Umarex Notos cocking got gritty

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iFish said:
Just another note, there is a bolt that screws into what we're calling the firing pin. If you place an allen key into that bolt, push down and attempt to slide the cocking lever, it will slide smoothly back and forth. At least mind does. Remove the pressure and it jams instantly again. I tried to back that allen screw out a bit as it hits the hammer, hoping it would put enough pressure on the firing pin to allow it to move freely. Didn't work at all.
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I think as you put pressure on the firing pin, your then putting pressure on the hammer bushing that also binds up some. Plus it would just cause it to cant, and cause it not to slide smoothly with fired.. making another issue..

That bolt had loctite on it.. probably the only one I've found.. when re assembling I suggest at least a low strength on most of the screws.. I had the trigger adjustment screw loosen and cause the trigger to become un predictable.. .I also had the rear screw to the grip assembly loosen, that would cause the gun to fire when bumped.. Didn't realize the grip was lose, it was a very little amount of play but enough to cause the release to fire off.
 
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I was highly skeptical, but my moly paste just arrived.. I polished the firing pin, and knocked off any burrs I felt dragging. That alone made no long term difference... I applied such a light layer of moly paste to the firing pin, especially on the back, and on the inside of the frame...

I concluded the front bushing rubs but really is not the cause of binding, It was removed in the video below (this was just before the moly paste showed up), the front bushing made no difference at at all. so my thought that it being ever so slightly bent, probably not a factor

In the video, the lever is a big factor in the action binding, I used an allen key to slide the pin which was effortless vs the lever that would cause binding every time.. seeing this made it even more confusing that the little bit of moly paste did anything.

@iFish , applying light pressure to that internal screw also allowed smooth operation, I think it kept the lever from tweaking the rear of the pin.


Re assembled and it's so smooth... I actuated the lever a good 50 times. Idk how long the paste will last, and it will need to be torn down to apply thoroughly , vs the silicone lube that would find its way around .. the 15$ rws silicone lube is trash.. I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00295ER76?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title - this was the cheapest and the only one that had prime shipping.. the air venturi was about 10$ more, but was a week plus to arrive.

No front bushing, no hammer spring


After moly paste - fully assembled - it may not look like it, but every time the lever is pulled back - it was fully engaged.
 
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Avator said:
Have I not read many times that silicone grease is not good for lubing metal to metal surfaces?
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I'd normally agree with that statement, but per the Umarex notos manual, they suggest the RWS Chamber lube that is 100% silicone for the "surfaces around the bolt" ...

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iFish said:
Mine grabs a bit earlier than what I saw on yours. Regardless, for $12, it's worth a shot. I just ordered and it will arrive tomorrow.

@Tim23 where exactly did you put the moly?
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I just took everything apart again, wanted to put a bit of loctite on everything... reassembled, and its smooth. Now I just need to site back in; the scope mounts are such trash and not in alignment. Just one more complaint.


As far as Moly Paste - wear gloves, and you just need a little.. that tube should last a lifetime

Using the tiniest artist paint brush, I applied it to everything in the bolt chamber... the breach probe (aka firing pin).. I stopped short of the area that protrudes where the magazine goes, didn't want any to get into where the pellets seat... (doubt it would hurt) I put the tiniest amount on the front bushing.. I also coated the piston (aka the hammer spring bushing).. and then just a little bit inside the frame where everything slides. Not sure how well I got them, but tried to work the bristles into the lever pins/pivot points.

Basically anywhere metal touches metal.. while apart I also dabbed some on top of the trigger where it contacts the lever, as well as the dowls that hold the trigger and lever...
 
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The Liqui-Moly arrived. But first, I heard from Umarrex. I responded and am waiting to hear back.

I applied the Moly, basically everywhere. The result is, everything is working. And, that just blows my mind.

All of that said, I do have gouging present as a result of what happened. I'm hoping Umarex will want to see this so that a redesign can occur so that others in the future won't have the issue(s). Fingers crossed on that. If they replace the housing where all of the gouging occurred, even better. Here's hoping...
 
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iFish said:
The Liqui-Moly arrived. But first, I heard from Umarrex. I responded and am waiting to hear back.

I applied the Moly, basically everywhere. The result is, everything is working. And, that just blows my mind.

All of that said, I do have gouging present as a result of what happened. I'm hoping Umarex will want to see this so that a redesign can occur so that others in the future won't have the issue(s). Fingers crossed on that. If they replace the housing where all of the gouging occurred, even better. Here's hoping...
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Glad that worked out, they at least need to change the directions and recommend something more than a few drops of silicone every 500 shots.. With how how much force it was taking and how badly it would bind, impressive that a little paste got it operating smoothly...

I'm glad, I really didn't want to deal with sending it in... I would have just ended up buying a new pcp that cost way too much that I don't need.
 
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Tim23 said:
Glad that worked out, they at least need to change the directions and recommend something more than a few drops of silicone every 500 shots.. With how how much force it was taking and how badly it would bind, impressive that a little paste got it operating smoothly...

I'm glad, I really didn't want to deal with sending it in... I would have just ended up buying a new pcp that cost way too much that I don't need.
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Agree on their instructions. Maybe I'll reply to Umarex to tell them it's been corrected, not by following their instructions, but following the suggestions here on Airgun Nation and they should pat attention to what the community is saying and change their instructions accordingly. Who knows, they may even listen for a change.

@Tim23 thanks for the help and conversation on the subject.
 
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