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My TJ barrel arrived today

DS,

Yes, You can size .257 to .251 and lower, bearing in mind that your best luck is with a mold that drops to your exact size needed as sizing endangers slugs and over sizing will detract from best accuracy. Hoch molds are the best as they avoid sizing by dropping tapered slugs.

Best done with dies for each 1000th, ie start with a 257 bullet then use 256, 255,254,etc until you get to your goal. I try to size base first when doing this to avoid trailing edges at the base of the bullet, but when sizing down 1 or 2 1000’s I prefer nose first.

But again don’t expect sterling accuracy, if any at all.

I did it to see how the 67 grain turned slugs I ordered from Altoras would do for velocity to match weight and rifling twist, but lacking a .250 sizer, I am still a little slower than I will be with the .250 diameter will be. It also tells me what pressure will be needed to chamber a very long .249 slug past the lead and into the rifling.

My bore as you have noted is .243, so I may have to use a .243 nose sizer if I want a bore rider bullet. However nose sizers are new to me, or I may eventually try for full body .246 to .248, knowing that I will still have enough girth to completely fill the groove diameter, but I would rather not have to, which is why I avoid choked barrels, which mine is not, as slug shooters often size for the choke rather than the groove diameter.

It will however tell me if I need to have my lead in the barrel cut ever so slightly longer. Something best done by sizing first rather than cutting into new barrel.

Nose rider bullets like described above, I may be incorrect in remembering the exact mold number, are what made me give up on Ideal, Lyman and RCBS type fighters sizers as they size base first and can expand the nose of a nose rider making it hard to chamber. Lee and NOE sizers, size of course nose first unless your trying to avoid the trailing edges as described above. The down side us if your shooting PB’s , which I am not, you have to pan lube.

I used to size .459 slugs to .450 so I could paper patch them.

I am sure this is clear as mud and apoligiseb if all this makes no sense at all.

RC
 
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I had Troy Hammer buy and machine mine and never talked to TJ barrels office on the phone.

Having said that there is a thread showing two price lists, products and contact information, meaning phone and email address.

Google TJ barrel contact on GTA Airgun forum, it will take you to a thread that will show two TJ information sheets. The prices have risen, but not by much. I emailed them, TJ, a couple times, but by the time they contacted me, Troy all ready had the barrel.

This doesn’t mean you have to buy through Troy or go through Troy for the barrel machining, he just lives a block or two from TJ and I knew he had all the specs on my Kral. He did a good job though.
Regards,

Roachcreek
 
When I had Troy chamber my barrel, I had earlier sent him some of my slugs from my MPMolds, which were all in the 45 grain plus or minus weight. Now that I ordered 67 grain Altaros 6.35 diameter King slugs that will need to fit into a .243 bore, I suspect that I will need to make a lead for the nose to enter when I chamber a slug. The Altaros slug dimensions are unknown so although I have set up my Bubba hillbilly drill press lathe, I am waiting to get the slugs today or Monday and see how hard it is to chamber that .249 slug into my 243 bore.

What I do know is that if I size down a 257420 to .251 which is my smallest NOE sizer, I can chamber it, but it is very difficult and leaves a dimple the base. The 75 grain NSA .257 sized down to .251 is too difficult for me to chamber at all. The problem is of course the wear and tear to the side lever linkage, which I want to avoid. I have a .249 sizer coming which will make the NSA slug easier to chamber, but so far I do not have a .249 slug in hand, and both the NSA and the sized down 257420 are simply one time use lead go-no go gauges and to see what velocity I will make with the .249 Altaris King slugs.

If I have to cut a lead beyond the present chamber, I will spin the barrel in my drill press lathe while turning a .233 cratex bulb in a Dremel against the bore at a maximum depth of 1.1 inches, which exposes .40 of the rifled bore to the craytex bulb, the original chamber Troy cut will be untouched.

All this sounds difficult, however the craytex bulbs grind very slowly and doing it with the barrel spinning gives a pretty consistent lead. I will need to use several bulbs and many .249 sized 257420 slugs for go-no go gauges. The craytex bulbs will only contact the first .40 of the .245 rifling I need to relieve.

This is not a untried procedure for me, I sent Doug Noble a 1-10 twist TJ barrel to machine the breech dimensions and not to chamber for my Haley 257 Scandalous a decade ago, I cut the chamber using the above method until I had a chamber that would take a .257 Hoch tapered slug. It took hours and many .25 craytex bulbs, but in the end I had a chamber and lead for a tapered slug that fit like a wine cork gently pushed into a bottle.

This will only involve first .40 of the rifling so it should not take as long, it just relies on a lot of those .249/257420 np-go gauges being used and going slow. If it all goes to hell, worst case senecio is a bill to chop 1 inch off the barrel and a chamber and lead cut.

Mail lady just delivered the Altaros Kings, so more news later.

RC

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So far the Altaros .250(6.35mm) King slugs are not working out.

Too much bearing surface and and too large of a diameter. There are deep filling marks from nose to base. This cuts velocity considerably. I will resize one or two to.249 to see the effects on chambering, however I suspect the friction will still be too much.

Anyone want a great deal on a mostly full box of 100?

I just ordered 100 of the Griffith 68 grain boat tail hollow points. A much longer projectile with what appears to be a much shorter bearing surface. They are .250 so I will try the .250 diameter and size some to .249.

RC
 
I bought some 68 grain boattail hp .250 from Griffith and got them in yesterday. I was hoping that the spritzer nose and the boattail would yield a much shorter bearing surface and it does. Velocity with my preload maxed out is yielding 820-825 fps. Nice looking bullets with a hinged metal container.

Casting bullets with lube grooves for decades has me spoiled for max velocitues. I am finding that to match the velocity I get with cast bullets, with swaged bullets I need to add two turns more on my preload, which puts me one full turn off max. Another way to view this is the fact that If I size down a 257420 weighing 72 grains, to .251 which is slightly oversize for my bore, I get the same velocity as the Griffith 68 grain bullet, but without the additional 2 turns on the preload.

So far I have chroined Altaros, AVS, NSA, and Griffith slugs. All seem to be great ammo, just slower than my lobe grooved cast bullets. Now I need to get them on paper and see what speed they shoot with accuracy.

RC

 
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Yesterday I cronies some Griffith 68 grain boattail he’s.

Starting with a 4200 psi fill, my preload is maxed out, I fired 9 rounds, the first 5 shots were 825, 823, 823, 823, 810 fps.

I only have a 10 yard test range, but those 68 grain bullets tend to shoot one hole groups in the teens center to center, the higher the fill pressure remaining the better chance I have at printing those tiny groups.

With my shroud configuration, and my quiet box, I get a healthy spring twang noise indicating the dwell time is correct and is not blowing air out the barrel. If I switch to the 43.5 grain NSA bullets, using the same maxed out tune, I get a loud report indicating the valve is not closed by the time these lighter slugs clear the barrel. Backing off on the preload returns the dwell to a more manageable noise level.

I have ordered 60 grain slugs from Griffith and expect velocities to be in the 870-880 range.

RC
 
I have been considering changing tanks once again on this Bighorn. I earlier changed from a 3625 psi TalonTunes tank to a Chinese 4500 psi tank so I could do higher fill pressures. Both tanks were .5L.

I have had eye on a Tuxting .7l tank which is on my eBay watchlist.

The issue is time, money and whether it pencils out. I have perhaps 6 to 12 months left on my remaining eyes ability to see well enough through a scope to shoot. This fact built the fire under me to get the TJ barrel while I could enjoy it. The question now, is it worth buying the tank to get a few more shots per fill or save $170.00 and fill more often? Perhaps it’s a question of ego, ie., look at me, I can get a magazine full,of 100 fpe shots or just that curiosity issue that keeps us pcp Airgun addicts/cranks going for one more mod.

RC
 
Shot some 10 yard groups with the NSA 43.5 grain slugs today lubed with Slick50 @85 fpe. Seems to be a accurate tune, 2 turns off max, 4000 psi to 3300 psi 18 shots. Top group was shot as my vision fatigued.

Black dot in center of orange sticker is a Sharpie aiming point.

RC

Post script: I just received my order of Griffin 60 grain bthp’s

I put my preload at max and fired 3 shot again at 10 yards, they went into one hole @ 905fps/109 fpe, really pleased with these Griffin slugs.
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RC, I am sorry to see the Altaros didn't work out. Your sharing here will indeed help others using the TJ's .250-14 liner. If you are still hanging onto those Altaros please shoot me a PM, I'll be happy to take them off of your hands. While they are a bit heavy for my regulated tune/tube, it would be interesting to test them with my unregulated tube.
 
I think that 67-68 grain slugs are too heavy for my Bighorns’power plant, that combined with the increased length of the bearing surface.

Both the slugs in that weight were hard to chamber, especially the Altaros slugs, soI gave up on them rather quickly.

The 68 grain Griffins chambered better as the boat tail and spritzer design reduced the length of the bearing surface but showed signs of instability as the velocity dropped at the end of strings. The 60 grain Griffin slugs actually chamber easier than the NSA 43.5 grain slugs and the accuracy of both are very promising. I had expected a velocity increase with the 60 grain Griffins of around 60 fps but was pleasantly surprised with the 80 fps increase.


RC
 
This has been a interesting project for me. I had a target energy goal of 100FPE, which was easy to achieve with the 4500 psi bottle. It turned out that if I held my velocity to just over 900 fps with either the NSA 43.5 bullet, which had a top velocity of 1047, or 905 fps with the 60 grain bthp Griffin slug, accuracy was excellent.

I have one more test for accuracy at longer range, which I will do next month with my son Who will be shooting both projectiles to see what they do at distance.

The 43.5 grain NSA fits in the magazine and the longer Griffin slug needs a single shot tray, I suspect both shoot better than I can, but smart money will be with the Griffith slug tuned down to around 100 fpe.

This project was my “Swan Song” project, one last dance at closing time if you will, due to failing eyesight and diminished memory function which started 44 years ago in a riot in Portland Oregon. Sounds bad but they sent me a paycheck each month and it allowed me to live out my dreams of being a hermit with a 1100 yard range and when that dream became a nightmare, then switch gears and travel the earth to find and marry the most wonderful and beautiful woman I have ever known. I have dismantled my little range so she doesn’t need to when I no longer can. She moved halfway around the world, gave up everything for me to live with me and will take me back to her home land to have help to care for me when the time comes.

I have turned all my casting equipment over to my son, a retired Marine and NRA instructor, this next month I will turn over my Airguns to him.

Giving up shooting and casting was hard to do, but it is the responsible thing to do. It has been a richly rewarding decade hanging out with all of you and the things all of you have taught me about the “Darkside”.

Regards,

Roachcreek
 
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This has been a interesting project for me. I had a target energy goal of 100FPE, which was easy to achieve with the 4500 psi bottle. It turned out that if I held my velocity to just over 900 fps with either the NSA 43.5 bullet, which had a top velocity of 1047, or 905 fps with the 60 grain bthp Griffin slug, accuracy was excellent.

I have one more test for accuracy at longer range, which I will do next month with my son Who will be shooting both projectiles to see what they do at distance.

The 43.5 grain NSA fits in the magazine and the longer Griffin slug needs a single shot tray, I suspect both shoot better than I can, but smart money will be with the Griffith slug tuned down to around 100 fpe.

This project was my “Swan Song” project, one last dance at closing time if you will, due to failing eyesight and diminished memory function which started 44 years ago in a riot in Portland Oregon. Sounds bad but they sent me a paycheck each month and it allowed me to live out my dreams of being a hermit with a 1100 yard range and when that dream became a nightmare, then switch gears and travel the earth to find and marry the most wonderful and beautiful woman I have ever known. I have dismantled my little range so she doesn’t need to when I no longer can. She moved halfway around the world, gave up everything for me to live with me and will take me back to her home land to have help to care for me when the time comes.

I have turned all my casting equipment over to my son, a retired Marine and NRA instructor, this next month I will turn over my Airguns to him.

Giving up shooting and casting was hard to do, but it is the responsible thing to do. It has been a richly rewarding decade hanging out with all of you and the things all of you have taught me about the “Darkside”.

Regards,

Roachcreek
I’d say get the 700 ml. bottle, last hurrah and all. Thank you for all your contributions to this and other forums, you’ve helped me, and probably many others without knowing it. While your condition sucks, it seems you have it well in hand with a great support system, which, of course is most important! Be well, be excellent!
 
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