Done painted too ... Tho on Aluminum where some scuff prior to paint can be done. Not so sure I would be comfortable scratching up an CF wrap bottle for painting
Upvote 0
The aluminum inside is a liner to ensure it’s “airtight”. I’ll try to hunt down the reference documentation but this point has been raised multiple times before. Going off memory, the ‘strength’ does come from the CF wrapping. It’d be interesting to chop a 3k AL tank and have it side by side with the one in the image above.I'll wager that the main strength of CF tanks come mainly from the alloy and most of the tanks supplied only have a minimal layer of CF over the top which will give extra strength, but I doubt they rely on that, and looking at most tanks the transfers that have been applied will have to have something over them and I would be surprised if it wasn't just a coat of 2K clear or matt.
I’m sure the carbon fiber adds some amount of strength as well as protecting the aluminum from dentingThe aluminum inside is a liner to ensure it’s “airtight”. I’ll try to hunt down the reference documentation but this point has been raised multiple times before. Going off memory, the ‘strength’ does come from the CF wrapping. It’d be interesting to chop a 3k AL tank and have it side by side with the one in the image above.
So what you’re saying is the burst pressure is a long long way off from 4500psiHydro testing is not destructive testing. Destructive would be pressurizing the cyl until it failed. Understanding fatigue and resiliance is a complicated science.
The short answer is that even hydro testing doest come close to the permanent damage pressure. It does contribute to cycles (fill/empty) but no more so than regular use. Ever notice the REE spec on cylinders. As long as it doesn't expand past that spec, usually measured in cc of water expansion, then all is well. 4500 cf cyls are usually hydro d at 7500, which is still less than half their burst.
You are probably correct, but at 4500psi, the words "Should be" rate right up there with "Should have".The epoxy resin in the CF tank should be fine for any type of paint you can buy including automotive. What I am not sure about would be the clear coat over the tank. Epoxy paints are not UV resistant thus they typically use a clear urethane or lacquer to protect from UV radiation. They may not do this on airgun tanks thinking they won't be in the sun long. Anyway I would use a polyurethane paint along with a catalyzed clear. Though in reality any rattle can paint would work just not as durable.