Tuning Need 2240XL trigger job service

I can't point you to a tuner but I just wanted to say, if you are going to put money in it, consider upgrading it to the Marauder trigger group. The direct sear triggers are passable with a lot of work, and that's fine if it's my own labor but I'd have a hard time justifying paying someone else to do it. That money would be better spent on a proper drop sear trigger.
 
If anyone is interested, here's the approach I've used a few times. 

This article is about the basic Crosman trigger present in the Discovery & Maximus, 2240, 2400KT, 1377 & 1322, etc. I know there's a lot out there on how to improve it, including some very creative use of bearings, modifying the parts to get more mechanical advantage, and so forth. But here's my modest approach on making it better. Bear in mind no amount of work to a direct sear trigger is going to match a decent drop sear. If you want that, do the Marauder retrofit and don't look back. But if you find it hard to drop that kind of coin on a new trigger group, please read on.

So what all does this tuneup involve? Four things:

  • smoothing and polishing - the basis for most every trigger tune
  • reducing the pull weight - a lighter spring combined with #1 makes this possible
  • eliminating the sideways slop in the trigger blade - a mildly annoying thing that makes a trigger feel cheap
  • eliminating the sear spring's interference with the housing - this is a key source of annoying stick-slip-stick-slip behavior. Doesn't affect all guns but seemingly most.

Okay so let's jump in. First order of business is to deal with that Mickey Mouse sear. Oh my, it's a piece of shi stamped steel that looks like it was cut out by an angry beaver. Pictures are better than words so I'll let these be the guide.







To understand a little better about what we're dealing with, the following graphic shows the type of edge produced by a shearing operation. If you look closely at your sear as it is delivered from the factory, you can make out the shiny burnished portion and the dull fractured portion. You can also feel the slightly radiused rollover on the top side and a sharp burr on the bottom side. Our aim is to get rid of all these things.



Besides the obvious flattening and polishing visible in the photos, I recommend also taking a few angled passes to remove the burr on the tearout side. If all our parts remain perfectly orthogonal, the burr is irrelevant. But there is some play in the parts and they will twist on the pivot pins which gives some opportunity for the burr to introduce friction so I like to go ahead and knock it down.

For best results, I also recommend smoothing the hammer. I had already done that to mine some time ago and I didn't want to remove the breech and barrel to pull it out for a photo.

For the trigger, smooth and polish the rounded face that presses against the sear:



Now with all the contact points smoothed, you may still feel some hitches in the pull...the stick-slip-stick-slip thing I referred to earlier. If you don't, you can skip this part. If you do, it's easy to chalk it up to whatever friction remains in the system but that may not be the actual cause. Take a close look at the spring while you pull the trigger. The coils tend to drag on the sides of the trigger frame. There's a beveled edge that keeps it from snagging hard but the interference is enough to be easily felt.

So to address that, I made a little guide block as shown. It fits into the rectangular channel underneath the sear and is just tall enough to keep the spring out of the trigger frame so it can't catch on anything. This one was done with hand tools so don't let that stand in your way.



But then a few days later I realized what I had made was a Lego block. Turns out these work beautifully:



On with final assembly:



Start by doing a dry fit to make sure everything goes together okay. Use this step to determine if your spacer washers are right to take up the side play but not so thick as to cause things to bind up. Similarly, check that the guide block moves freely when you exercise the trigger. Once you're happy with it, lubricate the contact surfaces and do a final assembly.

The resulting trigger pull should be much smoother now and between 8 - 16oz depending on the strength of your hammer spring.

I hope this helps!
 
Thanks for all the suggestions.

I now have a pretty decent trigger without fiddling with anything. I ordered an adjustable trigger spring, supersear and a roller trigger. 1 minute to take the pistol apart, 15 minutes on my hands and knees with a magnet to find the 3/32" safety ball again, 5 minutes to put it all back together. Trigger is light and smooth - and it started out TERRIBLE. I attached a picture with it all put together. 

I have no affiliation with any of the links below, but these are the pieces I bought.

SuperSear: https://www.ebay.com/itm/184266728131?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648

Roller trigger: https://www.ebay.com/itm/301338513344?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648

Adjustable spring assembly: https://www.ebay.com/itm/293556368413?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649



IMG_4FEECD15C0F6-1.1639754107.jpeg




DY


 
Great thread. I received a 2300T for Christmas with a rough trigger. All I have done is to line up the sear and trigger with nylon washers. Just a note to anyone who is about to remove the sideplate on a Crosman 2240, 2300 or sibling is to secure the safety as in the pictures above. Otherwise you will learn about the safety detent ball and spring. You will also need a #2 square drive bit to remove the grip frame to install the ball and spring.
 
Polishing those sear surfaces and the bearing surface on the trigger will work wonders . Adding a roller trigger is another step up. In reguards to the safety ball, use a heavy silicon grease such as nyogel 760, on the spring and ball,to help keep it from flying out, It also helps in reassembly if it does come out. I got some thin steel shim washers on ebay,
which might hold up better in the long run.