New Diana Chaser rifle kit OOTB

I received my new .22 DC rifle yesterday. Comes as a bare pistol and you need to mount the rifle parts manually. I assembled the rifle yesterday. The thick owner's manual contained no assembly instructions (in four languages!).

The stock had to be forced onto the butt because the locking screw did not quite line up.

It was fairly obvious how to uncouple the pistol barrel - just loosen three set screws. Mounting the rifle barrel was harder since the mating screws are of different sizes and the barrel must be properly rotated to mate to them.

The barrel band was not simple either - it's set screw became separated from the band and was nearly lost. I had to consult a picture of the assembled rifle to get the front sight pointing in the proper direction. The set screw went hand tight but the band was still loose. It took a lot of tightening to get the band tight.

I ordered a seven shot magazine which I loaded incorrectly.

You would think that the suppressor from the rifle barrel would detach for use on the pistol configuration. But no. Here are some suggestions for how to detach the suppressor:


I waited until this morning to test fire it. Luckily my up and downstairs neighbors were not home.

The single pellet "loading base" is a tiny metal chute that fits behind the chamber when the bolt is pulled back. It is fitted with a magnet to hold it in place. It is not shown in the initial general description picture of the gun. The loading instructions simply say to "insert it" and show an indecernable photo of the chamber area. At first I failed to unseat it because I had not withdrawn the bolt all of the way.

But I wanted to shoot multiple pellets so I loaded the magazine instead.

The last step before firing was to charge the gun with CO2. I unscrewed the cap to the cartridge chamber and removed the builtin "wrench" pin from the cap. I oiled a cartridge and inserted it. I replaced the cap and screwed it in until it uncountered the cartridge. I inserted the pin and used it to complete securing the cap.

I have loaded a lot of these cartridges. Some seat quietly and others make a soft hiss as they are punctured. When I twisted this cap there was a loud hiss that would not stop. I tried turning some more (which involved starting a new turn with the pin) but the hiss just got louder. The barrel, the cart and my hand froze.

I removed the now empty cart and inspected the gun's CO2 port through the top of the chamber. Everything looked OK. Then I discovered an inspection port in the side of the CO2 chamber. This allowed me to confirm closeup that there was a good O-ring surrounding the cartridge piercer.

I tried loading another cart, this time using a screwdriver to turn the slotted cap. This time it went flawlessly.

Next I tried to load a pellet with the hand bolt. The magazine was mounted but the bolt would not close on it. Instructions for correctly loading the magazine can be found here:


I had neglected to "pre-cock" the magazine by rotating it's clear cover one turn CCW.

Now the bolt would close so I put the safety off, aimed at my target and pulled the trigger. The bolt fired but there was no discharge and no pellet came out. This happened twice.

By now I had one pellet in the chamber and two stuck in the barrel. I removed the magazine and safed the weapon. The pellet in the chamber easily fell out. I dismounted the long rifle barrel and used a cleaning rod to clear the two stuck pellets. Surprisingly the rod went right through the suppressor.

Reassembled, reloaded the mag and tried again. It worked! I shot a few times with the iron sights. They were fine. I discovered a small rail beneath the barrel band where I mounted a red dot.

I zeroed the red dot using the iron sights, by making the RD the target of the sights. I successfully fired an entire magazine.

P.S. I think that the initial lack of gas was due to the barrel being inserted crooked so that the barrel's CO2 port was not aligned with the port from the valve.
 
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I have no idea what you just said...
The leaking co2, your not supposed to crank the cap down especially with any tools,hand tighten cap ,cock gun and fire ,this should seat the co2,this is how crossman tells you to do it in their manuals.And if a co2 cartridge deforms and won’t come out unscrew cap and cock pull trigger pops right out
 
The leaking co2, your not supposed to crank the cap down especially with any tools,hand tighten cap ,cock gun and fire ,this should seat the co2,this is how crossman tells you to do it in their manuals.And if a co2 cartridge deforms and won’t come out unscrew cap and cock pull trigger pops right out
I learn something everyday. I have a Diana Airbug that that has been losing considerable co2 over a couple of days stored. I've been loading the co2 cartridge and tightening the cap with the tool that screws into the cap. Tonight I'll try hand tightening the cap and firing the gun like you say Crossman suggests. We'll see if it works on my Diana.
Thanks!
 
Tonight I'll try hand tightening the cap and firing the gun like you say Crossman suggests.
If the Airbug valve is like many other single-cartridge guns by Snowpeak, it pierces by tightening the cap, forcing the tip of the cartridge onto a cone. Different than Crosman CO2 guns...those have a piercing pin that is driven into the cartridge by the hammer.
 
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If the Airbug valve is like many other single-cartridge guns by Snowpeak, it pierces by tightening the cap, forcing the tip of the cartridge onto a cone. Different than Crosman CO2 guns...those have a piercing pin that is driven into the cartridge by the hammer.
Thanks......I know little about co2 guns. It was given to me and it leaks co2(maybe a cylinder over a week). Probably not worth sending off to get fixed.
 
Thanks......I know little about co2 guns. It was given to me and it leaks co2(maybe a cylinder over a week). Probably not worth sending off to get fixed.
The good news is the valve is easy to remove and reseal. In my experience, the seal at the end of the valve is the weak point:

valve seal.jpg

A -009 size O-ring works perfectly as a replacement, preferably in 90 durometer.

By the way, you can see the aforementioned piercing cone in this photo.
 
If the Airbug valve is like many other single-cartridge guns by Snowpeak, it pierces by tightening the cap, forcing the tip of the cartridge onto a cone. Different than Crosman CO2 guns...those have a piercing pin that is driven into the cartridge by the hammer.
I have had several Crosman CO2 types for a few years and am familiar with hand tightning then firing a couple of times to pierce the cartridge. I just got a new Diana Airbug and that does now work, You have to tighten a bit more than hand tight, that's why it has a little "tommy bar" built into the end cap.