Official Thread - Alkin owners - check in!

What version alkin did you purchase?

  • Auto

    Votes: 13 38.2%
  • Manual

    Votes: 21 61.8%

  • Total voters
    34
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I got the Horizontal model W31 , How do you tell if you got the auto drain?View attachment 464914
That's a vertical, without auto drain. There are several features to identify the auto drain model, some of which are solenoid valves (electronic 'blocks') where you have manual valves on the left-front of the compressor.

GsT
 
Thanks guys I got my Horizontal and vertical mixed up, To much work and not enough sleep will do that to me, 12 years ago when I was filling my great white it was 35 to 45 dollars from 3000 to 4500 fill , The cheapest was in Midland 38 miles away and the highest was in Odessa 20 miles away, Both took about 3 to four hours to fill bottle had to work me in just to fill bottle, Or you could rent one of those big 6000 psi nitrogen bottles for 300 a month with free refills.
Just FYI here in the middle of West Texas, And if you look at the big picture , I am getting off pretty cheap with the Alkin.
Mike
 
Yea, My knobs fell off when I was doing the 10 minute break in , The bottom one air came out fast, Scared the crap out of me had a hard time putting it back in with the pressure, Your not suppose to have the knobs screwed in while starting , Unscrew let it run then screw them in , That's what I read.
Mike
 
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Yea, My knobs fell off when I was doing the 10 minute break in , The bottom one air came out fast, Scared the crap out of me had a hard time putting it back in with the pressure, Your not suppose to have the knobs screwed in while starting , Unscrew let it run then screw them in , That's what I read.
Mike
I stretch a long rubber band across both bleed knobs, it keeps them from vibrating out when open. It just occurred to me that a couple wraps of Teflon tape should also work. I’ve got 3 bottles to fill today, so I’ll give it a try.
 
Hmm...
If any of the bleeder valves are open...Just a crack.....
Let alone about to fall off......
You should hear the air escaping!!
Also you should notice the decrease in pressure build-up...If you are watching your gauge(gauges..)
This happens only when purposely running with the bleeders open, such as during warm-up with no load, or cool down when done with the compressor. I don’t know that everybody does that, but I do.
 
I do the same to warm up or cool down... I leave the purifier closed... let the system build up pressure then crack open bleeder
on the moisture separator between 2nd-3rd stage (my old w31 on has the one...)
This keeps pressure up in last stage to eliminate piston slap/rattle!!
Don't have the problem of the bleeder knob falling off though...
 
Yes mine came with a valve to drain the oil, Also a tube so you can get the oil out farther, I see the oil on the site is a little expensive but not as expensive as the Mobil one jet oil I had to use in the Shelden, The jet oil was like 35 to 40 a QT ,, Just glad I don't own a JET,,
Mike
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IMG_2190.JPG
 
Yes mine came with a valve to drain the oil, Also a tube so you can get the oil out farther, I see the oil on the site is a little expensive but not as expensive as the Mobil one jet oil I had to use in the Shelden, The jet oil was like 35 to 40 a QT ,, Just glad I don't own a JET,,
MikeView attachment 466530View attachment 466531
That’s a nice addition to make oil changes simpler.
 
Shut Down Procedure.......
Once fill pressure is reached...Shut Down the Alkins
Then close tank valve
Now Flip Alkin's fill valve handle to close valve and vent air between valve and tank.
Bleed the moisture traps and purifier of any moisture.
With the fill valve still closed, turn on compressor.
Now squirt about 15 to 20 mls of compressor oil into the Air intake.
Run for about 1 minute, open bleeder on the traps and purifier.
Shut all valves, let compressor run a couple of seconds to build up a little pressure,
shut down compressor, open fill lever to expel pressure in hose.
Close fill valve, put cover on compressor

Stuart
Whats the purpose of squirting oil into the air intake isnt that bad for the compressor and the whole reason it has an air intake.
 
This is the procedure for Long Term Storage...
Since I don't run my compressor Daliy..
This is to protect the exposed metal surfaces with a thin coat of oil.....
I am not pouring a pint of oil... I am squirting a 15cc of oil....
Let the oil process through, build up some pressure, the open the bleeders....
Blow out the excess.....
 
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Who tops off multiple tanks? I did early this morning and I’m sure I did something out of order. I think I opened the second tank’s valve too soon before the compressor fill line matched the tank pressure. I’m also wondering if I should’ve opened the 1st and 2nd stage valves before restarting the compressor after I shut off the compressor to disconnect tank #1 in order to connect to tank #2nto begin topping off. I know I can watch a video and I will later. I’m posting this in the event someone else has a brain fart or mixes up the order of things in their fill process.

Someone correct me, what should I have done and not done?
 
I use this one way check valve from air tanks plus. Attach it to your tank and completely open the valve. No air will backflow into the compressor. This way you never have to worry about matching the pressures when filling the tanks. I also will bleed the air completely from the compressor between tanks , and let it start up with no load each time. When done filling , I run the compressor about 5 minutes with the drain valves open to clear out any residual moisture.

Screenshot 2024-06-28 07.06.31.png
 
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