HW/Weihrauch No. #2 HW30 strip down.

[bustachip]

Strip down for a look see and to clean out all the factory grease. Couple of observations, there's already some rubbing marks on the receiver. I was thinking they added a delrin piece in the cocking arm?
Also as expected the piston is slathered in grease and in front of the piston seal and in the front of the receiver.
The guide is sloppy, not even close to touching the inside of the spring, like .030 slop..lol.
Usual burrs and sharp edges to be smoothed out.
Spring looks like 29 coils of .106 wire and slightly kinked.

Anyway, I'll clean it all up, relube with Krytox, and maybe make a new guide. Does anybody have pics of the delrin insert in the cocking arm, or does it even matter?
Maybe later on I'll try to make a o-ring piston seal to see how that does. I'll have a black Rowan straight set back trigger blade for mine next week. This one is going to my nephew for Xmas.

 

[Mycapt65]

Don't bother with the cocking arm insert. It's a total waste of time. The galling comes from the sharp edges on the top of stamped cocking arm and the joint. You can match the wear marks and see for yourself. All you have to do is break those sharp edges and the raised edges on comp tube galling with emory. Grease the area with a good moly lube. Also loosen the cocking arm joint by exercising it. Do this by over extending it while oiled well.

Every Hw30/R7 experiences this. It's not fatal. The galling is visually and sometimes audibly alarming at first. It usually wears together and smooths out without any intervention. Most people never notice it happening. Yet it happens to every Hw30/R7.


Message me for my phone number if you'd like to talk about

Be well
Ron

 

[bustachip]

Don't bother with the cocking arm insert. It's a total waste of time. The galling comes from the sharp edges on the top of stamped cocking arm and the joint. You can match the wear marks and see for yourself. All you have to do is break those sharp edges and the raised edges on comp tube galling with emory. Grease the area with a good moly lube. Also loosen the cocking arm joint by exercising it. Do this by over extending it while oiled well.

Every Hw30/R7 experiences this. It's not fatal. The galling is visually and sometimes audibly alarming at first. It usually wears together and smooths out without any intervention. Most people never notice it happening. Yet it happens to every Hw30/R7.


Message me for my phone number if you'd like to talk about

Be well
Ron

Thanks for the info.

 

[Mycapt65]

Thanks for the info.

I got plenty more for that rifle.

 

[r1lover]

Ron's absolutely right about knocking the rough off the edges of the cocking arm. I've done that as well as smoothed the edges of the cocking arm slot in the compression tube and, I may be wrong about this but, my impression is that the cocking arm is hardened steel and the compression tube is not. The cocking arm will wear grooves in the tube long before the tube wears the rough edges off the cocking arm. Don't just file the cocking arm edges, sand paper (i.e., polish) them down to 400 or 600 grit.

 

[bustachip]

Ron's absolutely right about knocking the rough off the edges of the cocking arm. I've done that as well as smoothed the edges of the cocking arm slot in the compression tube and, I may be wrong about this but, my impression is that the cocking arm is hardened steel and the compression tube is not. The cocking arm will wear grooves in the tube long before the tube wears the rough edges off the cocking arm. Don't just file the cocking arm edges, sand paper (i.e., polish) them down to 400 or 600 grit.

Yes, I got the low down from Ron on the HW30.
He gave me some great information, and I appreciate that.

 

[Mycapt65]

my impression is that the cocking arm is hardened steel and the compression tube is not. The cocking arm will wear grooves in the tube long before the tube wears the rough edges off the cocking arm.

The cocking arm isn't hardened. Breaking the sharp edges is enough as long as they're rounded and reasonably smoothed. I didn't think it necessary to warn people about leaving a rough filed surface. That'd be stupid.

A tight cocking arm joint and or the sharp edges on the forward link part often contribute equally to the galling.

This happens on every Hw30 gun I've seen. The galling usually stops once the parts wear or mate together. It's just unpleasant waiting for that to happen. I'm impatient and fussy so I preemptively fix it on new guns.

BTW no amount of grease, moly or Krytox will prevent the galling from happening. Greasing it will quiet it up but wont prevent the galling until you dress (smooth) the sharp edges on the cocking arm parts.

 

[EMrider]

The cocking arm isn't hardened. Breaking the sharp edges is enough as long as they're rounded and reasonably smoothed. I didn't think it necessary to warn people about leaving a rough filed surface. That'd be stupid.

A tight cocking arm joint and or the sharp edges on the forward link part often contribute equally to the galling.

This happens on every Hw30 gun I've seen. The galling usually stops once the parts wear or mate together. It's just unpleasant waiting for that to happen. I'm impatient and fussy so I preemptively fix it on new guns.

BTW no amount of grease, moly or Krytox will prevent the galling from happening. Greasing it will quiet it up but wont prevent the galling until you dress (smooth) the sharp edges on the cocking arm parts.

Ron, do you smooth the cocking arm edges with sandpaper, or a dremel?

With my two R7s, I had mild galling, but just shot through it until it went away. For years, and many thousands of shots, they have been fine. But I just got a new hw30 from Krale and am going to open it up anyways so might as well address the problem now. Thanks
R

 

[Mycapt65]

Ron, do you smooth the cocking arm edges with sandpaper, or a dremel?

With my two R7s, I had mild galling, but just shot through it until it went away. For years, and many thousands of shots, they have been fine. But I just got a new hw30 from Krale and am going to open it up anyways so might as well address the problem now. Thanks
R

What you experienced with your R7s is what usually happens. It's annoying for a while then smooths out when the parts mate. The Hw30 I bought for my friend will probably end up the same way. Well, unless he notices and asks for help.

As far as preemptive work. DO NOT use a dremel. At least on the long part of the cocking arm. Dremels and similar rotary tools are quick way to get sloppy results. Being a mechanic and machinist by trade I have excellent hand control. I spent many hours in my racing days porting cylinder heads and intake manifolds with rotary tools and never could get a perfectly straight surface with them. You want long straight smooth surfaces not the long wavy surfaces rotary tools leave behind. It's not super critical and I guess a dremel can do the job. It just wouldn't be pretty and proper enough for me. Once metal is removed you can't easily put it back.

The best method I've found for those long sharp edges on is pushing a fine metal file along the full length. Then I lengthwise block sand the edges smooth with 240 wet dry. They don't need to be polished as much as rounded and smooth. They don't have to be rounded much either. Just enough not to cut.


The front section of the cocking arm is two stampings riveted between the folded rear stamping. That joint is usually tight and should be exercised as I belive I already posted. Inspect the top of the joint for sharp points on the two center pieces. You'll often see marks in the comp tube that match these points. Here a sanding roll on a dremel can be used to round any large sharp points on the forward link. After that I'll open that joint all the way and block sand the radius of the entire back of the joint.

In extreme cases where the gun has been used alot the galling on the comp tube can get furry and have slightly raised edges on the scoring. Assuming you bothered to just do the process above, you should remove the high points in the scoring to prevent them from making a new wear pattern or breaking off and getting in the gun.

Parallel the comp tube galling with masking tape to protect unaffected areas and block sand across the scoring. It won't look pretty as you'll loose some bluing but it will function better. The area isn't visible with the gun all together and gets coated with moly grease when done so there's no real corrosion issues to be worried about.

With all this filing and sanding its critical you thoroughly wash all the pieces involved. Filings carried by grease can get embedded in the worst places and cause you far worse problems than you just fixed.

Overall, this is a little bit of work but I helps give piece mind and smooths the gun sooner. It's worth doing if you'll already have the gun apart or it's a particularly rough sounding rifle.

HTH
Ron

 

[EMrider]

What you experienced with your R7s is what usually happens. It's annoying for a while then smooths out when the parts mate. The Hw30 I bought for my friend will probably end up the same way. Well, unless he notices and asks for help.

As far as preemptive work. DO NOT use a dremel. At least on the long part of the cocking arm. Dremels and similar rotary tools are quick way to get sloppy results. Being a mechanic and machinist by trade I have excellent hand control. I spent many hours in my racing days porting cylinder heads and intake manifolds with rotary tools and never could get a perfectly straight surface with them. You want long straight smooth surfaces not the long wavy surfaces rotary tools leave behind. It's not super critical and I guess a dremel can do the job. It just wouldn't be pretty and proper enough for me. Once metal is removed you can't easily put it back.

The best method I've found for those long sharp edges on is pushing a fine metal file along the full length. Then I lengthwise block sand the edges smooth with 240 wet dry. They don't need to be polished as much as rounded and smooth. They don't have to be rounded much either. Just enough not to cut.


The front section of the cocking arm is two stampings riveted between the folded rear stamping. That joint is usually tight and should be exercised as I belive I already posted. Inspect the top of the joint for sharp points on the two center pieces. You'll often see marks in the comp tube that match these points. Here a sanding roll on a dremel can be used to round any large sharp points on the forward link. After that I'll open that joint all the way and block sand the radius of the entire back of the joint.

In extreme cases where the gun has been used alot the galling on the comp tube can get furry and have slightly raised edges on the scoring. Assuming you bothered to just do the process above, you should remove the high points in the scoring to prevent them from making a new wear pattern or breaking off and getting in the gun.

Parallel the comp tube galling with masking tape to protect unaffected areas and block sand across the scoring. It won't look pretty as you'll loose some bluing but it will function better. The area isn't visible with the gun all together and gets coated with moly grease when done so there's no real corrosion issues to be worried about.

With all this filing and sanding its critical you thoroughly wash all the pieces involved. Filings carried by grease can get embedded in the worst places and cause you far worse problems than you just fixed.

Overall, this is a little bit of work but I helps give piece mind and smooths the gun sooner. It's worth doing if you'll already have the gun apart or it's a particularly rough sounding rifle.

HTH
Ron

Super helpful, thanks, and I'll do as you suggest
R