An even easier option would be to get a firearm cleaning rod. Most have a threaded adapter to accept the various cleaning tools..male. But the rods have a female connecter which is either 6-32 or 4-40..
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Notos barrel and baffles
- Thread starter Raptor72
- Start date
Good idea. Although if I’m remembering correctly, the common sizes jump from #5-40 to #8-32, skipping #6.
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Yep you're probably correct..I just eye-balled a separated rod..didn't have any "try-it" nuts or screws.
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bf1956,
For your info. Air stripper in the cf shroud. 1/2x20 endcap for any moderator.
My Notos shot quite good for a $260 gun in stock form. Now it shoots great after the re-crown.
I need to test a variety of 22 pellets that normally I don't use for pesting because they aren't known for small groups on paper. Like HN crow magnums.
For your info. Air stripper in the cf shroud. 1/2x20 endcap for any moderator.
My Notos shot quite good for a $260 gun in stock form. Now it shoots great after the re-crown.
I need to test a variety of 22 pellets that normally I don't use for pesting because they aren't known for small groups on paper. Like HN crow magnums.
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you can remove the moderator end cap to remove the baffle, I used a drill press with a punch about 1/16" and pushed out the pins holding the end cap, the pins are knurled so it makes them hard to just hammer punch them out, you should have plenty of room to access the crown with the end cap and baffle removed, also there are people making 3D printed baffles for the Notos, ask FLgunner, he can help you
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I was able to get a good oscillation using a hand drill while the barrel was chucked up in the lathe. I was able to de random movements and get a good crown polish.
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BTW, anybody wanting to borrow this burnisher, reach out to me and Ill ship it to you and you ship it back. You pay both ways and Ill send the lapping compound along with.
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Hello. I just bought a Notos and I so badly want to take it apart but I'm afraid to with out a diagram. Umarex says they don't have a parts list yet. Can you help me out with which screws do I loosen first and where? thanks.
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You will need to heat the grub screw under the pic rail to loosen the glue they use to lock it in the hole.
I use a soldering pen with a narrow tip to heat it up.
I use a soldering pen with a narrow tip to heat it up.
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Take off anything blocking your screw on the top picatinny rail. Then take off screw. Then deep under that is a tiny Allen key head screw. May be lock tite in. That's the grub screw that holds the barrel in place. Then pull firmly out direction of the front (muzzle) and it should kinda pop out.
Thing you'll need to be weary of is the 2 o rings holding the barrel in / air in when you shoot are extremely thin o rings and are prone to cutting or tearing.
Also, it isn't keyed so you have to also watch putting it back on so the transfer port by breech is facing down. I think there is a little indent where that tiny Allen grub screw goes but it still needs extra attention to install correctly
Thing you'll need to be weary of is the 2 o rings holding the barrel in / air in when you shoot are extremely thin o rings and are prone to cutting or tearing.
Also, it isn't keyed so you have to also watch putting it back on so the transfer port by breech is facing down. I think there is a little indent where that tiny Allen grub screw goes but it still needs extra attention to install correctly
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