Pcp compressor exploded

My very first thought was well.. what's next?

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The honorable mention goes to Tuxing single piston compressor. The 2nd one..

Sum of my story:
Cheap handpump lasts 2months-imploded
1st tuxing lasts 1year 2months-lost compression
2nd tuxing lasts 6months-exploded
Double cylinder tuxing lasts 2months-spits oil at breather

Set-up:
Admission filter- dissecant
Compressed air filter-foam+triple tuxing filter
Additional one way valve before triple filter
6.9L 300bar bottle


Quick advice- don't ever let your body parts near working under pressure parts. Could have ended with some red stain. Just have an extension cord and unplug from far away for a better fear factor.
I always observe the filling procedure and i heard the noise of the motor starting to go down so instictly pressed the off switch as fast as possible. If i happened to put my arm over the piston some cuts and bruises were in order.

So after buying the double cylinder one and it started building pressure on the crankcase and spitting oil from the breather. I knew that either i had to learn how to fix these or buy a 1000+ eur compressor. I am a poor guy so didn't even had to think about an excuse to give the wife. Learn something new it is.

Started by cleaning and replacing the 1st single piston one's every seal. = Still no high pressure

Swaped one way valves from the 2nd (exploded one) to the 1st. = Still no pressure

While changing parts i noticed that newly replaced high pressure segments were leaking.
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The temporary solution was this.
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Inserted by hand the drag seemed fine. Still going strong for 1month to top up until i machine a new high pressure piston to replace the very gappy old one.

So, full of confidence i went to disassemble the double piston compressor and here is what i found wrong:
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Replaced those 2 screws with anti corrosion coated new ones. Replaced HP segments and overall cleaning. Happy ever after.

Now here is when i ask for opinions for why do you think the 2nd compressor exploded.
My thoughs are it was caused by a VERY stuck high pressure one way valve that was full of carbon (black) particles just like in the double cylinder. The oil i use is has the manual asks (iso100). The truth is that in every of the three these particles were present.

What i intend to do once the oil gets dark is to replace it with another one.
I live in Portugal and that purple royal is not available locally but if any alternative is suggested i will look into it thanks in advance.

And by the way i controlled temperatures of the water and at the time of explosion it was a cool summer night.

Why they last such a few time? Well i guess i shoot a lot.. and experiment a lot.. in fact so much i managed to damage one of my rifle's bottle screw and had to make a stainless insert
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but nevertheless i only top the bottles since i got the double cylinder for 5min runs.

If you're a broke like me, don't give up on these compressors but definitely treat them like the enemy. CLEAN those valves has frequently has you feel comfortable and never get your head close to them! Signs of spitting oil at the breather are a immediate STOP sign.

Cheers
Happy shooting
 
I agree with worriedmans suggestions but I use Nuvair 751 oil. I don't know if they ship to Portugal but I get it shipped to my house. Your pistons seem to show signs of detonation which can happen with cheaper oils with a lower flash point. Detonation would damage the second stage piston like your pictures show. I would invest in some better oil.

Using dessicant on the intake restricts it and may also be a contributor. I would let it breathe.
 
So glad you weren't injured! Sorry for your bad track record with the compressors too. I, like you, am not a person with a lot of disposable income. So glad my Yong Heng gave me 3.5 years of service before dying (but I did get a full refund due to buying a 4 yr warranty). I now have a modified dual cylinder Tuxing that's been working great. Best of luck with your project!
 
Glad you were not hurt. My thinking is this, if you have to buy parts when you buy a new compressor, you’ve crapped out before you’ve rolled the dice. Buy something quality and proven from the beginning to avoid these sorts of mishaps. Hold off on buying a gun or two and purchase a quality HPA compressor with along with a SCBA tank, a quality hose and fittings. Then enjoy air independence and peace of mind. Don’t be the guy looking at his medical bills thinking that he could’ve spent that money on a nice compressor.
 
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Ignoto,
Sorry for your misfortune, hope things improve. Suggestion #1- Consider another brand of compressor. Suggestion #2- Factory breather only at air induction site. Suggestion #3- SecoLube 500 crankcase oil, or equivalent, with, at least, 520-degree F flash point. WM
Thanks
#1 considered alteady but like i mentioned i suspect it was the oil that was building up carbon deposits in all three of them so i am willing to try a new brand/type because they all worked fine for a time although they don't have an internal safety relieve besides the HP valve due to the simplicity they are build. Worst case will put an acrylic wall beneath me and and the sucker untill he dies. My main confusion is i don't even know what type of oil properties to look for.. Is hydraulic oil ok to use on those? I just played safe by what the manufacturer asked but chinese translations are just not great.. 😃

#2 will try from now on not to use any intake filter but could you please elaborate more? What is the reason? Perfomance only?

#3 i will look for the oil suggestions there just remains one other question? How frequently do you change oil?
 
Thanks
#1 considered alteady but like i mentioned i suspect it was the oil that was building up carbon deposits in all three of them so i am willing to try a new brand/type because they all worked fine for a time although they don't have an internal safety relieve besides the HP valve due to the simplicity they are build. Worst case will put an acrylic wall beneath me and and the sucker untill he dies. My main confusion is i don't even know what type of oil properties to look for.. Is hydraulic oil ok to use on those? I just played safe by what the manufacturer asked but chinese translations are just not great.. 😃

#2 will try from now on not to use any intake filter but could you please elaborate more? What is the reason? Perfomance only?

#3 i will look for the oil suggestions there just remains one other question? How frequently do you change oil?
Pre-filters are generally non-productive for removing moisture, post-filter treatment preferred. Worse than non-productivity, pre-filters can restrict airflow, a highly undesirable situation, as in breathing thru a gas mask, while hard at work, would be to us. Flash point of pictured oil, 590-degree F, seems sufficient, clearly not. SecoLube 500 is a Type 500 Diester Synthetic Compressor Lubricant, perhaps something similar would perform better. After initial one-hour break-in oil change, annual changes are sufficient, in my case. My nearly three-year old Yong Heng, over 30 hours runtime, still going strong. WM
 
Pre-filters are generally non-productive for removing moisture, post-filter treatment preferred. Worse than non-productivity, pre-filters can restrict airflow, a highly undesirable situation, as in breathing thru a gas mask, while hard at work, would be to us. Flash point of pictured oil, 590-degree F, seems sufficient, clearly not. SecoLube 500 is a Type 500 Diester Synthetic Compressor Lubricant, perhaps something similar would perform better. After initial one-hour break-in oil change, annual changes are sufficient, in my case. My nearly three-year old Yong Heng, over 30 hours runtime, still going strong. WM
YEAH what he said. SECO. My Tuxing 032 is working fine but I've hardly got any hours on it, 12 in a year or so, obviously I don't shoot a lot or my guns are very WELL tuned.
 
Not assuming anything, did you over fill your crankcase oil?
I check the levels every single time i use it. I wish it would be that simple 😄

I have been reading about reciprocating compressor oil and by what i have learned the main characteristics is it must be detergent free, able to withstand a high flashpoint temp but just not sure what viscosity should i could try. I guess i will just try something like others have tried and tested.. if someone wants to add up what kind of other properties these oils are meant to have i would be grateful.
 
Hi guy,i v work on a lot of them.It seems like after ya patched them up after 3 times they just dont want to respond anymore?Listen i got to working on them so much i started wearing a face shield. I had some blow and i couldn't find the part "Here is a pic of the shield.O have your old lady get a insurance policy on you while your at it"

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Thanks
#1 considered alteady but like i mentioned i suspect it was the oil that was building up carbon deposits in all three of them so i am willing to try a new brand/type because they all worked fine for a time although they don't have an internal safety relieve besides the HP valve due to the simplicity they are build. Worst case will put an acrylic wall beneath me and and the sucker untill he dies. My main confusion is i don't even know what type of oil properties to look for.. Is hydraulic oil ok to use on those? I just played safe by what the manufacturer asked but chinese translations are just not great.. 😃

#2 will try from now on not to use any intake filter but could you please elaborate more? What is the reason? Perfomance only?

#3 i will look for the oil suggestions there just remains one other question? How frequently do you change oil?
I started with Royal Purple in my Tuxing 032, got it out FAST, the garbage smoked out of the breather, my wild guess it wasn't a good thing. Went with SECO 500, it's not cheap but ....cheaper than a new compressor, no smoke, no smell, just running. Of course I've only got a touch over 10 hours on it but the thing still sounds good/smooth, been 15 months. Which reminds me, it's time for a oil change.