Parallax Wheels - pictures of "the spread"
- Thread starter cavedweller
- Start date
I'll try to post a picture of the (almost finished) wheel later today.
I'll be using it on the MAC 1 at the Sonoran Desert Grand Prix in Phoenix this coming weekend.
One of my buddies talked me into going up there to get my butt kicked by a whole new bunch of folks........
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@cavedweller,
Well, so far I'm really liking this scope.
The "focusing in" process is a little different than the other scopes I have but I'm getting used to it. Falcon says to pick one direction for focus - near to far or far to near and then stick with it for consistent results.
I've been kind of used to my process of something like.............. near to far, go past far point where it looks like it's in focus, , come back to in focus, stop there. If all of that makes sense to anyone.
It does not work well for me doing that on the Falcon. I go from near to far and as it's coming into focus I slowly creep a little farther, a little farther, and then when everything is sharply focused - stop there. And then it's VERY repeatable if you do it that way every time. If I happen to go too far I just come back several yards "nearer" and start over.
It does not pop into focus as quickly as the X50 and it even says so in the directions. "It takes some getting used to." Or at least it has for me.
Here's pictures of the wheel as I have it marked up right now (for MY eyes). If you don't see a mark for a certain yardage it's because I haven't gotten to it yet or I have tried it and was unsure so I'll come back to it another day and try again. Hope this helps out somehow.
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I'm guessing that the ranging marks on the wheel I've done are fairly close to being accurate.
Here's some targets I shot at 35, 40, 45, 50 & 55 yards last Friday at the range to double-check the marks and get some practice in.
Light breeze, variable directions, around 3-6 mph.
Here's some targets I shot at 35, 40, 45, 50 & 55 yards last Friday at the range to double-check the marks and get some practice in.
Light breeze, variable directions, around 3-6 mph.
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Keep us posted 3 /2/24 I hope the wind kicks their buttocks and not yoursI'll try to post a picture of the (almost finished) wheel later today.
I'll be using it on the MAC 1 at the Sonoran Desert Grand Prix in Phoenix this coming weekend.
One of my buddies talked me into going up there to get my butt kicked by a whole new bunch of folks........
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As someone relatively new to air guns and field target and not knowing a lot of sources of accessories I have had to do a lot searching for different things and questioned a lot of concepts.
I shoot field target in Ohio so there is a shoot every weekend and a lot of good shooters and people. There are a lot of good scopes but there are few good field target scopes that I know of and that's because few of the scope manufacturers cater to the limited Field Target market where we live and die by ranging, especially in hunter class. The perfect scope needs only range from 10 to 55 yards and of course have good glass and a good reticle. Ranging has everything to do with how many degrees of rotation there is in the 10-55 yard range with the parallax adjustment. Circular wheels spread those degrees out evenly in a linear fashion while elliptical wheels can spread the degrees out wider. But the wheel isn't so much the problem as the scope manufacturer designing the wheel to spread out the degrees, 10-55, over a larger radius.
I have never seen a scope specification that says parallax 10-55 yards over 270 degrees. Please post if you know of one. My first scope was a Hawke Sidewinder on an Air Arms S510 that uses a magazine that loads from the left (scope parallax) side. It came with a 4" wheel and I had to cut out 90 degrees of the wheel to load a magazine.
I also got into 3d printing around the same time and said to myself this should be easy to print a wheel. I started to look at other guns and other scopes and came up with a crazy mosaic of wheels and hubs for different combos.
I bought a wheel that had set screws to attach to the adjustment knob and thought to myself why not design a wheel that fit snuggly on the hub so I did. A couple of shooters saw what I did and asked if I would make them one. Then I realized that every parallax wheel has different requirements.
First lets go back to the degree of rotation between 10 and 55 yards. My Hawke Sidewinder has about 120 degrees while my Sightron has about 230 degrees. Sure would be a nice spec to know. But that has little to actually do with wheel design other than bigger wheels, longer circumference, more distance between yardage marks that get closer the farther the target.
So I have started to make wheels for different scopes with the idea that like my original wheels I can match the grooves on the parallax hub. Just slip the wheel on and if it is snug and there is no play you are all set. The few wheels I have made so far do fit very snug but I do use a slit in the hub and a small bolt to tension it as we are taking about 10s of a millimeter of tolerance.
This all may sound great but do you have any idea the differences in parallax adjustment areas. In just a few wheels I have made I have found 12,15,16,18 and 24 indents on the nobs. There are different diameters of the knobs themselves. Some scopes have illumination dials built in. Others have them on the body of the scope and limit the size of the wheel. My newest request has the adjustment knob very narrow and next to the scope body with illumination and battery cover out at the end.
There are also limits to 3d printing that you have to print building up from a flat surface. I also include marks every 10 degrees on the wheel and on my own wheels I have printed the ranging distances on the wheel instead of a flat surface for tape.
Back to my Air Arms and Hawke combination, I now have a 7" wheel with only one spoke in the way so I can remove the magazine with minimum cycling of the wheel.
Final thought, very few scopes are designed around field target. I'm glad I'm retired and can do this for fun.
I shoot field target in Ohio so there is a shoot every weekend and a lot of good shooters and people. There are a lot of good scopes but there are few good field target scopes that I know of and that's because few of the scope manufacturers cater to the limited Field Target market where we live and die by ranging, especially in hunter class. The perfect scope needs only range from 10 to 55 yards and of course have good glass and a good reticle. Ranging has everything to do with how many degrees of rotation there is in the 10-55 yard range with the parallax adjustment. Circular wheels spread those degrees out evenly in a linear fashion while elliptical wheels can spread the degrees out wider. But the wheel isn't so much the problem as the scope manufacturer designing the wheel to spread out the degrees, 10-55, over a larger radius.
I have never seen a scope specification that says parallax 10-55 yards over 270 degrees. Please post if you know of one. My first scope was a Hawke Sidewinder on an Air Arms S510 that uses a magazine that loads from the left (scope parallax) side. It came with a 4" wheel and I had to cut out 90 degrees of the wheel to load a magazine.
I also got into 3d printing around the same time and said to myself this should be easy to print a wheel. I started to look at other guns and other scopes and came up with a crazy mosaic of wheels and hubs for different combos.
I bought a wheel that had set screws to attach to the adjustment knob and thought to myself why not design a wheel that fit snuggly on the hub so I did. A couple of shooters saw what I did and asked if I would make them one. Then I realized that every parallax wheel has different requirements.
First lets go back to the degree of rotation between 10 and 55 yards. My Hawke Sidewinder has about 120 degrees while my Sightron has about 230 degrees. Sure would be a nice spec to know. But that has little to actually do with wheel design other than bigger wheels, longer circumference, more distance between yardage marks that get closer the farther the target.
So I have started to make wheels for different scopes with the idea that like my original wheels I can match the grooves on the parallax hub. Just slip the wheel on and if it is snug and there is no play you are all set. The few wheels I have made so far do fit very snug but I do use a slit in the hub and a small bolt to tension it as we are taking about 10s of a millimeter of tolerance.
This all may sound great but do you have any idea the differences in parallax adjustment areas. In just a few wheels I have made I have found 12,15,16,18 and 24 indents on the nobs. There are different diameters of the knobs themselves. Some scopes have illumination dials built in. Others have them on the body of the scope and limit the size of the wheel. My newest request has the adjustment knob very narrow and next to the scope body with illumination and battery cover out at the end.
There are also limits to 3d printing that you have to print building up from a flat surface. I also include marks every 10 degrees on the wheel and on my own wheels I have printed the ranging distances on the wheel instead of a flat surface for tape.
Back to my Air Arms and Hawke combination, I now have a 7" wheel with only one spoke in the way so I can remove the magazine with minimum cycling of the wheel.
Final thought, very few scopes are designed around field target. I'm glad I'm retired and can do this for fun.
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I have prescription safety glasses , no swapping back and forth.Worse... I hate to wear glasses during day, putting them on in front of PC, or when I have something in my hands and not recognizing what it is exactly
During range time it is very awkward, remove the safety glasses put on reading glasses only to see what a heck Im doin, remove the reading and putting back safety on, and I can go for a shot.
This is why I don;t have handguns but shot a rifle with a scope only, tuning it w/o glasses and ranging w/o glasses.
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Great post but theres more!
Some wheels increase distance focus points with clockwise rotation of the parallax knob while others increase distance focus points via counter clockwise rotation of the parallax knob - whew!
Then you have to accommodate illumination knobs.
Then there is the means to create a visual and repeatable point or position indicator.
Then there is the sightron S-Tac line up.
These pics show an eccentric magnetic wheel which is removable for travel purposes.
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I'm working on a S-Tac wheel for a friend who just bought one. I don't know if he can work the illumination spacing with his fingers so the knob looks like a great alternative. We have some dark woods courses in Ohio that illuminated reticles help with. I don't think there is a case made that you could keep the wheel on for storage.
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I’m uncertain about this as the occular rings job is only to properly focus the reticle for the specific user? Frankly I’m not sure
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so if i read this right , you have different scope wheels for different temperature days ? or maybe hours ?
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