Ok I got the 2240. Now what?
- Thread starter .20calguy
- Start date
I may be mistaken but you could be able to clock the barrel band (and barrel along with it) enough to get the sights to cooperate anyhow
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I've actually gone two days without shooting any of them. Life is a bit wound up at the moment, but I have a four day weekend coming.
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That is what I first thought.
I also thought about adding a rubber, or nylon washer into the cap. I'll go find a parts breakdown and check that.
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I have a 2260 that was purchased new. I had the same issue and resolved it by replacing the piercing pin/valve. The tip of the original pin was dull. Using spacers or tightening up the tube cap won't solve the problem. The cartridge is pierced by cocking the gun and pulling the trigger. My 2260 took 6 or 7 pin strikes before the cartridge was pierced.
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For the front sight. You can tap it off by holding a stick on the rear edge and tapping it off with a small hammer. When you get it off you will see that there is a flat on the inside to match up with the barrel. Use a Dremel or rat tail file to remove the flat and make the I D round. You will now be able to re-mount the sight in a clock position that favors your sight line.
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If you modify the flat as suggested, how do you keep the sight from moving after it's adjusted ? You could drill and tap a hole just behind the blade and install a grub screw. The sight is soft and the threads might strip when you tighten the screw up.
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The plastic sight has mold draft so it wedges onto the barrel. However if for some reason it were to be easy to rotate, I would apply just a bit of epoxy. Maybe a grain of rice worth, that way you could knock it free again if you needed to.
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http://airgunartisans.com/crosman_2240.htm
what we old time 2240 guys had to look at but parts are not the same now way harder to find
what we old time 2240 guys had to look at but parts are not the same now way harder to find
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I thought I would look up this thread to add an update to the piercing problem I was having with the 2240.
My CO2 cartridges were thirty or more years old, from when they were made with heavy steel. The gun had no problems with the new CO2 cartridges, and worked as descibed.
My CO2 cartridges were thirty or more years old, from when they were made with heavy steel. The gun had no problems with the new CO2 cartridges, and worked as descibed.
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Regarding sights. On my 2240 I put a Buck Rail supressor with front sight post ($22). Now it's quiet and it has a longer distance between sights. Left the rear sight alone. More accurate now and is still light weight.
buck-rail.com
Crosman 2240 Suppressor
Crosman 2240 Suppressor 3D Printed from Polycarbonate plastic in the US by a veteran-owned business Designed for the Crosman 2240. Compatible with 2250, 2260, 760, 2289 and more Replaces the plasti…
buck-rail.com Last edited:
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Regarding the cap being tight / difficult to turn, that shouldn’t be a problem. Try reading over the following comments and see if something is a mismatch to what you’re observing or experiencing.
When a fresh cartridge is installed, the cap need only be tight enough to press the nose of the cartridge up against the face seal on the valve. Finger tight is usually sufficient…or maybe hand tight if the seal is aged and worn.
Then when it’s time to remove the cap to replace a spent cartridge, there will usually be some pressure remaining. This residual pressure does apply some load to the threads but not a lot. If memory serves, the opening in the seal is 0.2” at most. A full cartridge (~850psi) would be exerting against an area of 0.031in^3 which produces only about 26lbs of force acting on the threads. As a worst-case figure, that shouldn’t make the cap so hard to turn that it would damage the threads.
When a fresh cartridge is installed, the cap need only be tight enough to press the nose of the cartridge up against the face seal on the valve. Finger tight is usually sufficient…or maybe hand tight if the seal is aged and worn.
Then when it’s time to remove the cap to replace a spent cartridge, there will usually be some pressure remaining. This residual pressure does apply some load to the threads but not a lot. If memory serves, the opening in the seal is 0.2” at most. A full cartridge (~850psi) would be exerting against an area of 0.031in^3 which produces only about 26lbs of force acting on the threads. As a worst-case figure, that shouldn’t make the cap so hard to turn that it would damage the threads.
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I solved that mystery.
I was using vintage CO2 cartridges, and they're a much heavier steel, including the pucture plate.
One day the CO2 carts, went on sale and I bought some new ones, and they worked.peefectly as discribed.
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How was the heavier steel causing the problem? The cartridge does not get punctured by tightening the end cap. Whether the seal is thick or thin, torque on the end cap should be the same.
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