Need recommendation for a paint/finish stripper to use on a walnut Feinwerkbau 602 stock. I would prefer to start with a stripper as there are some areas that will be hard to steel wool and or sand. I would like to maintain contures and defined edges. I think a solvent based vs water based would be best as it would not raise the grain like water.
FWB Paint Stripper recommedations
- Thread starter jkingrph
- Start date
How bad is the original finish? Is it flaking?
I recently redid a p70jr and the stock looked at first like it needed redoing. Lots of fading and yellowing.
I ended up wet sanding it, polishing with fine automotive polish and waxing. Turned out looking better than new.
I recently redid a p70jr and the stock looked at first like it needed redoing. Lots of fading and yellowing.
I ended up wet sanding it, polishing with fine automotive polish and waxing. Turned out looking better than new.
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I used to have a local firearm restoration business. I did a lot of stock work as well as hot salts bluing. I'd use ordinary, full strength strippers like Zip Strip and Kleen Strip etc. Often times it would take three or four applications to remove all of the original finish.
My technique was to apply the chemical with a disposable paint brush and allow it plenty of time to work, at least 20 minutes or so.
When the finish began to bubble up, I'd scrub the chemical and the loosened finish off of the walnut under running COLD water and repeat as many times as necessary. I learned the hard way not to use hot water because it caused a reaction with the chemical which would generate visible fumes which distorted the air almost like a mirage does. These fumes are toxic and rather overpowering.
I'd use a soft brass bristle brush to clean out checkered areas as well as other little "tight spots". When finished, I'd allow the wood to air dry in a dry environment. Near a woodstove is ideal. Not so close as to heat the wood, but in the vicinity in order to ensure that the wood dried thoroughly. From there, some fine (220 grit) wet or dry paper was usually all that was needed to cut back the grain which of course would raise significantly after being soaked under running water several times. From there, some final sanding with progressively lighter grits usually up to 400 grit and then whatever finish you decide upon can begin.
My technique was to apply the chemical with a disposable paint brush and allow it plenty of time to work, at least 20 minutes or so.
When the finish began to bubble up, I'd scrub the chemical and the loosened finish off of the walnut under running COLD water and repeat as many times as necessary. I learned the hard way not to use hot water because it caused a reaction with the chemical which would generate visible fumes which distorted the air almost like a mirage does. These fumes are toxic and rather overpowering.
I'd use a soft brass bristle brush to clean out checkered areas as well as other little "tight spots". When finished, I'd allow the wood to air dry in a dry environment. Near a woodstove is ideal. Not so close as to heat the wood, but in the vicinity in order to ensure that the wood dried thoroughly. From there, some fine (220 grit) wet or dry paper was usually all that was needed to cut back the grain which of course would raise significantly after being soaked under running water several times. From there, some final sanding with progressively lighter grits usually up to 400 grit and then whatever finish you decide upon can begin.
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Old sock method. You need a giant plastic bag (zip loc preferred) old socks and a gallon of cheap hardware lacquer thinner. Take some old athletic socks pull them over both ends of the stock and soak the whole thing in lacquer thinner and seal up well in a plastic bag. Give it 8 hours and check it out. The lacquer thinner pulls the finish off into the socks. Any remaining finish will brush off the stock with a brass file brush or stiff tooth brush. It may take a few pairs of socks and couple times to get all the finish off.
It should be needless to say, but this has to be done outdoors with proper gloves. Regular commercial dishwashing gloves work well.
I used this to strip Weihrauch beech and laminate stocks without problems. this is infinitely easier and more effective than any paint stripper available. I've tried them all. Plus it's a good way to get rid of old socks you were too cheap to throw out.
It should be needless to say, but this has to be done outdoors with proper gloves. Regular commercial dishwashing gloves work well.
I used this to strip Weihrauch beech and laminate stocks without problems. this is infinitely easier and more effective than any paint stripper available. I've tried them all. Plus it's a good way to get rid of old socks you were too cheap to throw out.
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I started yesterday with some steel wool and lacquer thinner. That will do it but extremely slow. Then switched to some 220 w/d sandpaper and got some areas but still slow. Have some paint remover on order, I made sure to get one rated to get lacquer and polyurethane. Probably brush it on, wait and use a scotchbrite pad to remove
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No flaking, but when I ordered the gun, I knew it had some issues. The seller showed a lot of very shallow dents alongside the rail in the forearm. Fortunately the wood was proud enough of that rail that I was able to sand down an eliminate the dents, There is another in the moveable cheekpiece which will need a bit of steam. This was probably an upgraded stock, walnut with a good bit of flame grain so will look good when I get it finished. I have the action off to David Slade for resealing. He said most likely 4 weeks due to his normal backlog, which is usual with him, so plenty of time for the stock work
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Would love to see pictures of the stock. Dave does great work, used to shoot field target with him when he lived in California a lifetime ago.
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Made a trip to the hardware store this morning and picked up some paint stripper. It really made the job much quicker. A little bit of scraping with a single edge razor blade, then wiped excess off after a few minutes then went over it with some coarse steel wool and repeated a couple of times. That old finish was thick and tenacious in spots and still took some scraping. Ended up with a light sanding with some 220 then 400 grit sandpaper followed by an application of Minwax red oak wood finish. I was really looking for a straight stain, but just shook this one up no stirring so no signs of a lot of pigment like some of the old oil base stains. Wiped it off after a minute or so and got a nice red brown color. Will apply another coat in a couple of hours per directions, and will try to get some pictures in a couple of days.
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A couple of pics after stripping, an application of Minwax red oak finish, and one application of boiled linseed oil. Will repeat linseed oil daily for at least a week. The area along side the rail, especially that topside had what appeared to be hundreds of dents, fortunately they were in the old finish and not extending down into the wood, The oil is really bringing out the color and grain in the wood.
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Hard to find a good paint stripper these days EPA and such. sandpaper and a lot of elbow grease.
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I found this ad in classifieds from 2022 . Don't know what the seller got for it but asking was high. I ended up paying $400 plus 42 for shipping.
Collector Quality FWB 602 Meister Grade SSP Match Air rifle with dry fire capability in excellent condition. Highly figured solid Walnut stock Jim recalled in the last 17 years. Complete with improved ergonomics over the FWB 601 ie better cheek piece and adjustable butt plate .Improved match sights and rear sight has a large antiglare tube also has high sight set up for improved offhand stability .This has the triple front muzzle weight system& clear front sighted UIT accessory rail. Metal is 95% and outstanding working order, The bipod is not included in the sale but could be added upon agreement . Please not in the pics some scuffing on the one side of the bottom of the fore grip as shown in the pics and was that way as I got it . Only reason I am selling as I need to run a scope for my old eyes and this one would need mods to do so that I am not willing to change from it's intended design . Happy to chat about the rifle and able to provide a phone contact. Check my refs here on the Feedback and plenty of 100% feedback on the bay. Price is $1175 plus shipping Continental US only accepting PayPal for payment add 3.5% on top of Shipping for total price .
Collector Quality FWB 602 Meister Grade SSP Match Air rifle with dry fire capability in excellent condition. Highly figured solid Walnut stock Jim recalled in the last 17 years. Complete with improved ergonomics over the FWB 601 ie better cheek piece and adjustable butt plate .Improved match sights and rear sight has a large antiglare tube also has high sight set up for improved offhand stability .This has the triple front muzzle weight system& clear front sighted UIT accessory rail. Metal is 95% and outstanding working order, The bipod is not included in the sale but could be added upon agreement . Please not in the pics some scuffing on the one side of the bottom of the fore grip as shown in the pics and was that way as I got it . Only reason I am selling as I need to run a scope for my old eyes and this one would need mods to do so that I am not willing to change from it's intended design . Happy to chat about the rifle and able to provide a phone contact. Check my refs here on the Feedback and plenty of 100% feedback on the bay. Price is $1175 plus shipping Continental US only accepting PayPal for payment add 3.5% on top of Shipping for total price .
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