Umarex Notos 13ci 4500 bottle conversion parts

Just received my Notos today. Considering some mods, if the gun is accurate. Would like to keep it a light carbine but more shots are better
;D
. Not looking for a lot of power. Something around 13-16 grain pellet at 19ish foot pounds. The plenum kit might help to get close to my goal or a 13ci 4500 tank with regulator at 1500 to 1800 output. Have researched tanks and regulators but confused( not hard for me) on which would work best with the drop block on ebay. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Don
 
Don,
Your biggest challenge is proper clocking of the z-block/drop block to the guns air block. You really need a lathe to do this properly.

Also, you need to assemble the items correctly so that they seal and then pressure test your system.

There is really no difference overall in weight between the z-block with the built-in regulator and the drop block with a regulator attached to it.

The .22L carbon fiber bottle has the best overall balance between size and weight.
 
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Don,
Your biggest challenge is proper clocking of the z-block/drop block to the guns air block. You really need a lathe to do this properly.

Also, you need to assemble the items correctly so that they seal and then pressure test your system.

There is really no difference overall in weight between the z-block with the built-in regulator and the drop block with a regulator attached to it.

The .22L carbon fiber bottle has the best overall balance between size and weight.
I have a lathe. I would think, if installing the plenum and then the drop block, clocking or squaring plenum to drop block, would not be a problem unless using a terribly machine drop block. If the drop block is that much out of square, l would be very sceptable of the integrity of the whole drop block. JMHO,Don
 
I would not agree with that, it's not an issue of being square at all, it's an issue of clocking. They are billet machined from raw stock, they cut like 6061-T6.
Not trying to argue but trying to learn. If you clock, a square or rectangle 4 sided block and face off the end, are you not squaring the part? Only been running lathes and mills for 40 years but willing to learn new methods. Don
 
Not trying to argue but trying to learn. If you clock, a square or rectangle 4 sided block and face off the end, are you not squaring the part? Only been running lathes and mills for 40 years but willing to learn new methods. Don

As a secondary operation, yes, definitely. The primary operation is clocking but also, any material that is removed from the block will make it necessary to recut the o-ring groove deeper to make up for the face material that was removed.

The point I was making is that it's best to not throw all 3 things in the same bowl and stir, poor facing is not the same as " the integrity of the whole drop block."
 
As a secondary operation, yes, definitely. The primary operation is clocking but also, any material that is removed from the block will make it necessary to recut the o-ring groove deeper to make up for the face material that was removed.

The point I was making is that it's best to not throw all 3 things in the same bowl and stir, poor facing is not the same as " the integrity of the whole drop block."
I was just saying, if the block needs clocking 5 to 10 thousands, how far could the other milling operations be off. Putting an out of square block in a vise and drilling and tapping holes is going to guarantee all operations will be off a few thousands. Not building a precision device here so probably not a big deal. I would have thought they would have started with a square block. Following your conversions, liking the cocking handle and other conversions. It's usually hard to find anyone to do mods on airguns. Don