Need help with laminate stock

Too many coats of tru oil and it looks like a guitar. Not a gun anymore. Too glossy for me. I don't normally want all the grain filled. I prefer to sand a coat in and wipe. fills most grain. Then give that a couple more coats. Might only take 2 more. Depends. I sure do get a lot of compliments on my guns when seen up close and handled.
Only 3 coats of finish on this gun. Had to be refinished because I slightly altered the comb. You can't tell.
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So ready for some work?? Forget professionals most of them are like the professionals on this forum........did I say that.........Grin~~~
Danish oil first and true oil for the final finish.
Sand, sand, sand some more. Take your time, do it a little at a time and it will not be so tedious. However you get there final sand with wet/dry 400 grit , do this several times and let dry overnight and carefully check for any fine raised grain, and when happy use Danish Oil and a soft rag. Just rub it on and evenly and completely cover it all and make sure no runs drips or thick spots remain. This may take six, seven or ten coats until the finish is soaked in and even and clear .
Once happy with that part do another sand with 400 wet/dry and let dry overnight and use a tack rag and wipe the stock down good.
Now the work starts, all this has been preparation.
Casey True Oil time. Up to ten or more coats, just put the oil in palm or on a soft rag and rub it in, now rub with your hand each coat until your get tired or hour hand has had enough. The heat from your hand and the rubbing helps the finish, around 30 minutes each coat should do. Now again let dry overnight and do it again, until you are happy with it.
The entire goal is a very smooth and beautiful finish that is not thick and stacked up in layers, each coat of oil is very, very thin, all of it you can wipe off do so and rub and polish with your bare hand.

Its work and takes time, the result is very nice though.
Cheers
Kit
Tru-oil and Danish oil are both drying oil/varnish type products and will over time yellow. For a non yellowing finish you need to use a nitrocellulose lacquer or one of the water base acrylic varnishes. I finished a white pine wardrobe, one of the put it together from a box, for my son to take off to law school a bit over 20 years ago with one of those water base floor finishes. I diluted the first coat with water, and sprayed lightly, let it dry a day, sanded again then several coats the full strength varnish sprayed on I did this all before assembly, took it 350 miles away, put it together with glue, screws and tacks. Still together and finish has not yellowed. My grandson is now using it.
 
Too many coats of tru oil and it looks like a guitar. Not a gun anymore. Too glossy for me. I don't normally want all the grain filled. I prefer to sand a coat in and wipe. fills most grain. Then give that a couple more coats. Might only take 2 more. Depends. I sure do get a lot of compliments on my guns when seen up close and handled.
Only 3 coats of finish on this gun. Had to be refinished because I slightly altered the comb. You can't tell.
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Tru oil makes one called Original oil which is much more of a satin finish. I used the one labeled Tru-oil 50-55 years ago, and id did not seem nearly as glossy as todays product, and much easier to get a good liking finish.
 
No, have not contacted HW. Just reading up or seeing what the inter webs says on the subject.
It probably is not an oil base varnish. It is likely a spray on polyurethane. You may want to use a product to repair your scratches with a product called glu boost

This way you do not have to remove much of the original finish, you are just repairing over your scratches without going too deep and spending a whole lot of time on your process.
A satin finish can be achieved by sanding the finished product with 600 grit sandpaper, maybe 1000 grit depending on how the rest of the finish appears.