My large 30 min SCBA is a bit cumbersome to drag around. So looking at my 4500psi Luxfer 88cu paintball tank that I setup with a 5000psi SCUBA K-valve. To this I connect a K-valve adapter manifold that ends with a 1/8" quick connect. The K-valve started to leak so before I try to rebuild it I saw some paintball tank setups called "remote". It's a valve that screws on top of the existing paintball valve with a hose and quick connect. But the original paintball tank is 4500 psi and comes down-regulated to 800psi or 3000psi. Is there a 4500psi paintball "remote" valve? And do they take out the down-regulator from the paintball tank valve before connecting the "remote" and leave it there permanently?
Here is an example of the setup from the web, but I suspect it's max. 3000psi only:
Seems to leak from the valve handle. Where can I find a rebuild guide or kit for it? Decided that it would be smarter to rebuild the leaking K-valve on top of my tank since this setup worked before. I bought the valve about 7 years ago and I know it is rated 300bars. It says U.S. DIVERS CO, SANTA ANA, CA and has "PB" stamped on the top and it has the same threads (5/8?) as a paintball valve. I have a bunch of o-rings already.
Well, found the answer on the net, should have looked better replaced faulty o-ring at valve stem.
"....Drain air from the tank. Valve repair requires disassembly. For that, you will need a tool which fits the nut in the center of the knob. This tool looks like a wide screwdriver with slot in the center of the blade. Behind the nut is a spring, knob and washer. Remove these parts along with the nut. Now, you will see that the threaded stem is held in place by a large nut called a bonnet. Use a box end wrench to remove the bonnet. Make sure the valve is well secured in a vise with brass or aluminum jaws. The stem will likely come out with the bonnet. Set aside and observe how the stem forms a seal inside the bonnet. This assembly is also called a "gland". There will be an O ring or teflon washer, rarely both. However, old USD valves used a teflon washer. Inside the valve, there is a valve holder. Unscrew for inspection and set aside all parts for cleaning and lube (christolube). Observe that in the bottom of the cavity is a copper washer. If this washer is hard to remove, try dislodging it with a sharp tool being careful of the valve body. If the washer appears otherwise usable it is permissable to leave it in place unless the valve is to be oxygen cleaned..."
replaced faulty o-ring at valve stem.