i might start with a stronger spring that would add the hammer pressure sooner with less travel of the spring..
 
Kkrmichal, I will look into the flipping of the shroud. I know there is a grub screw that holds the threaded section of the barrel to the shroud. I am at 35.5 FPE at 48 on POI shots. I could call it 50 as the drop is only about 1/4" to 1/2" and then starts to go to 1" + after that . So only 4.5 FPE lower with the hammer spring adjustment. And yes, the performance data is really impressive. Kral has some magic in the valve to get that kid of ES SD from an unregulated gun. I am almost afraid to take it out as it may not perform the same afterward... Glad you say the baddles made it quiet. I was wondering as i have the baffles on the way.... Thanks for your information

Now that's the kind of response I was hoping to elicit... More please!
 
CD, the trigger actuator rod won't move. The action of cocking back the hammer allows the dear to come up to stop the hammer from going back. Then when you pull the trigger, the rod pulls the link to the actuator, the actuator forces up on the sear at its rear of the pivot point and pulls the front down from the front of the hammer, letting it come forward to hit the valve poppet. I am loading a pic of the actuator and sear out of the gun so you will see how this works very simple. Need to load to Photobucket first so it would be a few minutes...
 
Ok I just removed the trigger actuator and the sear. Apparently I believe it can be made to be a very light trigger by polishing off the paint that is present on the sear.?? and using a lighter spring. The sear is a pretty straight piece of steel that needs a slight a rounding as it is slightly sharp. The actuator may need some polishing too. I will update tomorrow after I get a lighter spring and apply, and test.
It is time for bed now....