Umarex My Notos first impressions
- Thread starter phoenix_cow
- Start date
How much of a pain is it to get to the transfer port? I'm interested in doing a port job, looks like it has given you guys good fps numbers. I have all the tools to do so, I have access to a machine shop.
It looks like a complete tear down of the gun is required, unless I'm missing something.
It looks like a complete tear down of the gun is required, unless I'm missing something.
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it isn’t too hard to get to the transfer port. the hardest part is getting that a specific o-ring back into place without biting a good amount of it off.
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yes a full takedown is required. this pin needs to come out for the entire poppet valve assembly to come out for porting
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I went back in and finished mine today.
Opened the TP, Chamferred the bottom, opened the valve port, slightly widened and polished part 66 port. I'm at 1800psi now and....
Full disclosure the next string was 767-778 with the NSA .2175 17.5grs. the 836-843 was 15.9 Bcuda. JTS DC 16.08 identical results. 15.9 Hades and exact.. 830-836
Opened the TP, Chamferred the bottom, opened the valve port, slightly widened and polished part 66 port. I'm at 1800psi now and....
Full disclosure the next string was 767-778 with the NSA .2175 17.5grs. the 836-843 was 15.9 Bcuda. JTS DC 16.08 identical results. 15.9 Hades and exact.. 830-836
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Degas notos thru loosening pressure gauge if still on tube, if dropblock: loosen fill nipple and bleed slow. Remove gas source. Remove trigger guard, Remove stock, remove hammer spring screw, followed by hammer spring and hammer. Remove front facing part 66 screw, remove rear screws while maintaining finger pressure on front because part 66 is under not insignificant valve spring tension and will fly with spring. Remove valve spring, remove valve stem, remove flathead screw on bottom where part 66 was, use 1.5mm Allen to take out grub that holds horizontal valve pin in. Knock valve pin out. Gently push valve out from hammer path in receiver... Voila.
Drill part 66 at slight upward angle being sure not to touch the M6 threaded apart of 66 nor the valve spring housing walls. Insert business end of drill bit through hole where flathead screw was... Carefully drill tp into breech. Voila. Ported..
I made the mistake of listening to the "get a 2200 psi regulator" this is incorrect. At this pressure HS tension at MAX is barely doing anything. In fact I get lower velocity at 2200 than 1800. Hammer spring tension does a good bit. I have an adjustable ref coming in next 4 days. Will report peak velocities that do not sacrifice harmony and pleasantry or notos use experience
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great job! easy peasy, right?
I may just have a newer one but there is a bleed screw on the left side near the front of receiver.
When drilling port, keep in mind, if you don’t remove the barrel and drill through it’s transfer port (which is fine and keeps that alignment correct), you will need to remove the barrel to debur the chamber.
Good luck!
Dave
When drilling port, keep in mind, if you don’t remove the barrel and drill through it’s transfer port (which is fine and keeps that alignment correct), you will need to remove the barrel to debur the chamber.
Good luck!
Dave
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It’s actually in the block at front of receiver and I made an adapter for a gauge for setting reg pressure.
Dave
Dave
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It's the silver hex head. I'm familiar. I've consistently been told "not a bleed screw".
Ive always used the gauge or fill nipple of my drop block reg.
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Just a couple observations, as I had two Notos. They are a joy to shoot and mod. Umarex hit the nail on the head big time.
1) The mags are junk, and anyone that has one has found this out. They work, but are hard to push a pellet in, especially the first pellet. The Maple mags are fantastic. Just a note, even though the Maple mags are closer to the US than Carm, I usually get Carms a few days faster? Go figure. Both are great and completely solve the problem.
2) The trigger is crude, but fixable, as long as you have realistic expectations. Both of mine needed the sear angle changed and it's something for someone who is willing to accept failure if you're not well versed in trigger geometry. I've done literally hundreds and hundreds of triggers in my lifetime, (I used to be a gunsmith), and it's not rocket science if you use common sense. The sear is HARD, which is good, do some stoning, and change the angle a tiny bit, and assemble and try, rinse and repeat til it's where you want it. I bought an extra sear to keep as a safety in case I messed the first one up, but didn't need it cause it took a lot of stoning. They can be completely acceptable, but will never be an Anschutz.
3) Both of mine were extremely accurate, and I had no poi changes. If you add a cf bottle, you should get a ton of shots and then can up the power without sacrificing shot count.
I think the Notos is the airgun world's 10/22 and will turn out to be modded by everyone to some degree. This is just great for the airgun world. It hits all the right specs, light, accurate, mid power, ..everything you need to make it your own. I see them selling very well and might be the biggest seller UX ever produced.
1) The mags are junk, and anyone that has one has found this out. They work, but are hard to push a pellet in, especially the first pellet. The Maple mags are fantastic. Just a note, even though the Maple mags are closer to the US than Carm, I usually get Carms a few days faster? Go figure. Both are great and completely solve the problem.
2) The trigger is crude, but fixable, as long as you have realistic expectations. Both of mine needed the sear angle changed and it's something for someone who is willing to accept failure if you're not well versed in trigger geometry. I've done literally hundreds and hundreds of triggers in my lifetime, (I used to be a gunsmith), and it's not rocket science if you use common sense. The sear is HARD, which is good, do some stoning, and change the angle a tiny bit, and assemble and try, rinse and repeat til it's where you want it. I bought an extra sear to keep as a safety in case I messed the first one up, but didn't need it cause it took a lot of stoning. They can be completely acceptable, but will never be an Anschutz.
3) Both of mine were extremely accurate, and I had no poi changes. If you add a cf bottle, you should get a ton of shots and then can up the power without sacrificing shot count.
I think the Notos is the airgun world's 10/22 and will turn out to be modded by everyone to some degree. This is just great for the airgun world. It hits all the right specs, light, accurate, mid power, ..everything you need to make it your own. I see them selling very well and might be the biggest seller UX ever produced.
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i just shoot till about 1000 psi then back out my hammer spring tensioning screw and proceed to shoot it down till the poppet valve can’t hold the hammer spring back. you can hear it hiss out the air when you get to that point. bleeding through the gauge always messes up my o-ring.
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Finished mine yesterday on the performance side. Now to finish the aesthetics. And I'm 90% done with that. I've ordered the buckrail AR grip and stock adapter. Doing the picatinny stock option and I'm probably just gonna slap a UMP stock. But I know it would look incredible if I spent the $200 on the Midwest industries AK74 paratrooper stock. Like this. 
Or the galil folder. Either or I'm gonna end up with a beautiful notos. Here is as is....
Or the galil folder. Either or I'm gonna end up with a beautiful notos. Here is as is....
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Looks good. It was my first choice. But I don't have 2 month wait for delivery patience. Airarcheryfun was out of stock and I cannot wait. I couldn't wait the one month for what I have now and used A TOTAL POS eBay drop forward that I now know was only rated for 1800PSI. So I could shoot in the meantime.
That regulator on mine is a Huben Cricket inline adjustable reg. I personally threaded and machined the super well to clock. The huben drop/reg has a sept "1st-october 13th" delivery date. I'm fine with what I've got now.
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Rememer...also you gotta go by the size of volume of the bottle, not just on how many psi it can hold.
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