Need gun safe recommendations

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Ignore all the "fire ratings" as well. Those numbers are all arbitrary and have no industry standard. To get actual fire rating you will have to spend over the $50k price range. There is a standard that is used for fire rating, but none of the safes you buy at a store will even begin to come close to surviving. 

Get what you can and understand what it is, and what the difference is between an actual safe and something that looks like a safe.



Take some time and read around this site

https://gunsafereviewsguy.com/articles/myths-about-gun-safe-fire-ratings/


 
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Actually got the same the safe delivered today and I am very happy with it, it will meet my near term needs for sure.

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If you want a safe, get a Liberty and spend the money, I second the opinion, to get the largest you can afford. With the right setup you can put in rifles front to back with socks and squeeze in quite a few, and a significant amount of ammo in cans. They are NOT air tight, so you do need a dehumidifier, I use a Eva-dry EDV500 Dehumidifiers and a ThermoPro TP50 Digital Hygrometer Indoor Thermometer Room Thermometer and Humidity Gauge with Temperature Humidity Monitor.
 
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Ezana4CE said:
@blackpaw My friend, don’t just trust what I’m saying. Listen to what other members have said in previous posts on the topic. Also look at some video reviews on YouTube. It’s simply a claim probably based upon a specific unscoped long gun that you won’t be placing in the safe. You may find out where they come up with that number somewhere in the small print. Those “gun numbers” regarding safe capacity are usually complete BS at the consumer level. If you attempt to place 10 air rifles in that thing I can pretty much assure you that you will damage some.


There are companies that make money on selling component systems to reconfigure gun safes to hold guns more securely and to simply hold more guns. I wouldn’t intentionally go out of my way to mislead you. I’m asking you to look into this for yourself for your own benefit and peace-of-mind. Also so you don’t spend your money thinking you’re buying something that will not do what it claims for your intended purposes. Oh and the fire resistant element is largely based upon the use of gypsum (sheetrock) on the interior of the safe. Sheetrock does not burn easily. Look at the picture of the open door. That thin piece on the inside of the door is a piece of sheet rock covered in fabric. Speaking of fabric, the door appears to hold 3 three pistols so let’s say you want to cram 7 air rifles in this “10 gun safe,” it’s still not happening. Not scoped and definitely not air rifles with bottles for reservoirs Gun Safe Move. Considering your living space and location a small safe is probably best suited for you. Just be aware and realistic about how many air rifles it can hold securely.


Here are some AGN links on the matter:
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Hello, I have a Browning Prestige 39 gun safe and the lights have quit working. I've had this safe for about 4 years. I have a dehumidifier plugged into the same outlet inside the safe, and it is working so the ac is OK. It is supposed to come on when the door opens but it doesn't work anymore. This light kit was in the safe when I bought it new. It's hard to trace the wires as they go behind the inside panels. Any ideas or has anyone had a similar problem?
 
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wilsontaylor said:
Hello, I have a Browning Prestige 39 gun safe and the lights have quit working. I've had this safe for about 4 years. I have a dehumidifier plugged into the same outlet inside the safe, and it is working so the ac is OK. It is supposed to come on when the door opens but it doesn't work anymore. This light kit was in the safe when I bought it new. It's hard to trace the wires as they go behind the inside panels. Any ideas or has anyone had a similar problem?
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@wilsontaylor Have you tried contacting someone at Browning? I’ve dealt with them for warranty service in the past. Had some food and not so good experiences with them. The folks I dealt with were out of Alabama from what I recall. I think calling them would be a good starting point.
 
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A lot of lower cost safes will have the sexy chrome plated bolts on both edges of the door. Very secure. But a good thief knocks on the side of the safe and can immediately tell that the safe is made of 14 or 16 gauge steel or 3/16” or thicker. If it’s 3/16” or thicker they just leave it alone and cry. But if it’s 14 or 16 gauge, out comes the grinder and they just quickly cut a rectangular hole in the side and start unloading. And then there’s the crappy electronic locks that have tutorials on youtube on how to open them in seconds.
Like several have already said, spend as much as you can. I saw that the OP bought a Winchester safe. That will work, just know your safes weak and strong points. Hiding guns is very effective. I always liked the fake cold air returns in basement floor joists, only downside is that they aren’t fire proof.
 
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just buy so many guns they cant possibly carry them all .. confuses them😁 .. no but whatever you do bolt it fom the inside to wall studs and anchor it to the floor .. your average pubescent house thief wont have the means or want to spend the time working on ooening a safe if its at least sturdy enough to withstand a crowbar .. situating it in tha back of a small closet will exacerbate efforts to pry or work on it also .. and leave lesser value guns simple out and hanging on a wall etc .. as said they arnt going to spend all day with a moving truck unless they just know your gone for awhile, give them something cheaper to run off with ..
 
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