So what's the consensus are one piece scope mounts better then traditional two rings mounts on springers and gas rams?
N/A One piece mount vs traditional two rings
- Thread starter Peghead
- Start date
Yes, 1 piece mounts are usually best. I would only use seperate rings for a lightweight scope on an HW30 or HW50. Some folks have had some big field target scopes that the center part where the turrets attach would high center in a 1 piece mount though.
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I use Burris Signature rings on everything. They allow you to keep turrent adjustments to a minimum plus the plasric inserts help with isolating vibration from the spring to your scope. I have a D54 in .22 that was a problem until I switched the the above. None of my springers have a 1 piece mount.
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I find one piece mounts to be easier to work with, and have never had any scope compatibility problems.
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No I would say they are not any better, I have Hawke 2 piece mounts on HW77’s, TX200’s, RWS350, and RWS48.
None of my scopes move. As long as the mount you are using has a screw for stopping it from sliding it will work just fine.
None of my scopes move. As long as the mount you are using has a screw for stopping it from sliding it will work just fine.
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My preference is single piece for high shock guns, when possible.
For your application i recommend the most stout rings you care to afford. After being cheap on rings and optics for 15 years I learned not to skimp there, especially rings/mounting.
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One piece mounts are a fitment problem with many scope/rifle combinations. If you are a long armed guy and use an extended LOP your going to have problems with eye relief.
After several dozen rifles, a couple dozen scopes and a bucket full of rails I've learned a lot.
Big scopes are hard to hold. Scopes mounted high are hard to hold. Keep the scope as low as possible and use the smallest objective that you can. Avoid heavy scopes with lots of goodies. The more weight/mass you have and the higher it is the more its going to slip.
Quality (Sportsmatch) 2 piece rings get the scope low and work best with any scope. Mounts with an arrestor pin at the rear will not slip. Know the torque specs. Get a torque driver and use it.
One piece mounts are great if they work. My experience with getting the proper eye relief has not been good. Often the mount works but does not allow for adjustment. Some scopes won't mount in some one piece mounts. Recoil lugs may or may not put the mount where it needs to be.
Picatinny are often high and put the scope up too high. If you get the scope low the rails are often too long and you are cutting the lugs off the front to slide your scope back. Rails work dandy for almost any scope though. And you can adjust ring height to get your scope as low as possible.
Proper eye relief and cheek weld play heavily on how you mount a scope. You need to be able to mount the rifle with your eyes closed in natural shooting position and open your eyes to a perfect sight picture. Without raising or lowering your head. Without moving back or forward. If you need to move the scope forward or back there needs to be adjustment for it in your mounting interface. If you need to raise your cheek off the stock you need to lower the scope or raise the cheekpiece.
What type of rings are the best? The ones that mount the scope as low as possible and put the eyepiece the proper distance from your eye in your natural shooting position.
After a small fortune in rings, mounts and scopes I use Sportsmatch low dovetail 2 piece rings for 34mm scopes and mediums for 40mm objectives. They work perfectly on all my air rifles and any scope I own.
Once you mount a scope you may find the gun shoots low and you need some droop compensation. The scope needs more angle to the barrel to get zeroed without using all your elevation adjustment.
If you need a tapered mount there are very few options that don't put your scope too high. Burris rings are an excellent solution directly mounted to the dovetail or on a picatinny rail. There are adjustable bases and all types of solutions. But it's trial and error and can get expensive finding a mount that provides the optimal height, correct eye relief and provides the proper droop correction.
After several dozen rifles, a couple dozen scopes and a bucket full of rails I've learned a lot.
Big scopes are hard to hold. Scopes mounted high are hard to hold. Keep the scope as low as possible and use the smallest objective that you can. Avoid heavy scopes with lots of goodies. The more weight/mass you have and the higher it is the more its going to slip.
Quality (Sportsmatch) 2 piece rings get the scope low and work best with any scope. Mounts with an arrestor pin at the rear will not slip. Know the torque specs. Get a torque driver and use it.
One piece mounts are great if they work. My experience with getting the proper eye relief has not been good. Often the mount works but does not allow for adjustment. Some scopes won't mount in some one piece mounts. Recoil lugs may or may not put the mount where it needs to be.
Picatinny are often high and put the scope up too high. If you get the scope low the rails are often too long and you are cutting the lugs off the front to slide your scope back. Rails work dandy for almost any scope though. And you can adjust ring height to get your scope as low as possible.
Proper eye relief and cheek weld play heavily on how you mount a scope. You need to be able to mount the rifle with your eyes closed in natural shooting position and open your eyes to a perfect sight picture. Without raising or lowering your head. Without moving back or forward. If you need to move the scope forward or back there needs to be adjustment for it in your mounting interface. If you need to raise your cheek off the stock you need to lower the scope or raise the cheekpiece.
What type of rings are the best? The ones that mount the scope as low as possible and put the eyepiece the proper distance from your eye in your natural shooting position.
After a small fortune in rings, mounts and scopes I use Sportsmatch low dovetail 2 piece rings for 34mm scopes and mediums for 40mm objectives. They work perfectly on all my air rifles and any scope I own.
Once you mount a scope you may find the gun shoots low and you need some droop compensation. The scope needs more angle to the barrel to get zeroed without using all your elevation adjustment.
If you need a tapered mount there are very few options that don't put your scope too high. Burris rings are an excellent solution directly mounted to the dovetail or on a picatinny rail. There are adjustable bases and all types of solutions. But it's trial and error and can get expensive finding a mount that provides the optimal height, correct eye relief and provides the proper droop correction.
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The goal is no scope movement,plus the best eye placement and to be comfortable.I have a long neck,higher mounts work better,but then an adjustable butt plate may be needed for the comfortable offhand hold. Sometimes I must compromise;Sometimes the rifle just will not be comfortable.There is a special one piece mount for the RWS,Diana 48-52-54,it has a lip that catches the back of the "breach" it also has 10 or 20 degree angle ,crazy as it seems as the springer is a sidelever..it works for me...
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