My new P35

[Sky King]

True I'm told that this is the same thing as the Stoeger XM 1 Bullshark. Stoeger tells me that it's not regulated. Other people have said it is regulated. I bought one and returned it because Stoeger told me it was not regulated. There is no external means to adjust the regulator if there is one and there is no gauge, a separate gauge for a regulator if it has one. I only shoot regulated air guns, so I bought a Air Venturi Avenger Bullpup in .177, which is regulated, has an external adjustment for the regulator as well as an externally accessible air release, and of course has an adjustable hammer spring. I am extremely pleased and I'm attaching here a recent five and 10 shot group, the one on the left should be the five shot group, and the one on the right is the 10 shot group. From 100 feet which is the most I can do in my backyard. So can somebody clear this up for me? Is the P 35/Stoeger XM1 Bullshark regulated and if so why doen't it have a gauge for the regulator nor a means to externally adjust it?

None of the marketing material for the XM1 nor the P 35 mentions that it is regulated.

The listing on Amazon, which is where I purchased my Stoeger XM1 does not mention that it's regulated.

On a related note, Pyramyd Air has a deal going now with an Air Venturi Avenger with hard case and Hawke scope for $499.

 

[Spike_9]

Unless Stoeger had SPA change the valve design, they are all regulated. The P15 and P35 use the same valve/reg combo and the bullshark doesn't look any different.

 

[mackeral5]

Plenum pressure gauges and external regulator adjustment are features on SOME guns, not all. Only in recent years have these features become available on entry level guns...

 

[Nattboy]

If you go to page 17 of the Stoeger XM 1 owner's manual it states that the XM 1 Bull Shark is a pcp with integrated regulator.

 

[JimD]

I've attached an exploded view of the P35 which lists the parts. I have changed the regulator setting on my P35-25. The gun comes with the tool to remove the tank pressure gauge and you then pull the nut off the end of the air tube. It is threaded on. Once the tube is open, you use a 12mm socket on an extension to reach the lock nut and then a long straight bladed screwdriver to rotate the regulator. I moved mine about 1/4 turn and reduced fps by maybe 35 fps. Mine needed a new O-ring on the big nut that seals the tube and a smaller O-ring on the back of that nut which is the one way valve. I tried re-using them and it leaked. Much more involved than changing my Avenger's setting but not terribly hard.

The documentation on the P35 and the related Bullshark is about as bad as it gets. It doesn't tell you how to set the trigger or change the regulator or much of anything. The P35 is the P15 with the cocking lever in the middle. So youtubes on the P15 are generally applicable. The Bullshark is a P35 with a 490mm barrel (instead of 450mm) and a different stock.

I hope you like your Avenger. I have a long one and it is a good gun - just really long. I like the greater use of metal in the P35 and the fact that is much easier to make it quiet. The the Avenger has it's good points too - like the externally adjustable regulator and a gauge on the regulated chamber.

The me the lack of a gauge on the regulated chamber is more of an annoyance than a real issue. All you have to do is shoot it until the fps starts to decrease and then note the pressure in the storage chamber. It's not terribly precise, all three of mine fall off gradually. But nothing bad happens if you shoot below the regulator setting. I made some good shots on a 30 yard challenge target yesterday when I know I was below the regulator of my P35-22. POI was not affected at all at 30 yards. Eventually it would be but I was about 15 bar below the regulator setting when I quit so I shot about 10 shots off the regulator. A general idea of when to refill is all you really need.

View attachment Exploded View for P35 (1).pdf

 

[Sky King]

View attachment 178177I bought an Artemis (aka Snow Peak) P35 less than 2 weeks ago from Krale in the Netherlands. They got it to me in 4 working days. The key reason I got it is I shoot from the left shoulder because I am left eye dominant and, unlike other reasonably priced bullpups, it has the cocking handle in the middle and a flush magazine on the right (where my face is). Key features:

About 28 inches long (with 450mm barrel)

About 5.2 lbs

Regulated

265cc air chamber, I get 70 30+ fpe shots with a 3500 fill

Rated for 250 bar fill

8 shot magazine (it comes with one)

It comes with a complete set of seals and tools to maintain it.

Not everything is roses, of course. The magazine is a little balky and I want more than one. CARM makes them but not currently a flush fit 25 caliber. The manual is almost useless. There is a facebook group but otherwise you pretty much have to figure things out yourself.

I'm getting groups about 1/4 inch center to center when I do my part at 25 and 33 yards with H&N FTT and .250 34 grain Slug HP (also H&N). I ordered some lighter H&N slugs in .249 to see if that diameter also works. Velocity is only about 650 fps with the slugs and about 850 fps with the FTT. FPE is about the same for both preferred projectiles.

I bought mine on Amazon. However, Stoeger told me that it was not regulated. I accepted that, because there was no apparent means to adjust the regulator. If there was one, externally, and there was no obvious way to adjust the hammer spring. There was no gauge for any regulator. So what’s the use of “being regulated“ if the user can’t tune, the regulator and hammer spring to get their desired result. After I returned it, I bought an Air Venturi Avenger in .177, from Pyramyd,Air for about the same price as the Stoeger Bullshark. I think I already uploaded some examples of the accuracy of the Avenger at 100 feet, but in case I didn’t, or you didn’t see it, I’ll put it here. I am very happy with the Avenger because, at the moment, my shooting skills need more development, so I am the weak link in the chain. Pryamyd Air has a sale going on now on an Avenger with a synthetic regular stock, a Hawke scope, and a hard case for $499

 

[Sky King]

My rifles are still stuck in Kentucky with UPS. I spent about an hour on the phone trying to find somebody at UPS that would actually look at the situation but was finally successful. They claim there is an error on the invoice in the tarriff field. So I sent another email to Krale but they had not responded to my request from yesterday so I decided to call them. I think that will turn out better. They found the order and said they would contact UPS and sort it out. So I have some reason for hope. Krale is convinced it is not their error and note that they make several shipments to the U. S. a day so they know how to do the forms. Makes sense but is different from what UPS says. Maybe a problem with a customs person?

But my suggestion is if you have an issue with a Krale shipment to call them. They may reply eventually to emails (they promise within 5 days) but I found it not very satisfying. I don't know what a call to the Netherlands will cost me but if it's a few bucks and gets me the rifles sooner it will be money well spent in my mind at this point. I had to call twice to get through but once I did it did not take long to speak to a person who spoke english clearly and seemed knowledgable.

I won't get the credit card bill for the rifles for over a week so I will give it a day or two before calling the credit card company and reversing the charges. Hopefully I will not have to do that but it has worked before to get a merchant's attention.

Last time I had no issue.

One of the reasons I bought my air, guns on Amazon and Pyramyd Air is because if there’s a problem, each of those companies will resolve it quickly. When I found out that the Stoeger Bukkshark did not have a regulator gauge, or an external way to adjust the regulator, as well as the hammer spring, I returned it to Amazon and bought my Avenger, for about the same money, add Pyramid Air.

 

[Sky King]

Scott,

I'd be interested in what you find. I fire polished the barrel twice with JB and I think it helped. But you will undoubtedly remove the barrel and do a complete polish. I think it's rough but that's just a guess because I did not slug it or boroscope it.

I think it is just an upgraded, slightly, P15, but I do not have a P15 to compare it to so that is just what I hear.

I took the trigger assembly completely apart by mistake. I first tried to eliminate the first stage by adjusting the lever that transfers the trigger pull to the rear. I could do it but the safety would not work if I did. It is just a trigger block safety. So I put it back but possibly not exactly like before. In any event, it needed the length of the bar shortened 1/2 turn after ~50 shots and I did not diagnose that as the issue at first when the gun wouldn't fire. So I took it completely apart. The small parts look to be investment cast and were pretty smooth. Definitely steel like the housing. I thought the machining in the recess for the trigger parts was kind of rough so I filed it smoother. There is a nice little hole that seems designed to let you put a drop of lubricant on the sear engagement point. The only trigger adjustment is a 3mmx.5x6mm screw that adjusts sear engagement. I want a 8mm but messed up the McMaster Carr order so I will have to reorder one. The 6mm one will get the trigger to where I want it but doesn't stick out far enough to use the lock nut. I could put a drop of blue locktite on it but prefer to just get a slightly longer screw. The rod I was messing with the length of has a really tiny C-clip on it that you have to remove to change the length or remove the trigger assembly. I lost one and ordered 100 replacements.

I have not taken anything else apart except the butt pad (to lengthen the pull). The rubber part of mine popped off the grey piece at the top and then slid off at the bottom. The grey piece is secured with two screws. I will probably order a replacement butt pad to lengthen the pull without the wood spacer I added. There is a guy, I think he's in England, that prints them whatever width you want. He also offers a lower cheek piece and a few other things. I found his website in the Artemis facebook group.

I did modify the moderator based upon Aaron Cantrell's design (he does youtubes). It was surprising how much difference it made. I went from 85-88 db to less than 70db but left the gun at about 75db. Aaron just cut really cheap hair curlers from the dollar store, cut in half, with felt and then put them into the metal baffles that come in the moderator. You can slide the moderator forward to use more of these curler/baffle combinations. The quietest was about a 1 7/8 longer gun for me. I left it with one less combination and less than 1/2 inch longer than stock. With another one removed I can be stock length but still at least 5 db quieter than stock. For backyard use, I thought stock was OK for me but 10db less is even better to avoid unnecessarily alarming neighbors.

I also tried different hammer spring settings and think I improved accuracy with 1/4 turn less. I've read the regulator can be adjusted but you have to remove the end of the air chamber where the gauge is to get to it. And then have a really long screwdriver. Probably weld something up if I ever mess with it. The gun comes with the tool to remove the end of the air chamber. My regulator, on my 25, seems to be set about 110 bar.

Jim

When you say that you improved accuracy with 1/4 turn Les on the hammer spring, which direction was that clockwise or anti-clockwise and do you know how far from either extreme that ended up?

 

[Sky King]

Crash I'm glad you got yours. I'm still waiting. My hammer spring was low for my regulator setting as received. It gave me a long shot string (like 70 shots) but it seemed to mess up the regulator a bit and the first shot was always a bit off on velocity. I increased it and it settled down - might be something to look for. My regulator also seems to control velocity better now that my 25 has over 1000 shots through it. I ended up turning my regulator down 1/4 turn because I was up over 900 fps on H&N FTT which in 25 caliber are unusually light. Now I'm at 850-880 depending on temperature and the shot string is back up around 70 shots on a 250 bar fill.

The weight is one of the key reasons I like the P35. Why are other guns so heavy? P35 doesn't have plastic all over the place like my Avenger. The Avenger bullpup is also not very light from what I read.

I have the .177 Bullshark tomorrow I will receive a 25 caliber Bullshark. I don't intend to mess with the regulator because I don't want to take everything apart and I know it's set at 120 bar. I'm interested in the hammer spring adjustment. Where is your hammer spring set for best accuracy in .177 and or .25 in reference from either extreme all in or all out, i.e. like one turn from all in (is that clockwise or counter clockwise) or what? And what did you do with accuracy as you adjusted it and what kind of feet per second?

 

[JimD]

On my unregulated Prod I define my tune with the number of turns on the hammer spring, the transfer port size, and the number of turns on the hammer throw screw. But on my regulated guns, it is the regulator setting. I always change the hammer spring up or down to be close to the point where the velocity is maximum. I don't know or care how many turns from minimum or maximum that setting is. After I find the point where velocity is maximum I turn the hammer spring up up to 1 turn and down up to 1 turn in 1/4 turn increments and check accuracy. On my P35s, it made no difference so I set it about at maximum, slightly under. On my Avenger, 1/4 turn above the point where velocity was maximized made a significant difference in accuracy.

My 177 was set to about 120 bar, maybe a bit less. But my 22 and 25 were set to about 135. That seemed like a bit much for the FTTs I shoot in my 25 so I turned it down 1/4 turn. Velocity is about 875 fps. For 25 grain pellets the stock setting would be fine. Heavier pellets could probably use a little higher setting. Velocity of 34 grain was over 700 fps but well under 800 fps. I like to keep them 800-900.

It is not hard to get into the air chamber to change the regulator. My 177 developed a leak and I changed the three O-rings on the front end of the gun which is the same path on fathers day - Sunday. You open the bleed screw on the back end of the airtube to let the air out. Then use the supplied tool to remove the air gauge (the tool look like a little piece of tubing but it is really a thin socket). The first O-ring is under that gauge. Then you screw out the big nut the gauge mounts to. If you put the fill port into the hole in the nut you can turn it to remove it. It is normal right hand threads. There is a big O-ring on the back of the nut and the one-way valve is another O-ring on the back of the nut. I would change all these O-rings if you go in there to change the regulator. I did not the first time I did it and it leaked badly. With new O-rings, no problem. An advantage of doing this is you can put your fill port horizontal like they should have done at the factory. Up to you where you stop turning the nut in, there is no shoulder, but remember you have to get the fill port in. If you use it to screw it in you can't go too far.

I would try FTTs and Baracuda Match (both H&N) in your new gun but JSBs may also shoot well.

 

[Sky King]

On my unregulated Prod I define my tune with the number of turns on the hammer spring, the transfer port size, and the number of turns on the hammer throw screw. But on my regulated guns, it is the regulator setting. I always change the hammer spring up or down to be close to the point where the velocity is maximum. I don't know or care how many turns from minimum or maximum that setting is. After I find the point where velocity is maximum I turn the hammer spring up up to 1 turn and down up to 1 turn in 1/4 turn increments and check accuracy. On my P35s, it made no difference so I set it about at maximum, slightly under. On my Avenger, 1/4 turn above the point where velocity was maximized made a significant difference in accuracy.

My 177 was set to about 120 bar, maybe a bit less. But my 22 and 25 were set to about 135. That seemed like a bit much for the FTTs I shoot in my 25 so I turned it down 1/4 turn. Velocity is about 875 fps. For 25 grain pellets the stock setting would be fine. Heavier pellets could probably use a little higher setting. Velocity of 34 grain was over 700 fps but well under 800 fps. I like to keep them 800-900.

It is not hard to get into the air chamber to change the regulator. My 177 developed a leak and I changed the three O-rings on the front end of the gun which is the same path on fathers day - Sunday. You open the bleed screw on the back end of the airtube to let the air out. Then use the supplied tool to remove the air gauge (the tool look like a little piece of tubing but it is really a thin socket). The first O-ring is under that gauge. Then you screw out the big nut the gauge mounts to. If you put the fill port into the hole in the nut you can turn it to remove it. It is normal right hand threads. There is a big O-ring on the back of the nut and the one-way valve is another O-ring on the back of the nut. I would change all these O-rings if you go in there to change the regulator. I did not the first time I did it and it leaked badly. With new O-rings, no problem. An advantage of doing this is you can put your fill port horizontal like they should have done at the factory. Up to you where you stop turning the nut in, there is no shoulder, but remember you have to get the fill port in. If you use it to screw it in you can't go too far.

I would try FTTs and Baracuda Match (both H&N) in your new gun but JSBs may also shoot well.

I very much appreciate your generosity with this wealth of information. Can you tell me what "FTT" is? I have also had excellent results with the Baracuda Match and Baracuda Power.

So what happens once I get into where the regulator is how do I adjust it?

Are you telling me on the Bullshark that I can control hammer travel as well as hammer force? Which direction increases it in which direction decreases it?

As I understand you say unregulated Guns you just tune with the hammer is that correct?

And do you know on the bull shark if the trigger is adjustable in two stages?

Sandy

 

[timmah]

There was no gauge for any regulator. So what’s the use of “being regulated“ if the user can’t tune, the regulator and hammer spring to get their desired result.

Well for a lot of us, a chronograph is a much more important tool than a secondary regulator pressure gauge. I don't really need to know the regulator pressure. I turn down the regulator until I get the desired pellet speed or FPE, and then turn down the hammer spring until I see the speed drop off under regulation, then back it off until it just compensates for the drop off. I then refill the tank to full, and then run full shot string over the chrono to see how many shots can be had on the particular regulator and hammer spring settings (and to see what kind of consistency there are with the speeds.) So at that point I know how many mags/shots I can count on before the gun falls off the reg. I could care less what the actual PSI/BAR regulator reading is at that point.

 

[JimD]

Sandy,

Sorry for the abreviation. I use FTT as short hand for H&N Field, Trophy, and Target pellets. In H&N line, the FTTs are the lighter pellet and the Baracuda the heavier ones. In 25 the FTT is about 20 grains and the Baracuda 31 grains if I remember right.

I agree with "timmah" relative to a chronograph, I use mine to get the hammer spring setting right and also to tell where the regulator is set. When you go below the regulator setting the velocity starts to fall off. I you are doing a shot string at the time, you look at the pressure gauge and you know it's reading a little lower than the regulator setting. This process is not ultra precise on my P35s because the velocity goes down so gradually. But that also means I don't need to know the exact pressure setting of the regulator - nothing terrible happens if I go a little below it or fill before I get quite down to it.

If you open up the air tube as I described and look down inside at the other end you will see a nut, I think it's 12mm, that is the lock nut for the regulator. With a socket on a long extension you turn the nut to the left to loosen the nut. In the center of the nut is a slot you put a long screwdriver into to change the regulator setting. If you turn to the right, the regulator setting goes down. If you turn to the left, it goes up. I have always limited myself to turning 1/4 turn at a time. I wouldn't do over 1/2 a turn even if I wanted a big change. I don't know how much of a change the SPA regulator can handle so I don't want to make really big changes.

The first trigger adjustment you should make is to the first stage tension. If you take the gun out of the stock you will see a long rod connecting the trigger to the trigger block of parts in the rear of the gun. On that rod will be a coil spring that looks a lot like a ballpoint pen spring. There is a collar with a lock screw (allen headed) that holds that spring in compression. The more compression of that spring the stiffer your trigger is, both first and second stage. If you loosen the set screw and let the spring relax your trigger will go down by about a pound. You could also set it to still have a little tension by just pushing on the collar and tightening the set screw. There is no risk in messing with this spring. The other adjustment is the sear engagement. This is a trickier adjustment, you can cause the gun to go off on it's own. The sear screw is at the rear of the action. It sticks out of the block on the bottom of the action where the long rod goes. There is a lock nut and you turn it in (to the right) to decrease sear engagement and lighten the trigger. I do this but I leave the cocking handle open on my gun and when I try the trigger I hold onto the cocking handle so the gun doesn't go off. The gun is also unloaded. This is a bit like the regulator adjustment - I think it is best to go slow. You may find you need a longer sear screw for maximum reduction in sear engagement while also still being able to use the lock nut. I have all my P35 triggers at less than 1 lb. That is definitely light for hunting but I don't put my finger into the trigger guard until I am ready to shoot. Leaving it a big heavier is safer. You may find that just reducing the first stage spring is enough for you. My only other caution is while I think the P35 has a good trigger I don't think it's a match trigger, the variation in weight for where the gun goes off seems to be several ounces. So it might go off when you just touch it one time and take significantly more force the next time. This should only be an issue if you go for very little sear engagement - a really light trigger. I don't set them this light.

Jim

 

[Sky King]

Sandy,

Sorry for the abreviation. I use FTT as short hand for H&N Field, Trophy, and Target pellets. In H&N line, the FTTs are the lighter pellet and the Baracuda the heavier ones. In 25 the FTT is about 20 grains and the Baracuda 31 grains if I remember right.

I agree with "timmah" relative to a chronograph, I use mine to get the hammer spring setting right and also to tell where the regulator is set. When you go below the regulator setting the velocity starts to fall off. I you are doing a shot string at the time, you look at the pressure gauge and you know it's reading a little lower than the regulator setting. This process is not ultra precise on my P35s because the velocity goes down so gradually. But that also means I don't need to know the exact pressure setting of the regulator - nothing terrible happens if I go a little below it or fill before I get quite down to it.

If you open up the air tube as I described and look down inside at the other end you will see a nut, I think it's 12mm, that is the lock nut for the regulator. With a socket on a long extension you turn the nut to the left to loosen the nut. In the center of the nut is a slot you put a long screwdriver into to change the regulator setting. If you turn to the right, the regulator setting goes down. If you turn to the left, it goes up. I have always limited myself to turning 1/4 turn at a time. I wouldn't do over 1/2 a turn even if I wanted a big change. I don't know how much of a change the SPA regulator can handle so I don't want to make really big changes.

The first trigger adjustment you should make is to the first stage tension. If you take the gun out of the stock you will see a long rod connecting the trigger to the trigger block of parts in the rear of the gun. On that rod will be a coil spring that looks a lot like a ballpoint pen spring. There is a collar with a lock screw (allen headed) that holds that spring in compression. The more compression of that spring the stiffer your trigger is, both first and second stage. If you loosen the set screw and let the spring relax your trigger will go down by about a pound. You could also set it to still have a little tension by just pushing on the collar and tightening the set screw. There is no risk in messing with this spring. The other adjustment is the sear engagement. This is a trickier adjustment, you can cause the gun to go off on it's own. The sear screw is at the rear of the action. It sticks out of the block on the bottom of the action where the long rod goes. There is a lock nut and you turn it in (to the right) to decrease sear engagement and lighten the trigger. I do this but I leave the cocking handle open on my gun and when I try the trigger I hold onto the cocking handle so the gun doesn't go off. The gun is also unloaded. This is a bit like the regulator adjustment - I think it is best to go slow. You may find you need a longer sear screw for maximum reduction in sear engagement while also still being able to use the lock nut. I have all my P35 triggers at less than 1 lb. That is definitely light for hunting but I don't put my finger into the trigger guard until I am ready to shoot. Leaving it a big heavier is safer. You may find that just reducing the first stage spring is enough for you. My only other caution is while I think the P35 has a good trigger I don't think it's a match trigger, the variation in weight for where the gun goes off seems to be several ounces. So it might go off when you just touch it one time and take significantly more force the next time. This should only be an issue if you go for very little sear engagement - a really light trigger. I don't set them this light.

Jim

Thanks for a very detailed response.

My Bullshark in 25 arrived today. Here's an 8 shot group at 100 feet with JSB Exact Heavy King Mark II 33.95 grains. Took it out of the box, made sure the bore was spotless, made no changes to the hammer or anything else and this is the result. I am so happy. With such good group and I'm a little worried about messing with it however do you think I ought to work on the hammer to get the velocity up to about 860? I'm so happy with the accuracy that I'm a little worried about messing with it.

 

[JimD]

I agree, it is shooting well. I actually have a new barrel on order for my P35-25 and am hoping to get one that shoots like that - like my 22 and 177 do.

I would still check to see where your hammer spring is relative to your regulator. Your ES seems to be 12 fps which is a little high for a short shot string. I expect to see under 10 on a pellet my guns like and the last tests I did were under 5 fps (for 10 shots). That could be a sign your hammer spring is not well balanced to the regulator. My guess is you can start decreasing the hammer spring and the velocity will not go down. For awhile. I wouldn't be surprised if you can turn it down a full turn before velocity starts to decrease. But if it does go down, you can try turning it up a little and see how much of a velocity increase you get. I am pretty sure it will not adversely affect accuracy but if it does, you can go back.

I like to see velocity in the 800-900 range but my Prod won't do that and it still works fine. Velocity is around 750. It makes the trajectory a bit less flat. You have plenty of energy at over 40 fpe for small game, I think. You could try running your favorite trajectory program to see how much you could gain by going up a bit on velocity. If it seems flat enough to you you could certainly leave it as is. Did you test other pellets? H&Ns shoot better in mine and the Baracuda is a little lighter so your velocity should increase. Even the lighter Kings would be worth trying.

Depends a lot on what you want to do with it. I standardized, at least for now, on the light FTTs because they still shoot right through squirrels and with the regulator decreased I get about 70 shots on a fill. And they are accurate. But mine seemed to like the heavies from JSB too. But it's current barrel is so-so. Good enough for head shots on squirrels at short range but not so great at target shooting. You seem to have a target shooter.

 

[Sky King]

I agree, it is shooting well. I actually have a new barrel on order for my P35-25 and am hoping to get one that shoots like that - like my 22 and 177 do.

I would still check to see where your hammer spring is relative to your regulator. Your ES seems to be 12 fps which is a little high for a short shot string. I expect to see under 10 on a pellet my guns like and the last tests I did were under 5 fps (for 10 shots). That could be a sign your hammer spring is not well balanced to the regulator. My guess is you can start decreasing the hammer spring and the velocity will not go down. For awhile. I wouldn't be surprised if you can turn it down a full turn before velocity starts to decrease. But if it does go down, you can try turning it up a little and see how much of a velocity increase you get. I am pretty sure it will not adversely affect accuracy but if it does, you can go back.

I like to see velocity in the 800-900 range but my Prod won't do that and it still works fine. Velocity is around 750. It makes the trajectory a bit less flat. You have plenty of energy at over 40 fpe for small game, I think. You could try running your favorite trajectory program to see how much you could gain by going up a bit on velocity. If it seems flat enough to you you could certainly leave it as is. Did you test other pellets? H&Ns shoot better in mine and the Baracuda is a little lighter so your velocity should increase. Even the lighter Kings would be worth trying.

Depends a lot on what you want to do with it. I standardized, at least for now, on the light FTTs because they still shoot right through squirrels and with the regulator decreased I get about 70 shots on a fill. And they are accurate. But mine seemed to like the heavies from JSB too. But it's current barrel is so-so. Good enough for head shots on squirrels at short range but not so great at target shooting. You seem to have a target shooter.

Thank you again for your prompt, very detailed and very helpful responses. In the .177, my best most accurate results are the Baracuda Power at 10.65 grains, tied with the Baracuda Match at 10.65. So far as you saw in the .25 caliber, the best with a JSB heavies at 33.95 grains, followed closely by the Baracuda Hunter Extreme. I'll play around with the hammer today and let you know what the results are unless you really don't want to know and I don't mean that sarcastically. I'm sure you get too many requests for help.

Stay safe and well!

 

[JimD]

Please let me know how it goes.

 

[Florida_Man]

Doing some more pellet testing with my new P35 25 cal. I am going to test my theory that the Snowpeak pellets need more seasoning. They are what I shot the most before testing yesterday, and I started with them. They shot better groups yesterday. I finished yesterday with JSB, and started today with them.
25 yards 5 shot groups with a Hawke 3-12x Airmax

 

[JimD]

Looks like the plenum extension is a good idea, Florida_man. Assuming your velocities are like Sky Kings and you would also like to see them over 800 fps. I think we will loose less shots by extending the plenum than by increasing the regulator. Now that I have a 32 fpe 22 caliber P35 it seems like I should set my 25 caliber up higher in energy. 50 seems like a nice round number which would be the result of getting the 34 grain JSBs up around 820 fps. That seems doable. You are probably going a bit slower since his bullshark has a 40mm longer barrel but still low 800s seems reachable. Only questions would seem to be shot count and whether the transfer port needs opened up. I messed with the transfer port on my Prod but it seems harder to do on the P35. But with the plenum increase, probably a small regulator increase and possibly a transfer port increase I suspect we can get the 34 grain over 800, possibly even hit 850 fps. That would be a pretty potent P35. If the barrel is a good one it could even be a good target gun for 100 yards.

 

[Neu]

I goofed around with my 22 Bullshark and with the reg set at 120 with the Hammer spring spacer provided with the plenum I was able to get 25 grain up to 880 for 43ish fpe. I didn't leave it there long as I was worried about snapping the valve pin (a known weak point on these rifles). The ports are the limiting factor on mine I believe, anything above the 120 bar setting on the reg doesn't seem to really help no matter the hammer setting. Kinda curious if the 25 cal has larger ports or is the same as the 22.