N/A Notos Huben regulator/valve o'rings

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nobody1

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Sep 4, 2021
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I have installed the Huben regulator on my Notos.
Discovered that it leaks through the small part in the photos bellow.

I spent 3 hours trying various o'rings and nothing worked.

The part has 2 grooves for o'rings at both ends of the thread.
The groove diameter is 4.5mm and the total diameter is 6mm.

I assume that an o'ring with an ID of 4.5mm and a CS of 1mm would fit.
Does anybody know what o'rings are needed?
Should the o'rings have a high duro (90, or 70)?

20241002_144751.jpg


20241002_144725.jpg


20241002_144633.jpg
 
There’s always confusion about it, but the standard naming convention for metric Orings, is that the size is the ID (inner diameter) x CS (thickness).
It makes sense too, since an Oring is normally supposed to go around something, so you can simply measure the diameter of that object with calipers. Now you have the size of the Oring fixed, and you vary the thickness to determine the seal and ease of installment. (i.e there’s only one variable…)
 
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MartinT said:
There’s always confusion about it, but the standard naming convention for metric Orings, is that the size is the ID (inner diameter) x CS (thickness).
It makes sense too, since an Oring is normally supposed to go around something, so you can simply measure the diameter of that object with calipers. Now you have the size of the Oring fixed, and you vary the thickness to determine the seal and ease of installment. (i.e there’s only one variable…)
Click to expand...

I use a tapered o-ring sizer for checking the ID, you can get a close idea of ID with veneer calipers but it's easy to be 1/4 mm off.
 
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Using the setup below it leaked again after 20 minutes.
So you can ignore the rest of the post.

I have managed to fix the leak.

I have used 2 o'rings with ID: 4mm and CS: 1mm.
These o'rings will be destroyed when the bleeder screw is removed and need to be replaced.

The leaking was likely caused by an o'ring piece stuck in the screw hole.
I have used tweezers to remove all o'ring pieces.

I have tried various other o'rings
  • ID: 4mm, CS: 1.5mm - cannot be installed since the o'rings is too big and will be destroyed
  • ID: 3mm, CS: 1.5mm - could not install again because they are destroyed
  • some other I do no remember
Firewalker, I am not sure the o'ring you mentiond (ID: 6mm, CS: 1.5mm) would work.
The OD of the bleeder screw is 6mm, the groove ID is 4.5mm.
 
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nobody1 said:
Using the setup below it leaked again after 20 minutes.
So you can ignore the rest of the post.

I have managed to fix the leak.

I have used 2 o'rings with ID: 4mm and CS: 1mm.
These o'rings will be destroyed when the bleeder screw is removed and need to be replaced.

The leaking was likely caused by an o'ring piece stuck in the screw hole.
I have used tweezers to remove all o'ring pieces.

I have tried various other o'rings
  • ID: 4mm, CS: 1.5mm - cannot be installed since the o'rings is too big and will be destroyed
  • ID: 3mm, CS: 1.5mm - could not install again because they are destroyed
  • some other I do no remember
Firewalker, I am not sure the o'ring you mentiond (ID: 6mm, CS: 1.5mm) would work.
The OD of the bleeder screw is 6mm, the groove ID is 4.5mm.
Click to expand...
If that is in fact a bleed screw (it appears to be due to the tapered point), the sealing should take place at the point. No oring should be necessary as they would only impede the bleed function. And as you state, would probably get destroyed during bleeding. I am curious what the bottom of the hole looks like where the point would seat.

I do not have this valve so I may be misunderstanding the function of the screw.

Dave
 
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nobody1 said:
Using the setup below it leaked again after 20 minutes.
So you can ignore the rest of the post.

I have managed to fix the leak.

I have used 2 o'rings with ID: 4mm and CS: 1mm.
These o'rings will be destroyed when the bleeder screw is removed and need to be replaced.

The leaking was likely caused by an o'ring piece stuck in the screw hole.
I have used tweezers to remove all o'ring pieces.

I have tried various other o'rings
  • ID: 4mm, CS: 1.5mm - cannot be installed since the o'rings is too big and will be destroyed
  • ID: 3mm, CS: 1.5mm - could not install again because they are destroyed
  • some other I do no remember
Firewalker, I am not sure the o'ring you mentiond (ID: 6mm, CS: 1.5mm) would work.
The OD of the bleeder screw is 6mm, the groove ID is 4.5mm.
Click to expand...

Be a sceptic, I understand what you THINK the dimensions are but the picture attached is of the o-rings and screw I pulled from my tester Notos and I reinstalled them after going through my index to find you a set of the same o-rings.

They absolutely are the correct o-rings.

20241002_204100.jpg
 
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sb327 said:
If that is in fact a bleed screw (it appears to be due to the tapered point), the sealing should take place at the point. No oring should be necessary as they would only impede the bleed function. And as you state, would probably get destroyed during bleeding. I am curious what the bottom of the hole looks like where the point would seat.

I do not have this valve so I may be misunderstanding the function of the screw.

Dave
Click to expand...

No, the valve is NOT a bleeder, it's a stop valve for the bottle only.

The o-rings sit only on the barrel portion of the screw, shown in this picture where the arrows point to the place where they contact the screw.

The tip is a tapered compression fitting that stops the air from leaving the bottle when fully seated.

20241002_204100.jpg
 
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Firewalker said:
No, the valve is NOT a bleeder, it's a stop valve for the bottle only.

The o-rings sit only on the barrel portion of the screw, shown in this picture where the arrows point to the place where they contact the screw.

The tip is a tapered compression fitting that stops the air from leaving the bottle when fully seated.

View attachment 501624
Click to expand...
I have spent another 2 hours today with this and still leaks.

Where do the o'rings go ?
Are they in any of the grooves?

Can you take a photo of the part with the o'rings installed, or make some sort of drawing ?
 
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nobody1 said:
I have spent another 2 hours today with this and still leaks.

Where do the o'rings go ?
Can you take a photo of the part with the o'rings installed ?
Click to expand...

I'm very sorry but I can't get a pic of the inside of the body. I'll steal YOURS though.

The 2 o-rings are stacked at the TOP of this hole, just inside, barely separated from each other by a thin band.

Locations indicated by two red arrows in the attached picture.

20241002_144725.jpg
 
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Firewalker said:
I'm very sorry but I can't get a pic of the inside of the body. I'll steal YOURS though.

The 2 o-rings are stacked at the TOP of this hole, just inside, barely separated from each other by a thin band.

Locations indicated by two red arrows in the attached picture.

View attachment 501626
Click to expand...
I assumed the o'rings would be in the top and bottom groove of the screw.

So, the o'rings do not get in the hole?
How do they stay at the TOP of the hole with all the air pressure under them?
 
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nobody1 said:
I assumed the o'rings would be in the top and bottom groove of the screw.

So, the o'rings do not get in the hole?
How do they stay at the TOP of the hole with all the air pressure under them?
Click to expand...

They are held in place inside cutouts inside the well. Grab a good flashlight and a pic, the first one is just 2mm inside the well, the second one is just 4mm inside the well.

There are NO o-rings past the thick red lines shown on the above picture.
 
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Firewalker said:
They are held in place inside cutouts inside the well. Grab a good flashlight and a pic, the first one is just 2mm inside the well, the second one is just 4mm inside the well.

There are NO o-rings past the thick red lines shown on the above picture.
Click to expand...
I have never seen anything like that.
I would have never figured this out on my own.

Do you need to tighten the screw all the way?
 
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nobody1 said:
I have never seen anything like that.
I would have never figured this out on my own.

Do you need to tighten the screw all the way?
Click to expand...

Yes.

The operation is as follows. Turn CW all the way in to stop all air from the bottle to the drop block. Dry fire 3-4 times to empty the drop block. Adjust regulator etc. Turn the screw 1 full turn CCW and the bottle opens, fills the gun, ready for action!
 
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Firewalker said:
Yes.

The operation is as follows. Turn CW all the way in to stop all air from the bottle to the drop block. Dry fire 3-4 times to empty the drop block. Adjust regulator etc. Turn the screw 1 full turn CCW and the bottle opens, fills the gun, ready for action!
Click to expand...
I have tried to place the 2 o'rings (ID: 6mm, CS: 1.5mm) into the grooves in the screw hole.
I could not figure out how to do it.

How did you place the 2 o'rings in the grooves in the screw hole?
 
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