MY NEW KRAL BREAKER SILENT BULL PUP...HONEST REVIEW!
- Thread starter Pauls Custom Targets
- Start date
Cool! The two need to be adjusted at the same time to get the best power and trigger. If you have a trigger gauge, Turn the trigger until you reach 1.5 lbs. That is good for hunting without pulling the shot when squeezed. At least for me
I adjusted the hammer down tension to get the speed to 792 FPS. That make the for at 35.5 +-
You will need to leave the stock off and do the trigger first. Then the hammer. As you increase the hammer the cocking lever may lock or not. When it reaches that point, just back it out a little at a time until the lever satys back. Also slap the action on the side at that point with the gun cocked, but unloaded. If it dry fires on the hand slap, back the hammer spring a tiny bit out, until it does not do that.
Now your safety may not work with the hammer/trigger at your optimum. I am going to work on that too, after I mod the trigger group. I will repost on my results...
Glad it worked out. Most problems with these guns are simple to figure.
Like the think tank in Washington, you figure out all the ideas of what it can't be, and then what's left is usually the problem....
I adjusted the hammer down tension to get the speed to 792 FPS. That make the for at 35.5 +-
You will need to leave the stock off and do the trigger first. Then the hammer. As you increase the hammer the cocking lever may lock or not. When it reaches that point, just back it out a little at a time until the lever satys back. Also slap the action on the side at that point with the gun cocked, but unloaded. If it dry fires on the hand slap, back the hammer spring a tiny bit out, until it does not do that.
Now your safety may not work with the hammer/trigger at your optimum. I am going to work on that too, after I mod the trigger group. I will repost on my results...
Glad it worked out. Most problems with these guns are simple to figure.
Like the think tank in Washington, you figure out all the ideas of what it can't be, and then what's left is usually the problem....
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Thanks Dartagnan for the video, appreciate it! And thanks again Strikefast for keeping us updated on your adjustments and mods. Really appreciate you taking the time.
CD-Glad you got 'er cocking with Strikefast's help!
I ordered my Kral Breaker Silent Bull Pup (that's a mouthful!) from PA last night. Should be here by Wednesday. I'm in Michigan & usually get guns from them one day after they ship.
CD-Glad you got 'er cocking with Strikefast's help!
I ordered my Kral Breaker Silent Bull Pup (that's a mouthful!) from PA last night. Should be here by Wednesday. I'm in Michigan & usually get guns from them one day after they ship.
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That's cool OldCorps.. I think you will like. Filling target orders rt now and will hit that trigger mod in a bit. I fails to find a small enough diameter spring in my gunsmithing supplies or at the hardware store. I will try that switch of springs first. I hate to cut the sear spring until I exhaust all avenues.
OldCorp... Just reference to old ways or U.S. Marines? Former Marine here too if so. Just been out for a long time ... Good Luck with the new toy....
OldCorp... Just reference to old ways or U.S. Marines? Former Marine here too if so. Just been out for a long time ... Good Luck with the new toy....
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Good write-up.
I have to say that a 1.5 lb trigger on a $500 bullpup is not bad at all imo. I wouldn't have put that in the "ugly" section. The triggers on some of the other guns I have owned in that price range have been a good bit heavier. It's not a "match trigger" but it isn't trying to be. I'd be very happy with a 1.5lb trigger on a $500 hunting air gun. It won't throw off your shot on a gun that heavy at all.
On a separate note, I don't think there would be any reason to make the trigger heavier than your preference on a hunting rifle if it's a two-stage trigger. The second stage gives you that extra little bit of "safety" but it's a non-issue anyway because the gun has a safety if you have to walk around with the gun cocked. Personally, I don't usually cock my air guns until I'm ready to shoot.
I think the Kral benefits from having a larger reservoir and that lower power level. I think that's why you get the lower ES and higher shot count. It makes sense on an unregulated gun to minimize the variation in pressure between shots by draining less air. It would be an interesting experiment to see how it does with the typical 45-50 fpe you get on other 25 cal guns. My guess would be that you'd lose some of the magic.
The important thing is that it's working well for you at the level it's at. It's giving you accuracy and shot count while allowing you to take the game you are hunting cleanly. Those facts alone would make me want to leave it alone. The extra shots per fill and lower es will probably deliver more of noticeable benefit than an extra 5fpe.
I could see these Kral guns replacing the Crossman products as the staring point for people who enjoy working on project guns. They seem to offer everything you get in performance in a far more stylish-looking package imo. I particularly like how they don't add $200 to the price just because it's a bullpup. I also appreciate the Turkish Walnut option without a price premium.
Now I'm not sure if these are a bargain or the other brands are just too expensive... either way, I like where it's going!
I have to say that a 1.5 lb trigger on a $500 bullpup is not bad at all imo. I wouldn't have put that in the "ugly" section. The triggers on some of the other guns I have owned in that price range have been a good bit heavier. It's not a "match trigger" but it isn't trying to be. I'd be very happy with a 1.5lb trigger on a $500 hunting air gun. It won't throw off your shot on a gun that heavy at all.
On a separate note, I don't think there would be any reason to make the trigger heavier than your preference on a hunting rifle if it's a two-stage trigger. The second stage gives you that extra little bit of "safety" but it's a non-issue anyway because the gun has a safety if you have to walk around with the gun cocked. Personally, I don't usually cock my air guns until I'm ready to shoot.
I think the Kral benefits from having a larger reservoir and that lower power level. I think that's why you get the lower ES and higher shot count. It makes sense on an unregulated gun to minimize the variation in pressure between shots by draining less air. It would be an interesting experiment to see how it does with the typical 45-50 fpe you get on other 25 cal guns. My guess would be that you'd lose some of the magic.
The important thing is that it's working well for you at the level it's at. It's giving you accuracy and shot count while allowing you to take the game you are hunting cleanly. Those facts alone would make me want to leave it alone. The extra shots per fill and lower es will probably deliver more of noticeable benefit than an extra 5fpe.
I could see these Kral guns replacing the Crossman products as the staring point for people who enjoy working on project guns. They seem to offer everything you get in performance in a far more stylish-looking package imo. I particularly like how they don't add $200 to the price just because it's a bullpup. I also appreciate the Turkish Walnut option without a price premium.
Now I'm not sure if these are a bargain or the other brands are just too expensive... either way, I like where it's going!
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OldCorp, a little before me I signed my DD214 in 1974. Headquarters Co. H&S Battalion 2nd.
No action in Nam as it was winding down when I joined. ... Only excitement was being prepped for the middle East rt after ITR training at Camp Geiger....Never happened!
Hey Pyramid Air is having a free 20for 20 test if you buy a gun right now. Would be good for your Kral
No action in Nam as it was winding down when I joined. ... Only excitement was being prepped for the middle East rt after ITR training at Camp Geiger....Never happened!
Hey Pyramid Air is having a free 20for 20 test if you buy a gun right now. Would be good for your Kral
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well of course it took a marine to fix a navy guys bullpup if i read the post correctly Senior chief (E-8) retired
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Zebra, I agree that the 1.5 I'd fine on a hunting gun. I keep my powder burners rt about there.
On all my air guns the heaviest trigger pull I have is 8.8 oz. My Styer is at 2.6 oz. I know others who have it lower. I do a lot of competition shooting and need the lat pull. With the Kral I would prefer around 8 oz just because I am used to it. But I can live with the 1.5 lb. And you are right. I don't really intend to worry about the higher power as I said because the efficiency, and certainly the accuracy are at a superior level and I don't want to screw with that. The KISS principle works for me all the time........lol. Thank for your input.....
On all my air guns the heaviest trigger pull I have is 8.8 oz. My Styer is at 2.6 oz. I know others who have it lower. I do a lot of competition shooting and need the lat pull. With the Kral I would prefer around 8 oz just because I am used to it. But I can live with the 1.5 lb. And you are right. I don't really intend to worry about the higher power as I said because the efficiency, and certainly the accuracy are at a superior level and I don't want to screw with that. The KISS principle works for me all the time........lol. Thank for your input.....
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CD you just cracked me up with that....We are all on the same side remember. We just played with small arms more. You guys played with the BIG guns....Really big! Lol
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yeah i know as i spent 4 years on Oki assigned to staff duty with ComPhib 1 and was a Ngfs specialist
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I've heard that Steyr triggers are the best (or among the best) found on an air gun (if you have one of their ball-bearing triggers). It would have been a tough act to follow for any air gun.
Apparently replacing the trigger with a lighter after-market one is not beyond the wit of man for a diy project. As you are a tinkerer, perhaps you could give it a try as part of your project upgrades to make it more to your taste.
Everyone has their preferences for the type of trigger. I also like a lighter one on guns that are accurate enough for it to matter. I'm a bit of an odd one out though I n that I prefer single stage triggers. If pure accuracy is the primary goal, I believe the least amount of weight and travel possible would be optimal. If I ever mess up under the pressure of taking a hunting shot, it's usually from losing concentration during trigger travel.
I'd like to be more of a tinkerer but I don't have the equipment . If one of the big stores like PA started selling premium drop-in barrel replacements and offered a regulator install option when you checked out (like WildWest does with the JKhan), it would totally changed the proposition for some of these entry-level guns.
Hatsan offers a LW barrel option for the AT44 and BT65 in Europe but Hatsan USA, in their infinite wisdom, decided that Americans shouldn't have that option.
I'd like to have a look at the stocks on one of these Kral guns at some point. I'd like to know if the Turkish Walnut versions are as nice as they look in the pics and how rigid the synthetic ones are.
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Zebra, I agree on a single stage trigger on all my comp guns. The hunting ones too. But this Kral., As simple as it appeared, is giving me fits. I got is lighter with switching the actuator spring to the sear and finding a close diameter ball point pen spring for the actuator.
All was well in cocking and trigger,....Until I put the stock back on. Then I have CD's problem of it not cocking and catching the Hammer...
After taking it back to original settings , it still does the same. Something on the stock is interfering with the trigger group. I just can't figure it out! It starts when the stock gets almost on in the rear.
I thought the actuator bar was bending and tripping the sear all the time. I took the stock off and pressed it and bent it as far as the air tube. But it cocked anyway as the stock was off. So it is something else ... I need to take a break and then go back at it with fresh eyes....At this point even replacing the original springs and positions will not work .. I'm sure it is something simple that I did to cause this.....
All was well in cocking and trigger,....Until I put the stock back on. Then I have CD's problem of it not cocking and catching the Hammer...
After taking it back to original settings , it still does the same. Something on the stock is interfering with the trigger group. I just can't figure it out! It starts when the stock gets almost on in the rear.
I thought the actuator bar was bending and tripping the sear all the time. I took the stock off and pressed it and bent it as far as the air tube. But it cocked anyway as the stock was off. So it is something else ... I need to take a break and then go back at it with fresh eyes....At this point even replacing the original springs and positions will not work .. I'm sure it is something simple that I did to cause this.....
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When I first looked at the the week before last, I noticed that the .177 was out in all the bull pups. They had the .22 and .25....
Guess the word is spreading about how well they shoot.....
Glad I got mine when I did then. And it was a spur of the moment thing. Had Pay Pal money burning a hole in my laptop.....lHa..
Guess the word is spreading about how well they shoot.....
Glad I got mine when I did then. And it was a spur of the moment thing. Had Pay Pal money burning a hole in my laptop.....lHa..
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yea I was gonna get a tuned one(blk & silver) from Travis @ War. but I snoozed & loosed, he wont have any till almost end of april , hopefully my Colibri H/bird will be back before then & I wont need the KPb. but I am subscribed to 3 forums on the kpb, & enjoy reading about them, keep the post's coming
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