Beeman Ordering things for a rebuild, new to the sport...which lubricants etc should i add to my cart. thank you

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student

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Mar 31, 2025
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I was able to find most of the seals and the .177 projectiles recommended to me by the awesome members of this forum.... for the Beeman 800 and Daisy 717 air pistols .

I read so many different posts regarding which oils or products to use. One manual i found online recommended that only non-petroleum products should be used.

Not sure which lubricants and products are preferred. I've seen mention of moly paste, ballistol, superlube, krytox and silicone.

Is there a modern consensus.....specific brands to shop for would sure help. I have ballistic and i have o-ring lube for a swimming pool at home, I almost purchasedKEZE Silicone Grease Automotive PTFE Lubricant Sliding Glass Door Grease Tube 92003
but didn't want to risk buggering things up.

Also, Do you use different products on the springs and yet other products on the seals and yet other products on hinges?

These pistols were gifted to me by a very dear friend and i want to take good care of them.
 
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Heavyweight silicone oil used for treadmill exercise machine maintenance and plumber's silicone grease are ideal for "O" rings, petroleum-based products are not. Silicone isn't best for lubricating where "O" rings aren't involved, so I'd search out YouTube pistol-specific rebuild videos for what's recommended. WM
 
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the 2 pistols are different animals
the Daisy can just be lubed with Crosman Pellgun oil
now the Beeman or Diana model 6 would use something different
i use ULTIMOX 226
the Diana uses very little lube and the springs can take some but little is needed
the pistol has a 3 spring set up and they are very small in diameter a very light coating
the seal and gears need grease
so after the tube is cleaned and cleaned and clean i take my scaping dowel and put a sponge or foam in the slot with some of my lube and coat the inside of the tube and put lube on the back side of the seal
rear seal can take i very little the gears get some at a point of assembly
i will tell you up front
the cocking linkage pin has to come out and the barrel has to come off and the why is the tube end will need to be soaked IF the seal is Original
the pin in the linkage has splines in the middle of it and that pin was press in and hammer and punch will remove it but it doesn't tap out you have to pound it out and that pin will be filed down before reassembly
the model 6 with the plastic grip frame has the same pin but the pin is not splined and just tap out

you my friend are in for an interesting ride and i am here to help and if you bought red seal from ARH you will have problems they are oversize
all i can do for you
Mike
 
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Fantastic information...thank you.

I will purchase some ultimox 226

the Beeman has a metal frame....and I did order the ARH seals. i guess i'll have to sand it down to fit?

i'm very grateful and will reach out when i receive all the parts and start to get a better handle on what i'm dealing with....i hope i'm not over my head with this project but right now the air pistol doesn't function and it would be a shame not to get it going again. The air pistol looks to be in lovely overall shape and it now holds a special meaning for me.
 
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i had a guy years ago send me his Diana 6m and he sent the seals and they were red
now getting seals on the pistons is about as hard as you can imagine you need to make a tool have a clamp well my point is once they are on you are not taking them off
the piston are not round so it is hard to spin them i guess a lathe would work but that is a tool few have so you have to turn the geared pistons in your hands and try to make fit
now that was then and i have no idea what you will get but i cursed though seals to the point i almost cut them off and use the blue ones i had for myself and the rear one will not be any problem
but if they are too tight and know what i think i know the pistol will be down on power
so i have a question do you know the pistol needs new seals

here is my thinking
the Giss Pistol take some knowledge but it takes tools clamps and ways to get the caps off and this and that without the right tools you will get very frustrated and the first one is a steep learning curve but we are here to help
 
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thank you.

I'm brand new to this....as such I hope that my description makes sense.

I lever the barrel down to charge the pistol and expose the breach.
I then inserted / loaded a .177 pellet (I was gifted one container of pellets with the air pistol and they are marked .177 cal as is the air pistol).
I then closed the breach by levering up the barrel till it clicked shut and solid.
With the target and surrounding safely oriented i pressed the trigger.
The pellet never left the breach......it remained exactly as i had loaded it.
I thought that this most likely meant that there was not enough air impulse to fire the projectile.
 
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