I was wondering the same thing, It was the big side lever?What ever happened to the heavy duty side levers?
Mike, not a single load, bought some new mags from Wes at Air gun archery and fun in Canada to replace the originals. The cheek piece is out of a 2x4 (fir) the rest of the stock I cut strips out of a old sheet of aluminum and had to screw them together because I don't have a tig welder. But I do have a mig welder for mild steel. The frame is attached to the cheek piece and a screw to the pistol grip, can be taken apart fairly easy. I was a welder by trade but retired or it would look a lot different than what it does. If I had all the equipment that I had in my shop I would of given it a whole back end stock in aluminum but just did it in simple form for what I had on hand. It is my pester gun for the back yard but have to get a better scope one of these days lol. So yes one of a kind, glad you like it. DarellThem are some real sick looking PP 750s, I bet they are super light
Kayaker Do you have to single load ? I bet that's a one off rear stock, Never seen one like that.
Mike
I drilled ALL ports to 1/8", including the hole in the aluminum part where it is at the upper edge of one chamber and the lower edge of the chamber opposite, whatever that's called - the 'block'? Also epoxy-filled the channel and second hole at the barrel port, slightly correcting the location of the other existing hole to get it properly aligned with the previous port.I know about that one. My gunsmith thinks that if the whole air path is not the same diameter, driling only barel port, poppet one and the brass port is not going to yield significant result.
I'm seeing that many people over here have made some good results without drilling through block , but I see where his reasoning is comming from.
Hi from Greece,
I have the gun quite a few months now (.22, 12 ft-lbr) and recently I tested it with H&N slugs, 21 gr and 23 gr, the .218 versions.
Guys, you may read here and there that slugs need a lot of power, but this gun absolutely rocks with slugs. Up to 50 m the gun shoots only 2cm more drop compared to the 18.gr JSBs, but at 73 m (the maximum of the range I shoot), the gun shoots hard (10 fpe on target) and consistent. I upgraded to 2-7x32 Hawke now in order to cope with the extended capabilities. So favorite pellets are the 18.13 gr JSBs up to 50 m and the new H&N slugs at .218, they slide effortless and they are accurate - caution, because they ricochet more compared to standard ones
I liked it with this stripper at the end instead of the additional muffler.
If anybody has found a schematic diagram , I would be much obliged if I could have it shared with me...
Regards
Hi I'm also Greek coincidentally and I just purchased the pp 750. Actually half Greek half Russian but born in Vancouver canada. I can speak greek. In terms of shooting slugs with this gun I'm going to have to increase the FPS and FPE I'm planning on bringing it to greece. The FPS in Canada is around 500. They detune it. Have you experimented in terms of energy and penetration and accuracy shooting say jsb pellets as compared to jsb slugs? It would be interesting to see the comparison I plan on doing it myself. I didn't think this gun was capable of shooting slugs so it's good to hear that.Hi from Greece,
I have the gun quite a few months now (.22, 12 ft-lbr) and recently I tested it with H&N slugs, 21 gr and 23 gr, the .218 versions.
Guys, you may read here and there that slugs need a lot of power, but this gun absolutely rocks with slugs. Up to 50 m the gun shoots only 2cm more drop compared to the 18.gr JSBs, but at 73 m (the maximum of the range I shoot), the gun shoots hard (10 fpe on target) and consistent. I upgraded to 2-7x32 Hawke now in order to cope with the extended capabilities. So favorite pellets are the 18.13 gr JSBs up to 50 m and the new H&N slugs at .218, they slide effortless and they are accurate - caution, because they ricochet more compared to standard ones
I liked it with this stripper at the end instead of the additional muffler.
If anybody has found a schematic diagram , I would be much obliged if I could have it shared with me...
Regards