Objective lens sizes....your preference?

I've read and read and I understand the purposes for different sizes of objective lenses....at least on paper. What about real world use on air rifles? I'm not talking about you guys that are all about the long range sniper action, I'm talking about the guys that are more backyard bandits that are targeting and hunting at around 10-50yards.

Are larger objective lensed scopes more durable than a 38mm scope? Or can the smaller size handle more abuse from the springers?

What's your real world preference? 
 
The objective lens just gives you field of view. Large lens more field of view and vice versa. Has nothing to do with clarity. Clarity comes from the quality of the glass,coatings and grinding. Tube size can help with clarity as the larger the tube size, the more light is omitted to your eye thru the ocular lens. So when looking for a scope don't scrounge on the $$. You get what you pay for!
 
Based on reading about other people's preferences when it comes to scopes I feel I'm the opposite of most shooters. Instead of 52mm objective lenses and 40X magnification I've always preferred the smaller more compact scopes. I've found that scopes with a 32mm objective is about perfect for me. When it comes to magnification I've never needed more than a 3-9 power. This is with my powder burners as well as air guns.

Now of course everybody's needs are different. I fit your description as a backyard target shooter normaly shooting out to no more than 50 yards. I'm not a long range varmint Hunter or a precision bench rest shooter so I just don't need those massive scopes. Finally I never cared for the looks of those really big scopes mounted on rifles.

I don't believe a bigger objective lense makes a scope more durable. That would depend on the brand.






 
The objective lens just gives you field of view.

Large lens more field of view and vice versa.



Just to keep this real — the field of view (FoV) largely depends on the magnification that a scope is set to, not the objective lens.



However, every scope is different.

Scope A 3-9x40 set at 3x magificaction might have a 28ft wide FoV — and

Scope B 3-9x40 set at the same magnification might have a 35ft wide FoV.



If FoV is important to you, check the scope specs before you buy. 👍🏼👍🏼 



Matthias




 
I spent most of the summer learning to shoot offhand at 6x. Sounds simple but it was much harder to me than 4x. Just like any scope vs open sights. I like to shoot off hand so anything more than a 9x will be wasted on me. I think you can look at all the numbers and reviews but what you can do and how you shoot are the most important part of picking a scope. I’ve looked through Nightforce scopes at 500-1000 yards but unless I was on a bench rest I would be lucky to hit the backstop offhand. they are bright and clear but useless to me. If you are shooting 1/2 hour after sunset a bigger objective lens or better scope is worth the money. But if it’s spinners at high noon not so much. To me it’s retical and repeatable turrets that out weigh objective lens size. 
 
The Leupold 3-9x33 EFR has been my strongest Springer scope and brightest as well even compared to many 56mm scopes.

Why do you think that one is the brightest even though it has a smaller lens?

Because its a Leupold. 


Leupold has been one of the best hunting scopes for decades. When I got my first one over 30 years ago I was amazed at how much earlier and later I could see in the woods while deer hunting. This is one of the big reasons they were so popular back then. A lot of big game move more at first and last light and sometimes minutes do matter when hunting. Leupold knew this and really put focus on their lens coating to be brighter and more clear than the competition especially in low light. They have made changes to the coatings many times since then and haven’t been complacent with what they had, they always wanted to make them better. This to me is the main reason why they are brighter, they saw the need from customers and were the best and strived to be better.


 
I have two scopes @ 32mm, two @ 40mm and one @ 44mm.

I prefer smaller scopes for their lighter weight and more compact dimensions.

This is my current favourite on top of my Kozak. It's a 3-12x32 FFP with IR and yes it's tiny. Just 8" long and 400g in weight it suits the Kozak well. 

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IMG_20210118_001301.1611343615.jpg

 
If the eye relief sux then it does not matter how good the glass is or size of objective lens is to me.

I don't want to struggle for target acquisition.



Just to keep confusion to a minimum.... 😊👍🏼 



🔶(A) Eye relief is the distance that they eye should be from the ocular lens in order to see the full scope image. It usually is a range, and commonly somewhere between 3.0" and 4" from the ocular lens.

Eye relief is different for every scope, but since airguns don't have much recoil, this is not of huge importance (but it would be for a rifle with high recoil, because a short eye relief of say 3" could give you "scope eye" — black & blue from hitting your eye because it was too close for the heavy recoil).





🔶(B) Eye box is this illusive "box" that the shooters eye has to be "in" — in order to see the full scope image without any shadowing at the edges.

▪The smaller the eye box the more the shooter has to keep his/her eye in the same position to keep the full scope image ("finicky eye box"). The larger the eye box the more forgiving it is when the shooter moves the eye a bit ("forgiving eye box").

▪A bench rest shooter can deal much better with a finicky eye box than a hunter that is trying to get a off-hand shot on a moving squirrel.



▪"Eye box" is not a spec that is given by the manufacturers.



However, the eye box does depend on the size of the exit pupil of the scope. And that is a spec that is either given, or can be calculated (divide objective lens diameter by the magnification used).

❌ This brings us back to the topic of this thread — objective lens diameter....

▪I'll attach a PDF with a short table that already has the calculations of the exit pupil size done — for 8 objective diameters and 15 magnifications.

download.png
View attachment SCOPE Exit Pupil Size Recommended. 02.1611383827.pdf



▪The recommendation is that the exit pupil size should not be smaller than 2.0mm to avoid a finicky eye box, and larger than 3.0mm is much more forgiving yet.





🔶(C) Target aquisition has to do with how wide your field of view (FoV) is at the range where you try to find ("aquire") your target.

Try to "find" a squirrel at 15 yards, with a 20x magnification scope...! Very hard to "aquire" because your FoV is so narrow.

The same squirrel at 100 yards, with 20x magnification, shouldn't be so hard! 👍🏼

▪For quicker target aquisition when stalking and hoping to stumble upon prey at very close range I would recommend a FoV of at least "30ft at 100y". Many scopes at 3x have that kind of FoV.



Hope this clarifies some of the finer details of scopes. 😊 👍🏼

Matthias


 
Good information Matthias, so often when talking about scopes, it’s all about clarity and brightness. That’s what people always want to talk about first. Yes, that’s important but there is so much more to a quality scope than brightness and clarity alone...Things like field of view, amount of eye relief, the eye box, glass quality, amount of lenses, types of coatings and are they on all surfaces or just the external surfaces, gas used for purging and waterproofing, reticle type, turrets, is there a zero stop, tracking reliability, close focus distance, objective diameter, tube size/amount of elevation and windage travel, FFP vs SFP, construction quality and materials, illuminated or not, warranty, reliability, weight, the companies reputation of course... the big one, price.

Everybody wants something different from a scope and should put these factors in order based on their wants and needs. For example, most all of my big game hunting scopes are either 3-9x, 4-12x or 6-18x, my varmint scope is a 6-24x, my PRS scopes are 4-20x and 5-25x, my benchrest or long range scopes 15-60x, 10-40x or 5-50x and my LPVO scopes are 1-8x or 1-6x. I have some expensive scopes but I have some cheap ones too, ironically, the cheapest one I own just broke! There are a ton of great options these days for whatever you might need. If you’re going to spend good money on a quality optic, you better be able to prioritize what’s important to you and why! 

Have a good one. Stoti