I’d have no idea what might work. Thanks for the link however. Maybe if I called they could advise me. And of course what I’m using seems ok
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Nitrogen AND a compressor
- Thread starter bubblerboy64
- Start date
I doubt that your reg is capable of handling the range that you anticipated. It sounds like 1000 psi is it's lowest usable working pressure. If you have nothing better to do and you are determined to make this work, try a two-stage SCUBA reg. They are designed to reduce HP gas to atmospheric pressure. That is what you appear to be looking for, or you could just give it up as a bad joke.
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The reason it’s requiring 1000 Psi is because I’m feeding the nitrogen to the compressor thru a micro bore line and a 1/8 inch quick connect. This likely means I’m going to only be able to draw down the tank to 1000 psi but it’s not costing me a thing to do it because I’m using parts I have on hand.
Like I said this is just something to keep me from washing the dishes for the wife or doing something else useful. I think with a little more thought I’ll figure a way to get that last 20% maybe a bigger diameter line from the nitrogen tank to the compressor allowing more flow at a lower pressure. Mom
Like I said this is just something to keep me from washing the dishes for the wife or doing something else useful. I think with a little more thought I’ll figure a way to get that last 20% maybe a bigger diameter line from the nitrogen tank to the compressor allowing more flow at a lower pressure. Mom
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On your tee connector for air intake what if instead of using the non-hermetically sealed PVC end-cap you installed an AAV? You'd probably have to neck-up to 2" threaded PVC but if you hear the AAV flapping you'd know to increase tank pressure?
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I must say this is all quite impressive. A little crazy maybe, but impressive nonetheless 
However I do have a couple of questions for Bubblerboy64 and those of you using nitrogen. I have been thinking about getting a SCBA tank to fill my PCPs. I've gone from a hand pump (!) to a Hatsan Spark when those 480 cc bottles became too much, but i'm home so much more these days, and shooting so much more that I need to go the next step. In researching the whole SCBA/compressor route, I thought about those nitrogen tanks filled to 6000 PSI. I haven't had a chance to go to a welding shop or industrial supply place, so have no idea what they cost. How much does it cost to purchase or rent a tank filled with nitrogen? Also, how large/heavy are they and will they fit in the back of an SUV? And finally, did they give you a hassle?
Chris
However I do have a couple of questions for Bubblerboy64 and those of you using nitrogen. I have been thinking about getting a SCBA tank to fill my PCPs. I've gone from a hand pump (!) to a Hatsan Spark when those 480 cc bottles became too much, but i'm home so much more these days, and shooting so much more that I need to go the next step. In researching the whole SCBA/compressor route, I thought about those nitrogen tanks filled to 6000 PSI. I haven't had a chance to go to a welding shop or industrial supply place, so have no idea what they cost. How much does it cost to purchase or rent a tank filled with nitrogen? Also, how large/heavy are they and will they fit in the back of an SUV? And finally, did they give you a hassle?
Chris
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It’s a couple hundred dollars to get a tank and an other $200 for a regulator. The tank is one heavy SOB probably 300 lbs and would best be handled in a pickup bed.
Handling the tank is the only real negative to the used of nitrogen.
if you can arrange delivery it would be easy. I found that they would not deliver to a residence.
No hassle. They are glad for the business and the $
No free lunch. PM me if you wish to talk more about this
Handling the tank is the only real negative to the used of nitrogen.
if you can arrange delivery it would be easy. I found that they would not deliver to a residence.
No hassle. They are glad for the business and the $
No free lunch. PM me if you wish to talk more about this
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There are lots of different ways to get gas to your guns. What I did here was more or less just a project. Having a compressor AND a nitrogen tank? That happened because the compressor failed and had to be rebuilt.
After three years shooting air guns what would I do today if I was starting over.
I ‘D BUY A ALKIN . Spend the money cry once. I may end up doing that down the road.
I like the idea of the dry nitrogen. Is it required. That’s debated at length and the truth is out there some where . Having four expensive PCP air guns and shooting A LOT my situation is different then most. Your priorities may and likely do differ.
After three years shooting air guns what would I do today if I was starting over.
I ‘D BUY A ALKIN . Spend the money cry once. I may end up doing that down the road.
I like the idea of the dry nitrogen. Is it required. That’s debated at length and the truth is out there some where . Having four expensive PCP air guns and shooting A LOT my situation is different then most. Your priorities may and likely do differ.
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Thanks a lot for the info. The project looks pretty cool, but I think that the key point for me in your response is the 300 lb weight of the filled tank.
I just managed to get my 260 lb circa 2003 36” Sony Trinitron XBR tube TV out of my basement and into a dumpster. It’s been sitting there in a corner in the back for years since it was replaced by a 75” Sony Flat Screen, but it was so heavy that there was no way for me alone to get it up the steps to the outside. I finally got a dumpster a couple of weeks ago and am clearing out years worth of crap. A friend and I managed to get it on a dolly, then struggled mightily to get it up the steps, then around to the garage side of the house and into the dumpster. Given that my indoor Airgun range, refill station, etc. , not to mention my firearms and some safes are all in my ‘gun room” in the basement there is simply no way I am going to be able to lug a 300 lb tank in and out on any type of schedule, regular or not
Now, if I could only clear out my garage of a motorcylce or two maybe I could keep the tank there.....
Oh wait.
My wife would probably actually want us to start parking the cars in there
I just managed to get my 260 lb circa 2003 36” Sony Trinitron XBR tube TV out of my basement and into a dumpster. It’s been sitting there in a corner in the back for years since it was replaced by a 75” Sony Flat Screen, but it was so heavy that there was no way for me alone to get it up the steps to the outside. I finally got a dumpster a couple of weeks ago and am clearing out years worth of crap. A friend and I managed to get it on a dolly, then struggled mightily to get it up the steps, then around to the garage side of the house and into the dumpster. Given that my indoor Airgun range, refill station, etc. , not to mention my firearms and some safes are all in my ‘gun room” in the basement there is simply no way I am going to be able to lug a 300 lb tank in and out on any type of schedule, regular or not
Now, if I could only clear out my garage of a motorcylce or two maybe I could keep the tank there.....
Oh wait.
My wife would probably actually want us to start parking the cars in there
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You say you have a Hatsan Spark? Just buy the addon water separator/dryers and your good to go. Also, use dive compressor oil in it like Chemlube 751. It seams to me all of the failures I have seen reported all were using the cheaper purple or non-dive rated oils. I use dry N2 to drive my compressor because it's cheap here, $55 per to refill for 480cubic feet. I also use it in the tires of me autos and trailers so it's different for me i guess.
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Enzale , I know you talked about and showed how you connected your nitrogen to your compressor. I didn’t understand . Could you take some pictures again and explain what YOU have done. I’m just interested
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THANKS. Looking at you set up it looks to be basically similar to what I’ve done with the exception that you have made a hard connection into your compressor. DO YOU AGREE ?
I’m reluctant to make that hard connection for fear of not being able to immediately disconnect if the compressor is either starved for or over pressurized .
I’m reluctant to make that hard connection for fear of not being able to immediately disconnect if the compressor is either starved for or over pressurized .
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Yes, on the YH I leave the low pressure bleed slightly open. As long as air is escaping there I feel confident the compressor isn't starving. To begin filling I open both bleeds and start the n2. Then start the compressor, once running I close the High pressure side to begin filling. Once complete I open the High Pressure bleed then turn off machine.
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Interesting project. I was going to use a haskel pump to boost N2 or even dive air to 4500psi using shop air. Economic when you can find surplus used haskel at proper ratio. As to the project at hand or any similar project I would use an ammeter on the compressor to determine if the load was increasing. If you feed the 1st stage under pressure you are asking the 1st stage to compress denser air thus more work/load. Starving the compressor would reduce load and probably would do no damage since the 1 atmosphere of suction is far less work than 100 atmospheres of compression (or whatever 1st stage pressure normally is). Possible problem would be if 1st stage is creating vacuum it might start consuming oil. A one way check valve could prevent vacuum or limit it to slight vacuum. Ammeter truly would tell you if you are laboring the compressor beyond normal operation. And yes, I believe clean, dry air is always desirable for protection of HPA equipment (tanks, guns). If it wasn't then no one would go to the trouble to create dry air for SCBA, SCUBA or any other HP air. It's not dry for sake of breathing (dries out your throat, moist air much more pleasant) but to protect pressure vessel. The effects of moisture are exaggerated as pressure increases, crudely expressed the moisture is squeezed out of air and condenses to liquid. Just a couple of percent of moisture at atmospheric pressure can puddle in the bottom of a tank at 3000psi. Moisture will damage your kit, but the question is how much? Those that call it a boogyman are simply accepting the damage as being within an acceptable risk range for their purposes and I have no problem with them doing so.
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Sounds like good suggestions. Unfortunately a bit over my pay grade. But I understand the concept. I sit with the compressor and I monitor the compressor and listen to the compressor for changes in the sound and watch the flow of the nitrogen by lifting the extended disconnect in and out of the air cleaner as the compressor is running. I think I can “tell” if it’s right. Best I can do for myself right now. I’m not getting any moisture out of the drain. Seems to be working
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Yeah but everytime you check for moisture out of the drain you've already decompressed the moisture and released it into a less pressurized atmosphere. For the theory of moisture incursion in tanks to be feasable you'd need to measure it, inside the tank, under a given pressure. Otherwise you're just asserting the boogeyman exists at compression and then confirming the boogeyman wasn't present during draining.
'Them moisture boogeymens... tons of posts on the forums about why we should be scared of 'em. Zero about actual damage. No shortage of filter sellers. Shame air guns are machines and don't need human filtered breathable air.
'Them moisture boogeymens... tons of posts on the forums about why we should be scared of 'em. Zero about actual damage. No shortage of filter sellers. Shame air guns are machines and don't need human filtered breathable air.
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True. Not a lot of science in this . More trial and error . Just trying to lower the error rate with more trails
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