Both Delta and Alpha are the same gun. Alpha has a pretty stock and different scope pic rail. Other than that they are exactly the same.
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Daystate New to Delta Wolf - Questions
- Thread starter Huncowboy
- Start date
Point of Aim is the intersection of lines below the white tape marked alphawolf...above tape was my 10 yard and then 25 yard sighters below tape is when i moved the target out to 55.
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Thanks for the explanation @Centercut
Now I just need some range time to work out best speed / reg pressure for 13.43 in 177 cal and 33.95 in .25
That elusive range time let the DW sit in the safe all but two days last year. Ended up chasing FT events every weekend.
Now I just need some range time to work out best speed / reg pressure for 13.43 in 177 cal and 33.95 in .25
That elusive range time let the DW sit in the safe all but two days last year. Ended up chasing FT events every weekend.
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This, to me, is the most intriguing aspect of the DW/AW. I really like the idea of an active feedback system that maintains consistent velocity as the ambient temperature changes.
I don’t understand why someone would pay so much money for a DW/AW and then just run it in advanced mode where you have to manually tune it and constantly adjust it. There are other less expensive guns that are just as (if not more) accurate if you like constantly tweaking settings.
Anyway, I certainly am going to tune my AW according to your suggested method. Makes perfect sense to me. I appreciate you (repeatedly) sharing your knowledge.
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Finally, yesterday got a bit of shooting in with the DW. I think I have shot around 300 rounds. A mix of FX 18.1, H&N Terminator 16.36, and some Crosman Hollow 14.3. We only got to do 35 yards. FX and H&N were great. Best one was FX 3/4 inch group. (The Crosman was only used to play with the settings and of course it did not do great.) Mind you, all this shooting was through a digital scope (Sightmark Wraith 4k Mini) which I use for night hunting. In my opinion 35y is approximately the limit of this scope. It gets pixelated a good bit at max zoom. I was very happy with the results. The plan was to move to 50 yards. But then, out of curiosity, I loaded some NSA 31.2 gr slugs and the very first one got stuck. I did not want to push the lever hard and force it in, so the fun ended here. I did not have a cleaning rod with me to push it out. It came out easily at home. It was surprising because it fit absolutely perfectly into the magazine. I guess no slugs for the DW. At least not the NSA .218-HS-HP-DB-31.2-325. I was going to do all kinds of adjustments on the regulator and follow Centercut's instructions for Factory Mode, then play with Advanced Mode, etc. Well. None of that happened. Next week perhaps.
I do have some questions:
1. At one point I was trying to deplete the rifle to see the low pressure warning (see image). I kept shooting the crosmans. It was factory setting at 900 fps with the 15.xx gr selected in the menu. The top left number kept decreasing and went all the way to 80 bars and the bottle read 110 or so. The bottom number was set to 140. I still got 900 FPS with the 14.3 gr Crosman with 80 bars on the top left. Finally, I gave up. I was afraid I was going to break something if I kept shooting with lower pressure in the bottle. Any idea how this low pressure warning works?
2. In Factory settings I could not find a way to set the exact grains. Is there a way?
Lastly, I was also very happy with the built in chrono's performance. I used the FX Chrono along with the built in and both were within 2-5 FPS consistently. I thought that was great. The one complaint I had was, the display was not bright enough for the FL sun. You can make it work creating a shadow with your hand but it is not great. Not a deal breaker.
I do have some questions:
1. At one point I was trying to deplete the rifle to see the low pressure warning (see image). I kept shooting the crosmans. It was factory setting at 900 fps with the 15.xx gr selected in the menu. The top left number kept decreasing and went all the way to 80 bars and the bottle read 110 or so. The bottom number was set to 140. I still got 900 FPS with the 14.3 gr Crosman with 80 bars on the top left. Finally, I gave up. I was afraid I was going to break something if I kept shooting with lower pressure in the bottle. Any idea how this low pressure warning works?
2. In Factory settings I could not find a way to set the exact grains. Is there a way?
Lastly, I was also very happy with the built in chrono's performance. I used the FX Chrono along with the built in and both were within 2-5 FPS consistently. I thought that was great. The one complaint I had was, the display was not bright enough for the FL sun. You can make it work creating a shadow with your hand but it is not great. Not a deal breaker.
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There is no way to set the exact grains of projectiles, the factory has the most popular grains in their settings and is just a reference, the computer and chronograph will take care of your speed whether it's 15.9 or 16.9gr. The recommended 140bar reg setting covers a broad range of velocities you might choose.
If you want to shoot 15.9s at 900, what your test showed is you could set your reg pressure as low as 80 bar maybe lower to achieve the 900 fps. That is the fine tuning part others have talked about to avoid the low fps first shot. Hope that makes sense...
If you want to shoot 15.9s at 900, what your test showed is you could set your reg pressure as low as 80 bar maybe lower to achieve the 900 fps. That is the fine tuning part others have talked about to avoid the low fps first shot. Hope that makes sense...
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That makes perfect sense!
1. Keep shooting the pellet of choice with ever lower regulator pressure values until I no longer get the desired speed.
2. Note the lowest regulator value right before the speed drop.
3. Set regulator 5 bars above.
Don't touch it again.
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I can confirm that the above "fine tuning process" which was recommended by Centercut works.
In my case I wanted to shoot the H&N Hornet 16.20 gr. For my short distance (20y) 940 FPS gave me good results but due to noise (this thing needs a moderator for sure) I decided to aim for 920. The reg was set to 140 bars coming from AoA. I have unscrewed the bottle, shot the regulator down to 0 and adjusted it to a low 60 bars (about a good 180 degrees clockwise turn on the regulator pressure knob to make it go from 140 to 60) so I could keep increasing pressure, working my way up. Increasing regulator pressure does not require depressurizing the rifle, only decreasing regulator pressure does. At around 83 bars I was getting 920 FPS. So I set it 5 bars above to 88 bars. Shot a few more times and I got 920 FPS +/- 5. Then I walked away for a coffee and let the rifle go to "sleep". I turned it on again 30 minutes lated and voila. First shot was 916 FPS. AWESOME!
The whole process was a bit intimidating to me, because I am no PCP pro for sure. But once I knew what speed I want to shoot at, it took no more than 5 minutes to find the minimum regulator pressure for that speed. You depressurize the rifle only once.
In my case I wanted to shoot the H&N Hornet 16.20 gr. For my short distance (20y) 940 FPS gave me good results but due to noise (this thing needs a moderator for sure) I decided to aim for 920. The reg was set to 140 bars coming from AoA. I have unscrewed the bottle, shot the regulator down to 0 and adjusted it to a low 60 bars (about a good 180 degrees clockwise turn on the regulator pressure knob to make it go from 140 to 60) so I could keep increasing pressure, working my way up. Increasing regulator pressure does not require depressurizing the rifle, only decreasing regulator pressure does. At around 83 bars I was getting 920 FPS. So I set it 5 bars above to 88 bars. Shot a few more times and I got 920 FPS +/- 5. Then I walked away for a coffee and let the rifle go to "sleep". I turned it on again 30 minutes lated and voila. First shot was 916 FPS. AWESOME!
The whole process was a bit intimidating to me, because I am no PCP pro for sure. But once I knew what speed I want to shoot at, it took no more than 5 minutes to find the minimum regulator pressure for that speed. You depressurize the rifle only once.
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Now I am curious, how would I go about this to reproduce the same 920 FPS in Advanced mode. I guess I would use the 90 bars regulator pressure. But what would be a hammer time and voltage? I have watched the AoA video about it but nothing really explained. Are there any article, post or anything else that explains this? I get it that a voltage increase will have the hammer hit harder. But what is the result of that? Air comes out faster? Will the bullet fly faster? What are the correlations here between voltage and timing? Reg pressure is obvious.
Also, is there any thread that lists some values for certain ammo?
Also, is there any thread that lists some values for certain ammo?
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3rd time shooting the rifle and the trigger fell off. I have not touched any adjustment screws on this.
First the rifle stopped shooting while being loaded. Then I felt/heard something fall and the rifle went off. Good thing I was pointing into the forest. I look with my flashlight and no trigger.
I think I am getting done with these $2-3k European wonders (albeit the fact that I am from there originally). First my Impact M3 kept leaking, now this thing falls apart.
First the rifle stopped shooting while being loaded. Then I felt/heard something fall and the rifle went off. Good thing I was pointing into the forest. I look with my flashlight and no trigger.
I think I am getting done with these $2-3k European wonders (albeit the fact that I am from there originally). First my Impact M3 kept leaking, now this thing falls apart.
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Curiosity killed the cat.
I do think it’s an interesting facet of human psychology that words mean so much no matter what. Shooters see “Advanced” and deep inside their psyche feel that it MUST be better than silly ole “Factory”.
Despite the knowledge that the gun was purpose built to use velocity feedback to maintain set speed and good ES/SD.
Again, IMHO if you’re going to buy the gun and only use Advanced mode, just buy a Red Wolf or a Ghost. My 2 cents.
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Well yeah LOL! I got really interested in the dwell time and hammer strength correlation. Unfortunately, I just asked for an RMA from AoA. So I will never know how advanced mode works. My trigger fell out yesterday and then the gun went off on its own right after that. Between the clunky software, the lack of documentation, and some other issues (i.e. provided cable did not charge, some finishing problems, cycling was not smooth at all) I finally decided this is going back. Ordered an Uragan 2 .22 700mm... back to basics. I am sure mine was a dud. Nobody reports problems with the DW or AW. Just unlucky.Curiosity killed the cat.
I do think it’s an interesting facet of human psychology that words mean so much no matter what. Shooters see “Advanced” and deep inside their psyche feel that it MUST be better than silly ole “Factory”.
Despite the knowledge that the gun was purpose built to use velocity feedback to maintain set speed and good ES/SD.
Again, IMHO if you’re going to buy the gun and only use Advanced mode, just buy a Red Wolf or a Ghost. My 2 cents.
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On rifles with computer is there also a hit to the valve by something in order to open it? Or the selenoid force a rotation that makes the transit of air possible?
Me, without knowing anything about the mechanics on rifles with computers I was of the idea of the second option I mentioned.
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My understanding was that all AW/DW‘s made after 3/1/23 were equipped with the Ultra valve from the factory. I don’t see info on a valve newer than the Ultra, does AOA have nearly 11 month old stock?
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To me it was sold as a $200 upgrade installed. And the gun was on sale. Actually still is $700 off on AOA. So maybe it was an old stock.
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What do you all recommend for an adjustable bag rider for a DW/AW? I’m shooting my AW off an Accutech bipod, and I need to figure something out to better stabilize the rear of the gun.
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