Panthera 700 advice

[Macmc]

Hey, gentlemen. Need some tips on setting up an FX Panthera I recently acquired. I shoot NRL22, 22x, PRS rimfire, etc. Currently run a full custom Vudoo 360, G3, ACC elite, all the bits. Would like to get this setup to use at matches. Had a guy in my squad at the TN night match before Christmas running a Panthera and seems like a capable platform once it’s dialed.

I have some other air guns I use in the backyard. Mostly Benjamin’s and one Brocock Commander XR mag in .25. All great guns, but nothing suited for competition.

My first issue is seeing if there is any way to shorten the LOP. It is currently 14.5 and my other comp guns are all 12.5. I’m 6’0 but find the short LOP works best for me. Is there a custom shop that can do this?

Second, I need to get my scope at least another 1” forward but the front dove/pic rail section is too short. Is there a longer one available? Have a Bushnell XRS3 6-36 on it now with high rings.

Next is upgrading internals. I have some other air guns I use in the backyard. Mostly Benjamin’s and one Brocock Commander XR mag in .25. All great guns, but nothing suited for competition. I have seen the tuning options from HUMA and was looking specifically at their first phase tank reg, primary g3 reg (high psi) hammer spring kit, probe, etc.

Would also like to get advice on the 300bar tank, a good scba tank for matches/home, and anything else.

Currently have a Bushnell XRS3 on it w high rings. It also came with several diff slugs, saber tactical rail, brass weights, saber grip, and the new block.


Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!

Attached a pic just for reference; bipod on it now is a place holder. Will put on a cyke pod or atlas.

 

[air-hunter_canyon]

8mm hammer
300cc 300bar bottle
Altaros 5.52mm 40 grain king slugs
Grayops external full weight kit
Muzzle break
I have the k&l ultra rail not the saber tactical but players choice.

 

[Smok3y]

Hey, gentlemen. Need some tips on setting up an FX Panthera I recently acquired. I shoot NRL22, 22x, PRS rimfire, etc. Currently run a full custom Vudoo 360, G3, ACC elite, all the bits. Would like to get this setup to use at matches. Had a guy in my squad at the TN night match before Christmas running a Panthera and seems like a capable platform once it’s dialed.

I have some other air guns I use in the backyard. Mostly Benjamin’s and one Brocock Commander XR mag in .25. All great guns, but nothing suited for competition.

My first issue is seeing if there is any way to shorten the LOP. It is currently 14.5 and my other comp guns are all 12.5. I’m 6’0 but find the short LOP works best for me. Is there a custom shop that can do this?

Second, I need to get my scope at least another 1” forward but the front dove/pic rail section is too short. Is there a longer one available? Have a Bushnell XRS3 6-36 on it now with high rings.

Next is upgrading internals. I have some other air guns I use in the backyard. Mostly Benjamin’s and one Brocock Commander XR mag in .25. All great guns, but nothing suited for competition. I have seen the tuning options from HUMA and was looking specifically at their first phase tank reg, primary g3 reg (high psi) hammer spring kit, probe, etc.

Would also like to get advice on the 300bar tank, a good scba tank for matches/home, and anything else.

Currently have a Bushnell XRS3 on it w high rings. It also came with several diff slugs, saber tactical rail, brass weights, saber grip, and the new block.


Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!

Attached a pic just for reference; bipod on it now is a place holder. Will put on a cyke pod or atlas.

View attachment 530875

My first thought on reducing length of pull would be to convert to the Dynamic rear end. That could net you more air as well. Not sure how else you could reduce it aside from a new chassis. The Saber Tactical chassis for the King/Panthera/Dynamic looks to have a shorter pull, but you will sacrifice fore end depth because the bottle will have to be moved to the front.

As for the scope rail, I think they are built into the block, right? That is all you get unless you buy pic rail extensions.

We have a couple guys here with several long equipment posts that shoot the Panthera/Dynamic that can be a lot of help for you. Check out those threads in this section.

 

[Peashooter]

If you shorten LOP will that not make the bottle come forward

 

[Macmc]

Appreciate all of the comments. Assumed I’d have to go the way of pic rail extensions but saw the originals are held on via screw. May just have to order some generic ones and machine them to fit.


Gun came with a few thousand 34, 36, and 40 gr altaros so I’ll get those dialed in once the tune is done. The o rings at the buttstock were both leaking so fixed those and saw where it would be relatively easy to cut down the stock. It would bring the bottle closer, but I don’t wrap my hand around the grip so it’s no biggie.


Had a hard time sorting through threads as most go of course quickly.

 

[zer0dev]

Hey, gentlemen. Need some tips on setting up an FX Panthera I recently acquired. I shoot NRL22, 22x, PRS rimfire, etc. Currently run a full custom Vudoo 360, G3, ACC elite, all the bits. Would like to get this setup to use at matches. Had a guy in my squad at the TN night match before Christmas running a Panthera and seems like a capable platform once it’s dialed.

I have some other air guns I use in the backyard. Mostly Benjamin’s and one Brocock Commander XR mag in .25. All great guns, but nothing suited for competition.

My first issue is seeing if there is any way to shorten the LOP. It is currently 14.5 and my other comp guns are all 12.5. I’m 6’0 but find the short LOP works best for me. Is there a custom shop that can do this?

Second, I need to get my scope at least another 1” forward but the front dove/pic rail section is too short. Is there a longer one available? Have a Bushnell XRS3 6-36 on it now with high rings.

Next is upgrading internals. I have some other air guns I use in the backyard. Mostly Benjamin’s and one Brocock Commander XR mag in .25. All great guns, but nothing suited for competition. I have seen the tuning options from HUMA and was looking specifically at their first phase tank reg, primary g3 reg (high psi) hammer spring kit, probe, etc.

Would also like to get advice on the 300bar tank, a good scba tank for matches/home, and anything else.

Currently have a Bushnell XRS3 on it w high rings. It also came with several diff slugs, saber tactical rail, brass weights, saber grip, and the new block.


Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!

Attached a pic just for reference; bipod on it now is a place holder. Will put on a cyke pod or atlas.

View attachment 530875

Hi and welcome! I'll start with some short advice for each of your questions, since I have been through all of them on my competition gun.

LOP:
Nope. The Panthera back end squishes you with the bottle behind the grip. Also to answer your Huma 1st stage reg question, IMO it is not practical with the Panthera back end either. You have slightly more freedom with the Dynamic back end, but also with a bunch of caveats:

• There is no conversion kit, you will have to buy the parts individually.
• Bigger bottle equals longer LOP
• 1st stage reg equals... longer LOP
• No commercially available bag rider

I have the same issue in that I'd love to shorten it by at least an inch, but I can't find a way. I removed the Dynamic rubber butt stock and taped a piece of foam in the hole, which got me a 1/2" back ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I wouldn't go more than a 3rd party 360 cc tank if you convert to the Dynamic, as a 480 cc is pretty long.

Scope:
You can't replace the rail on the block. And the magazine inlet prevents you from using a one-piece or cantilever mount, or mounting another pic riser on top to extend it. We're pretty SOL on this one. Hell, I had to HAND FILE my own pic slot on the front section so I could use an Area419 two-piece mount, because it needs 3 slots.

Internals:
Biggest ones are an 8 mm hammer and a pin probe. Transfer port upgrade is not worth the effort. I have not tried a heavier spring. But I suppose it would give you some tuning options as it would relate to dwell time. But if you're going to try and run 40 gr slugs and higher pressure you'll want the heavier hammer and pin probe.

I have the 1st stage Huma reg. I got it because I was having some reg creep issues if I filled to 275+. I would say it helped and I have not had any refresh issues with the stepped down pressure (I run it around 210-220). However the part is ... kinda poorly made. The outer body is soft aluminum, and the adapter that threads into the block is threaded all the way to the end. However the hole in the Dynamic's block adapter REQUIRES some thread relief, it is not threaded deeply enough. So I had to once again HAND FILE off maybe 1.5 mm of threads so that it would seat properly and not leak. I lost hair over this one.

SCBA tank:
No real advice. Get whatever size you feel comfortable lugging around. I think all brands will serve your needs, but AirVenturi or AirMarksman or Omega if you don't want a random Chinese brand. But make sure have a plan to fill it, whether that's a paintball shop or a big home compressor. Don't skimp there. High humidity air in that tank will cause you headaches, esp in the cold.

Best of luck with the build!

 

[zer0dev]

Appreciate all of the comments. Assumed I’d have to go the way of pic rail extensions but saw the originals are held on via screw. May just have to order some generic ones and machine them to fit.


Gun came with a few thousand 34, 36, and 40 gr altaros so I’ll get those dialed in once the tune is done. The o rings at the buttstock were both leaking so fixed those and saw where it would be relatively easy to cut down the stock. It would bring the bottle closer, but I don’t wrap my hand around the grip so it’s no biggie.


Had a hard time sorting through threads as most go of course quickly.

I'm curious where you think you can cut down the stock, since the air runs through it.

Also the pic rail on the block is integral, non-removable. The hole near the back is to adjust the ball detent for the charging handle retention feature.

 

[Impact701]

To shorten the length of pull, you could move the bottle forward and install the FX folding stock adapter so you can install a shorter AR buttstock

You already have the Saber Tactical rail to move the bottle forward.

You would need the folding buttstock adapter, buffer tube and buttstock of your liking.

 

[Macmc]

@zer0dev appreciate the thoughtful and insightful response. Will certainly look into the hammer,probe, and a couple tanks. Think one for matches and a large one for home which I’ll fill at the local dive shop.

When fixing a leak I had a chance to look at the rear stock. I have experience in machining so wouldn’t be too hard to cut it down if need be. The 4 threads and air line are all in line. Therefore I’d just have to retap the 4 threads.

Was a bit surprised to see the choke point where the stock meets the action. The hole on the action side is at least 50% smaller and an oval shape with an o ring fitted into an oval.

@Impact701 I’d considered moving the tank to the front, but this would raise the center of gravity/overall height significantly. I am trying to keep the fit, feel , and balance points between my PRS guns as close as is possible. Seems like the keeping the tank at the rear is the best option.
It seems that the DRS might be the better option, but I don’t know enough about it or airgunning in general to say.

 

[Impact701]

@zer0dev appreciate the thoughtful and insightful response. Will certainly look into the hammer,probe, and a couple tanks. Think one for matches and a large one for home which I’ll fill at the local dive shop.

When fixing a leak I had a chance to look at the rear stock. I have experience in machining so wouldn’t be too hard to cut it down if need be. The 4 threads and air line are all in line. Therefore I’d just have to retap the 4 threads.

Was a bit surprised to see the choke point where the stock meets the action. The hole on the action side is at least 50% smaller and an oval shape with an o ring fitted into an oval.

@Impact701 I’d considered moving the tank to the front, but this would raise the center of gravity/overall height significantly. I am trying to keep the fit, feel , and balance points between my PRS guns as close as is possible. Seems like the keeping the tank at the rear is the best option.
It seems that the DRS might be the better option, but I don’t know enough about it or airgunning in general to say.

I have a DRS Pro 25 700, it won't be as powerful as the Panthera, but the chassis makes the rifle worth it !

I'm not a competitive shooter but it is a perfect rifle for pdogg'n

 

[steve123]

I have a DRS Pro 25 700, it won't be as powerful as the Panthera, but the chassis makes the rifle worth it !
View attachment 531135
I'm not a competitive shooter but it is a perfect rifle for pdogg'n

I can't tell exactly but are those LOP spacer shims on your gun?! If so you must be very tall.

 

[Impact701]

I can't tell exactly but are those LOP spacer shims on your gun?! If so you must be very tall.

Yes, 8 spacers to give me 14½ LOP.
I had to buy a spacer kit, 4 spacers = 1 inch.

 

[Advance]

I had the same issue as you when it came to not being able to get my scope far enough away from my eye on the Panthera platform. The solution I settled on was a pair of offset rings that might be hard to find atm since they were recently discontinue. The rings are the UTG accusync model air422s (34mm). The front ring will have to have the front most lug machined off of it to fit the picatinny section forward of the magazine. This shouldn’t be hard for you since you indicated that you have the needed skill set. I lapped the pair I installed and they haven’t given me any problems.