So what's the consensus are one piece scope mounts better then traditional two rings mounts on springers and gas rams?
N/A One piece mount vs traditional two rings
- Thread starter Peghead
- Start date
Yes, 1 piece mounts are usually best. I would only use seperate rings for a lightweight scope on an HW30 or HW50. Some folks have had some big field target scopes that the center part where the turrets attach would high center in a 1 piece mount though.
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I use Burris Signature rings on everything. They allow you to keep turrent adjustments to a minimum plus the plasric inserts help with isolating vibration from the spring to your scope. I have a D54 in .22 that was a problem until I switched to the above. None of my springers have a 1 piece mount.
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I find one piece mounts to be easier to work with, and have never had any scope compatibility problems.
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No I would say they are not any better, I have Hawke 2 piece mounts on HW77’s, TX200’s, RWS350, and RWS48.
None of my scopes move. As long as the mount you are using has a screw for stopping it from sliding it will work just fine.
None of my scopes move. As long as the mount you are using has a screw for stopping it from sliding it will work just fine.
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My preference is single piece for high shock guns, when possible.
For your application i recommend the most stout rings you care to afford. After being cheap on rings and optics for 15 years I learned not to skimp there, especially rings/mounting.
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One piece mounts are a fitment problem with many scope/rifle combinations. If you are a long armed guy and use an extended LOP your going to have problems with eye relief.
After several dozen rifles, a couple dozen scopes and a bucket full of rails I've learned a lot.
Big scopes are hard to hold. Scopes mounted high are hard to hold. Keep the scope as low as possible and use the smallest objective that you can. Avoid heavy scopes with lots of goodies. The more weight/mass you have and the higher it is the more its going to slip.
Quality (Sportsmatch) 2 piece rings get the scope low and work best with any scope. Mounts with an arrestor pin at the rear will not slip. Know the torque specs. Get a torque driver and use it.
One piece mounts are great if they work. My experience with getting the proper eye relief has not been good. Often the mount works but does not allow for adjustment. Some scopes won't mount in some one piece mounts. Recoil lugs may or may not put the mount where it needs to be.
Picatinny are often high and put the scope up too high. If you get the scope low the rails are often too long and you are cutting the lugs off the front to slide your scope back. Rails work dandy for almost any scope though. And you can adjust ring height to get your scope as low as possible.
Proper eye relief and cheek weld play heavily on how you mount a scope. You need to be able to mount the rifle with your eyes closed in natural shooting position and open your eyes to a perfect sight picture. Without raising or lowering your head. Without moving back or forward. If you need to move the scope forward or back there needs to be adjustment for it in your mounting interface. If you need to raise your cheek off the stock you need to lower the scope or raise the cheekpiece.
What type of rings are the best? The ones that mount the scope as low as possible and put the eyepiece the proper distance from your eye in your natural shooting position.
After a small fortune in rings, mounts and scopes I use Sportsmatch low dovetail 2 piece rings for 34mm scopes and mediums for 40mm objectives. They work perfectly on all my air rifles and any scope I own.
Once you mount a scope you may find the gun shoots low and you need some droop compensation. The scope needs more angle to the barrel to get zeroed without using all your elevation adjustment.
If you need a tapered mount there are very few options that don't put your scope too high. Burris rings are an excellent solution directly mounted to the dovetail or on a picatinny rail. There are adjustable bases and all types of solutions. But it's trial and error and can get expensive finding a mount that provides the optimal height, correct eye relief and provides the proper droop correction.
After several dozen rifles, a couple dozen scopes and a bucket full of rails I've learned a lot.
Big scopes are hard to hold. Scopes mounted high are hard to hold. Keep the scope as low as possible and use the smallest objective that you can. Avoid heavy scopes with lots of goodies. The more weight/mass you have and the higher it is the more its going to slip.
Quality (Sportsmatch) 2 piece rings get the scope low and work best with any scope. Mounts with an arrestor pin at the rear will not slip. Know the torque specs. Get a torque driver and use it.
One piece mounts are great if they work. My experience with getting the proper eye relief has not been good. Often the mount works but does not allow for adjustment. Some scopes won't mount in some one piece mounts. Recoil lugs may or may not put the mount where it needs to be.
Picatinny are often high and put the scope up too high. If you get the scope low the rails are often too long and you are cutting the lugs off the front to slide your scope back. Rails work dandy for almost any scope though. And you can adjust ring height to get your scope as low as possible.
Proper eye relief and cheek weld play heavily on how you mount a scope. You need to be able to mount the rifle with your eyes closed in natural shooting position and open your eyes to a perfect sight picture. Without raising or lowering your head. Without moving back or forward. If you need to move the scope forward or back there needs to be adjustment for it in your mounting interface. If you need to raise your cheek off the stock you need to lower the scope or raise the cheekpiece.
What type of rings are the best? The ones that mount the scope as low as possible and put the eyepiece the proper distance from your eye in your natural shooting position.
After a small fortune in rings, mounts and scopes I use Sportsmatch low dovetail 2 piece rings for 34mm scopes and mediums for 40mm objectives. They work perfectly on all my air rifles and any scope I own.
Once you mount a scope you may find the gun shoots low and you need some droop compensation. The scope needs more angle to the barrel to get zeroed without using all your elevation adjustment.
If you need a tapered mount there are very few options that don't put your scope too high. Burris rings are an excellent solution directly mounted to the dovetail or on a picatinny rail. There are adjustable bases and all types of solutions. But it's trial and error and can get expensive finding a mount that provides the optimal height, correct eye relief and provides the proper droop correction.
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The goal is no scope movement,plus the best eye placement and to be comfortable.I have a long neck,higher mounts work better,but then an adjustable butt plate may be needed for the comfortable offhand hold. Sometimes I must compromise;Sometimes the rifle just will not be comfortable.There is a special one piece mount for the RWS,Diana 48-52-54,it has a lip that catches the back of the "breach" it also has 10 or 20 degree angle ,crazy as it seems as the springer is a sidelever..it works for me...
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The signature rings are excellent. Most Burris designs are. I have them on powder burners. If they didn't require a pic rail adapter to get them on my Weihrauchs I'd try them. For now, my two piece Sportsmatch rings work perfectly on all my Weihrauchs with no ugly adaptors.
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I have used single mounts such as Sportsmatch or BKL when I need droop compensation but often couldn't get quite the sight picture I wanted, particularly with compact scopes. I have also had success with UTG droop compensating picatinny rails using low mounts. The Burris mounts with the plastic offset inserts works really well for me. They can take some trial and error to get the right combination of inserts, but once setup you can really trust them to do the job. I wish they gave you a full set of offset rings with each purchase, but they don't. Neat thing is you can use the offset rings to correct windage issues too.
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I use BKL double strap two piece on everything with a dovetail mount! You get a perfect inline over the bore every time and they don't move on the rail even on magnum springers! Only time I would use a one piece is if there's an extreme droop problem to compensate for. Works really well on rimfires too because of the perfect center over the bore especially for long range!
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Optics and mounts are two things that have improved immensely over what they were in the old days. I remember when I was a teenager in the 80's and I got one of the very early model RWS34s. I couldn't get a scope to stay put on it. It seemed that over the course of 100 shots or so that it would always migrate across the rail, People were already talking about how springers would eat up scopes, but the real issue was that 90% of the rings that were available back then were pure dog sh!t. Rimfires weren't regarded as much more than toys either and to get any mount made for an 11mm dovetail that wasn't absolute garbage you had to mail order from some place like Beeman and mail ordering was a real PITA. These days I can go to Amazon and get a good copy of Sports Match rings delivered in a day for $9 or a one piece mount for $15.
If your scope keeps moving on you, what I recommend is to grab a bunch of Q-tips, some paper towels, rubbing alcohol and a knife and clean out your dovetails until there is no more dirt, grime or grease left in them, then apply a little blue Loctite to the dovetail and re-attach your scope.
If your scope keeps moving on you, what I recommend is to grab a bunch of Q-tips, some paper towels, rubbing alcohol and a knife and clean out your dovetails until there is no more dirt, grime or grease left in them, then apply a little blue Loctite to the dovetail and re-attach your scope.
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Bob you give a lot of good advice. But not all. Couple things we differ on. As I shoot mostly benchrest free recoil or offhand I use high rings and mounts to help keep my face off the stock. No problem with scopes slipping by using Burris rings with inserts or in Sportsmatch rings. With conventional rings like Sportsmatch simply put 1 layer of masking tape in each bottom half, torque to 17 inch pound and your scope will not slip within the rings and this includes heavy 34mm tube scopes. I enjoy your posts Bob, we are mostly on the same page.
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No you can't. The knock offs aren't a shade of the same quality. They don't center on a 11mm dovetail. The scope saddles aren't cut perfectly round. The material is soft and won't hold the same torque. The fasteners are roughly cut from inferior materials. The stop pin is threaded, offset and smaller.
Please don't promote this garbage. They may work for you, but in no way are they remotely similar in quality. Splurge and spend $25 and get really well UK made rings instead of cheap crap Chinese knock offs.
That includes Hawke's Match mounts. The only thing they have in common is general appearance. I still have sets of these and UTGs from before I knew better. I gave a friend a Hw30 for a gift last December and I couldn't bring myself to mount his scope on a set of left over knock offs. I gave him a brand new set of T02C rings with the rifle.
Sorry for jumping so hard on this but I hate bad information being perpetuated on forums. And this is bad information.
IMO the Sportsmatch are the best choice for a direct mount 11mm dovetail. Even over BKLs. And no tape is neeped to prevent scope slip. Use the four screw rings and cross torque the caps to 16 inlbs and it'll hold on anything.
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I did use a few Hawk rings but found their stop pin wrong. The loose fitting, screw in stop pins end comes to a point. I had to cut this off. And threads are part of the stop. Cheesy. Crow
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I’ve got many sets of Sportsmatch and BKL mounts as well as their Chinese knock offs and you’d be hard pressed to detect any difference. Do you somehow think that the Chinese can make $1000 scopes, $5000 drones and airguns like the Hubens but that they can’t produce a simple piece of aluminum properly? In all likelihood the scope you have mounted on your rifle is Chinese.
These are a few of the mounts I have lying around.
These are a few of the mounts I have lying around.
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On most mounts they didn’t exist back then and my RWS34 did not have a scope stop hole. Then you’ve got other guns that you simply don’t want to mar the finish on. These are the scope stops on my Beeman Kodiak. No way I’m using a stop pin on that.
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