NEW Daystate Compressor – 4500 PSI, 110v, Quiet, Clean, Portable!

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ferrous metal in blue, and tested all points pictured on my LC-110. Guess this explains the localized rust.
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Thanks for taking time to check this out and reporting the findings. I think a bit of external rust is no big deal. Just rub some oil over the rusted area and it will probably cease to rust further. My concern is internal rust which will just keep worsening until some failure occurs. As mtnGhost has seen rusty water being spit out of the compressor, there may be rusting inside the machine. My cheap Yong Heng has got a number of compression fitting connectors / adaptors of this kind at various locations : 

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Some of the connectors are made of stainless steel and some are made of ordinary steel that can rust. The two connectors attached to the moisture trap of the first stage are made of steel and rusted inside. Can similar things be happening inside the Daystate ?

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My Yong Heng is one year old so I believe it will take several years before the rusting will cause real problems. So far it just makes me feel uncomfortable. I have tried to look for stainless steel replacements but no joy so far. My temporary fix is to sand off the rust and coat the surface with Boeshield T9 hoping that it will last longer. If it doesn't work, it means I will have to replace these connectors regularly although that's no big deal because the original Yong Heng parts are very cheap and always available. 

I just don't quite understand why stainless steel is not used in expensive compressors like the Daystate which can supposedly last for a very long time.


 
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Good illustration! Is yours coated better?
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If I look closely I can see some of the same underspray issues that you had on various parts *but* the ferrous stage 2 cylinder and the heat sink fins appear to be better coated than yours. That said, I do have a spot that looks like painted rust that may have been rust prior to painting or a blemish after the casting process. If I poke at it the paint doesn't flake off so there's a good bond there. I wonder if these things have a cylinder sleeve?

At about 1.5 hrs on the thing looking at my rag under the condensate tower I see a couple of dark colored spots. Bad news is the rag I'm using is an old pink T-Shirt of the wife's so it's hard to get a color contrast but they could be rust colored.

All in all I'm chalking this one up to "working as designed" -- we might be chasing perfection with regard to surface rust and/or rust colored output (that may not actually be rust?). I do agree the stage 2 cylinder leak warrants a return though.

Maybe one of the AOA guys knows if this is normal. I recall this discoloration being considered normal and an indicator that an oil change is necessary. I recall reading a few threads where once the oil starts looking brown like this and no longer clear it's time to change it.

Plus too I'm still breaking this thing in. I really have no definition of "normal" versus "abnormal" at this point because the unit is still so new.
 
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Just curious mtnGhost, are you going to have eat the shipping charges for the non working one going back and the new one coming your way? I just got a quote for a compressor today and shipping was $188. Shipping cost can add up real quick. I can imagine the anguish you’re going through.
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Probably on the AoA one that's scheduled to arrive tomorrow, but I didn't have to pay for the return shipping on the AGD one that I sent back - and I'm expecting a full refund for every cent that I spent on it!
 
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Followed the setup instructions to the letter again. When I started to fill my tank the compressor started to vibrate heavily at 3600 PSI, and then the compressor seized with the electric motor buzzing with power until I hit the shutoff.

I checked the compressor up and down and ran it again. It made it to 3800PSI and the compressor seized again with the electric motor buzzing with power until I hit the shutoff button again.

There is also oil now in the air filter that has come through it to the top filter lid.
 
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Jumped on a call with AoA. They're going to send me a new assembled pump unit to swap out with this one that is seizing up.

Worth mentioning l:

  • this compressor and the one that I got from AGD were likely both made in the same batch.
  • He said they haven't had problems with these and they've sold hundreds over the last 9 months
  • another guy he spoke to recently burned up a (different) compressor while filling his Joe B. Great White, maybe there's something with the slow fill jubilee valve that is causing problems, he didn't think so but said it was weird that both I and this other guy had this in common
 
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WTF!? Man, that stinks. I checked my paint job on the one I got from AOA and I don't have any surface rust anywhere. When mine gets up to around 4000 PSI the fan cage will rattle just a touch. If the bottle is cold I noticed the shut off valve will rattle but nothing like the problems you've described. Mine runs on a dedicated 20 AMP circuit that is about 1' from the main panel. Dunno if that helps at all. Mine is like SN 2019 03 or something.
 
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20A as well, 3' from the breaker. I'm starting to get real nervous now with my Great White tank. 2 out of the 4 fill shops that I went to had equipment failures which they thought had happened after filling my tank. 

That said, I just can't imagine the problems with the first Daystate compressor could have been caused by my tank valve, and this latest one seemed to have a problem far different than the first. 
 
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That sucks, it really sounds like you're doing everything right.

I'm a big fan of the Ninja EZ-Valves because of the male foster fitting with check valve which allows me to fill without going through the slow fill valve. I can't remember where I had previously read but it was something along the lines of never wanting to back fill through a restrictive flow valve but surely that's not the case with the GreatWhite?


 
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Sure sorry to hear of the problem a second time! Hope they get you taken care of but it has to be frustrating-thanks for the calm description of the problem. I have topped off my GW with my Yong Heng with no problems but I guess maybe the flow rate of the Daystate is causing overload through the restriction? Doesn't seem likely though. Maybe you just got two lemons in a row. Have you bought a lottery ticket for tonight? You may be due.
 
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WTF! this is BS. I thought AOA was going to test the unit before they shipped it to you? I don't think it has anything to do with your GW, one way to test would be to hook up your GW close the tank valve and see if it builds up to 4500. My 220v has no problem with my GW, but I have never filled from empty just 3000-4500. 

I probably should not post my suspicions, but I find the head rust suspicious along with the AOA addendum that is not found in my Daystate/Coltri manual to run the compressor for an additional amount of time under no load after your fill. The suspicious me thinks this may have been added for a possible overheating condition and a hot stop being not so good for the compressor. I will stop here, but will be adding a fan to help cool down my compressor after it is shut down.
 
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AoA said they did run it before it shipped. I could sort of tell that it was run before they sent it, the biggest sign was a little oil in the air filter probably leftover from the testing left in the sump that travelled up during shipping.

Now get this.. yesterday, before I headed out to shoot - I decided to get a head start on the tear down that I'll need to do in order to swap out the pump with the one that is on the way to me. Aside from the obvious pump seizures, there were a couple of details that I noticed that bothered me..

  1. the top fan shroud looked a little bent
  2. the belt wobbled a lot more than the other compressor 
  3. lots of rattling when the pressure crossed 200bar
    [/LIST=1]

    The process of breaking the unit down seemed straightforward, there's also an instructional video that I found published by Coltri (for the MCH-6, which has similarities). 

    When I took the belt shroud off, it appeared that the belt straightened itself out a little. I said what the hell and ran it to see if the rattling subsided, and if the belt was still wobbly (mind you, I DID check the belt tension prior to running before).

    When I ran it this time, it built pressure all the way to shutoff. This was a BIG WTF moment.
 
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AoA said they did run it before it shipped. I could sort of tell that it was run before they sent it, the biggest sign was a little oil in the air filter probably leftover from the testing left in the sump that travelled up during shipping.

Now get this.. yesterday, before I headed out to shoot - I decided to get a head start on the tear down that I'll need to do in order to swap out the pump with the one that is on the way to me. Aside from the obvious pump seizures, there were a couple of details that I noticed that bothered me..

  1. the top fan shroud looked a little bent
  2. the belt wobbled a lot more than the other compressor 
  3. lots of rattling when the pressure crossed 200bar
    [/LIST=1]

    The process of breaking the unit down seemed straightforward, there's also an instructional video that I found published by Coltri (for the MCH-6, which has similarities). 

    When I took the belt shroud off, it appeared that the belt straightened itself out a little. I said what the hell and ran it to see if the rattling subsided, and if the belt was still wobbly (mind you, I DID check the belt tension prior to running before).

    When I ran it this time, it built pressure all the way to shutoff. This was a BIG WTF moment.
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  1. Interesting. Are you saying the pulleys were not aligned well? Was something loose or did the shroud cause something to move? 

    Following very closely as I have a compressor on the way. It is going through the testing protocol currently.



    Joe
 
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The suspicious me thinks this may have been added for a possible overheating condition and a hot stop being not so good for the compressor. I will stop here, but will be adding a fan to help cool down my compressor after it is shut down.
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I've got a FLIR thermal camera if you wanted some thermal images and are curious. As I understand it's not so much a heat condition as it is running it without compression to blow out any accumulation of moisture. There's a few threads on this being good operating practice to ensure latent moisture doesn't cause any issues.
 
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