Nitrogen AND a compressor

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There are plenty reports of CF tanks failing because people didn't replace the water filter and pumped moisture into the tank.
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Thank you Enazle -- Please cite five cases of this. Barring that, please cite four. Barring that, I'll settle for two? Thank you in advance and very much appreciated!

EDIT: I realize text is not a proper medium for conveying tone, the intent above is said with a genuine smile, an inquisitive expression, and a head tilt to listen better. I'm happy to be educated since I believe the moisture boogeyman is a filter dealer's best friend and some kind of emotional risk-based pacifier despite a properly engineered compressor. However, if I am wrong, and you can cite evidence of such failure to the volume of "plenty reports" expressed in 'settle for two' you will have convinced me I am wrong and I will appreciate it and promptly order a downstream filter for my LC-110 unmodified.
 
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IMO, what you are thinking of doing is feasible as long as the input pressure is not higher than what the first stage would normally output. You will be effectively converting your 3 stage unit into a 4 stage. Is it practical or even beneficial? Probably not. If your compressor's filtration is doing an adequate job, there is absolutely nothing to gain. I would forget this hair brain idea and start thinking about the next one.😉
 
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That is not a CF tank failure image (inability to hold pressure) and is an image, I suspect, of galvanic corrosion due to salt water ingress. With the utmost respect, would you be willing to cite the source of the above image and another which proves the assertion stated "There are plenty reports of CF tanks failing because people didn't replace the water filter and pumped moisture into the tank."

It's not that I disagree with your assertion, nor disrespect it, it's simply that the data does not lie. If you can supply the data with citation I will be quite happy because I can trivially invest $200 or so to filter my $2000 investment and protect it ten fold. If not then, well, I'm just wasting money on risk-averse pacification.

Thank you again and much appreciated!
 
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For those of you with interest here is the setup I came up with.

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It's not perfect, it pops the disk at 4300psi and I might have to get Craig to modify the Stabilizer to be more reactive to the lower pressure range. On the plus side it works fast topping of a 30 min tank from 3600 psi to 4300 in about a minute.
 
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Ok. Here is what I’ve come up with. Haven’t tried it because some of the glue I used to make connections needs to dry. Essentially I have a 1/8 male quick disconnect on the water bottle. I cut a hole and made I think a good connection. At the original fill point on the hot water bottle I used a brass 3/4 to 1/2 pipe adaptor and cemented that into bag That I glued using JB weld ( has to set up). If I want to just run the compressor using room air I’ll put the air filter on in place of the hot water bottle.
The entire purpose of the hot water bottle is to allow me to monitor the pressure of the nitrogen. I will have a regulator down stream from the quick disconnect which I can adjust( showing in the first photo top of page). I’m figuring that the rubber hot water bottle can be adjusted so that it’s not collapsing ( sucking shut ) nor trying to blow up. My best approach to getting the in take to the compressor from the big nitrogen tank neutral. Some type of gauge would work if I knew exactly what the flow should be. This is the best I’ve come up given my limited skills. Tomorrow I should be able to give it a try.
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You know... I was going to poke fun a bit... but this actually isn't stupid at all. Too much? Pop goes the bag. Too little and you should hear the vacuum lock and change in frequency on the compressor. Just right? Inflated.

I wonder if during load towards 4500 PSI the LC-110 moves slower as load increases. You'll be able to find out.

Honestly, I was hoping to point a finger and say "LOL" but this is pretty darned smart. I like it, I like it significantly.

Edit: I still don't know why you're doing it, but honestly, now I kind of want to do it too just to see if it works.
 
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Well, he's got a good point though (bubblerboy), I feel guilty compressing free Nitrogen using my LC-110 as-is. All that Nitrogen wasted in the tank isn't being correctly recycled plus it keeps the Moisture Boogey-Man away. Rumor is if you can befriend Rube Golderberg and Mary Shelly you can create a modern prometheus to combat 'dem big foots and yeti monsters? :)
 
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My concern is to not damage the compressor. I know there has to be a better more sophisticated way to accomplish this but I believe this will work and it’s the best idea I could come up with. It might be like cooking on a camp fire while others would use a microwave but as long as the foods cooked. RIGHT?
Maybe with some input from others I can reduce the chuckle factor some. I’m no engineer but I am resourceful. I’m sure that there would be ways to measure gas pressure and flow and a way to regulate . BUT I don’t have the knowledge or equipment to do it.
it does have a bit of a Frankenstein aspect to it. Couple more studs coming out of the hot water bag for visual affect only. I think I’ll paint a face on the water bottle. Some fun.
 
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Idea: Entropy exchange?

Step 1) Cool the reception vessel with liquid nitrogen?

Step 2) Heat the donor vessel?

Step 3) Connect the donor vessel to the reception vessle?

Step 4) Open the value?

Step 5) Heat the ... something or another... I dunno. Heat and cooling. Pressures? Maybe like cool 'em both or like cool one and then throw another in a fire? Bang two of 'em together and call CQ CQ CQ?

EDIT: "vessel" is a hard word for me :)
 
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Mine is working like a champ. It's late so I will create a new tread and detail all the parts and pieces. I called Craig Palmer and he recommends I set my Primary Reg to 1000psi or below so that the target psi is in the middle range of the Stabilizer. The key is to leave the low pressure bleed partially open. So to get things going start the machine with both bleeds open. Open the target tank's pressure against the check valve in the male foster connected to the YH Filter. Then introduce the N2, adjust the flow on the stabilizer where the motor starts to drag and back off a bit and air is still exiting the LP bleed. Then close the high pressure side and the pressure will build until the check valve in the foster connection to the target tank opens. When max pressure is reached open the high side bleed then turn the machine off, then shut off the N2.

What I learned is the target psi on the stabilizer is about 20 psi. The burst disc are specked to be 1mm and they are more like .27mm. I had to double up the disc to keep it from popping the disc. I have a parts list created and will share with anyone is interested.
 
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A little further development. I realized I need a way to rapidly open the system and also a way to operate the compressor should I want to fill from room air. I put a plastic “T” in the intake line that I would leave open to use the compressor as designed.
When compressing nitrogen the red air line would be connected to the big nitrogen tank. I can cap the T closed using the cap seen hanging . So the idea would be to connect the nitrogen and get it closely regulated and then cap off the room air and fine tune the regulator watching the red bag. Once I have it adjusted I can connect the SCBA tank and begin the fill as per usual.
The only question at this point is do I need that much of a sophisticated regulator ? Be nice if I could simplify that some. 
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You will have to see. Mine is a Matheson and will not operate at anything below 300 psi. I initially wanted to have something that would take the 4500 psi in and regulate it down to 10-20 psi. If yours does and the bag holds your going to be in great shape. I blew the little plastic hose off a couple times before I got everything adjusted and figured out that I could regulate the input further by leaving the low side bleed slightly open. I don't have any tanks to fill at this point and still have 4500 psi in my N2 tank so it might be a while before I get a chance to refill. A while back a local city Fire department sold expired tanks for $20 each. I bought 5 so I have plenty of air in reserve right now.
 
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I tried it and it worked sorta. The bag wouldn’t take the pressure so I just took the adaptor I had made and connected it to the air intake to the air compressor. I turned everything on and using my thumb over the open third leg of the plastic “T” I adjusted the flow from the nitrogen tank using the regulator. I adjusted it so that it was as close to neutral as I could get it . That turned out to be just under 1000 psi on the regulator. I then caped off
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f the third leg of the T and topped of my tank. So I simplified it significantly. 



 
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