Notos barrel and baffles

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Raptor72

Raptor72

Member
Nov 29, 2020
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Mosinee,Wi United States
Has anyone re-barreled their Notos? I have one that isn’t as accurate as it should be. I’ve tried about 22 different pellets shooting 15 yds indoor best groups 5/8 or so. Always get 1-2 flyers in 5 shot group. I’m 98% sure it’s a bad barrel.
Umarex as well as PA say no parts available.
Will a pp750 barrel fit with minimal modifications? Is there any other options other than have a blank machined?

Is anyone printing standard length baffles that muffle or change shot noise better than the factory one?
 
I would be more inclined to check the two barrel o-rings first and the breech seal and make sure you aren’t leaking air during the shot cycle. Clean the barrel while you have it out and have a look inside. I’ve not heard of anyone having a bad barrel yet in the Notos. But it’s certainly possible.
Best advice, check for the easy, cheap, simple fixes first before you open your wallet and shake it upside down. In my experience most problems usually come down to an o-ring that’s deteriorated or that was nicked upon installation.
 
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I recommend getting the barrel threaded and recrowned.

My Notos shoots surprisingly accurate with Crosman HP and dome pellets.

IMG_1077.jpeg
 
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Snowpeak (OEM of the Notos) has a track record of scoring the rifling at the muzzle by using a piloted crowning tool. Check for it. Here's an example...sorry, it's not one of my better photos.

Chaser rifling damage.jpg


Here's the result after removing about 1/4" and recrowning. Immediately began grouping great.
chopped and crowned sm.jpg


Or it could just be a crummy crown leaving a burr at the muzzle:
crown before sm.jpg

If so, a brass screw and abrasive may do the trick.
 
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I have cleaned up action grub screw holes and transfer port best I could. Replaced chewed up outer barrel orings with closest size I could find(.1x9 or 9.5 don’t remember). I need to pull barrel again to see if rings are good after burr clean-up.
Replaced breech seal and passes tissue test.
Pulled patches till clean then JB paste patch on a string back and forth 50ish times and re cleaned. Couldn’t see much with just flashlight so guess I’ll need to find someone w/borescope or buy a cheap one to inspect thoroughly.

I wasn’t wanting to destroy baffle housing just yet to try a re-crown. At this point maybe nothing to lose though.

Paul,when you removed ldc from barrel, was there any way to use slip on adapter instead of threaded barrel?

Thanks guys,anything else I’m missing or can try please let me know.
I did pick up a second Notos and am very pleased with it but a little quieter is a plus for me.
 
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If the two barrel tenon O-rings (or the breech O-ring for that matter) are damaged sufficiently to cause accuracy problems, it will manifest as velocity swings you can see on a chronograph. Granted there are many potential causes for velocity swings, but suffice it to say if you are getting stable velocities (say, within 3%), the problem isn't the O-rings.
 
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Raptor72 said:
Thank you,I feel better about removing plastic and still be able to moderate if crown works out for the best.
Anyone have advise on moderator removal other than heat, cut/saw and patience?
Click to expand...

Yupper, DONT do it.

There is no good way, it was designed as a one time trap upon the overmold process to keep that plastic on the barrel. The moderator can only be removed via its destruction.
 
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Firewalker said:
Yupper, DONT do it.

There is no good way, it was designed as a one time trap upon the overmold process to keep that plastic on the barrel. The moderator can only be removed via its destruction.
Click to expand...
If it's a problem with the crown doesn't have much of a choice what good is it if it isn't accurate?
 
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Shaping a piece of brass rod is a good idea. Another idea is make a simple extension…take a piece of brass or steel tubing, tap it to accept the screw and threadlock it into place. Now you have something whatever length you need.

A #6 is a suitable size for .22 cal. The head will be about 0.260” diameter…big enough to not pass into the bore, and likely small enough to get past any baffles.

With that said, bear in mind it’s not optimal to develop a crown bevel with a fixed angle of attack. It’s best to be moving the drill through a random orbiting motion, otherwise what tends to happen is a uneven bevel forms and/or a Reuleaux triangle is created. And in this scenario there is no way to visually inspect your work as you go unless you have an endoscope.
 
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