I also had broken parts, the air filter was destroyed, the pressure gauge was dislodged and the mounting bracket bent and the fan cover and mounting bolts were bent. I fixed the gauge mounting bracket and straightened the fan cover. Replaced the hardware with personal stock, Hatsan sent me a replacement filter assembly.
I did all the startup stuff. The only problem was when calibrating the gauge. The compressor shuts down a couple hundred psi short of the auto stop pressure. I tried calibrating several times but still does the same thing. I'll contact tech support about the issue but I'm not to concerned.
Filled a couple gun cylinders with no issues. This past weekend I connected the compressor to a empty 74 cu.ft.tank.. Fired the compressor up, filled the tank with no problems to report. Max temp was around 165.
Sameole- I found a solution to this problem of calibration. You have to “trick” the compressor.
When in the calibration mode, instead of setting the shut down psi for 4350, set it for higher. For example, my compressor shut off when my remote test gage was only at 3900 psi(going off of memory here, but you’ll get the gist). So what I did was set the compressors shut off for like 4870(going off of memory) and when it shut off my remote test gage was at 4500 or so.
i slowly opened the bleed screw at the fill whip and slowly bled out air till the remote test gage read 4350 then closed off the bleed screw. Then, I just finished the calibration on that “30” setting for 4350 psi. To date, I am only like 50 psi off, so I’m keeping it there.
lastly, the manual doesn’t say anything about getting out of calibration mode. Shut down the compressor as the manual explains, then unplug the cord for a few seconds. Re plug, then make sure to set your new psi shut off(for tank or gun) BEFORE turning on the coolant switch, for if you turn the switch on first, it will default to the last setting you punched in for shut off. I’ve figured out that the coolant switch holds more duties than just turning the water pump and cooling fan on. To prove this, try turning on the compressor with out turning on the coolant switch. It was actually designed well as a fail safe.
to the one posting about pressure not holding- my fill whip connection needed re tightening, along with every hard line connection from compressor to filter, and from filter to purge solenoid. Tighten these fittings when the compressor is hot. Just a short stab of the wrist, for about a 1/8 turn is all that’s needed. Don’t go gorilla on those fittings!
i added 6 ounces of the Redline water wetter to my 60/40 mix of distilled water/Zerex GO5. That Zerex is designed for Diesel engines, and my coolant temps have hovered at around 140 degrees for a tank top off taking 15 minutes(3400-4500 psi).
i have 120 ounces of distilled water in my tank, and 80 ounces of the Zerex.
I recently read here on AGN of a person whose fill whip end connection(female QD) explode due to it being made out of brass. I plan on swapping mine out for a SS one shortly.