Opening the bleed valve 0.5 seconds every 5 minutes, correct?You should be fine with what you have, just bleed the moisture off as it fills. 0.8 liters is not large enough to develop a lot of moisture in the time it takes to fill.
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Opening the bleed valve 0.5 seconds every 5 minutes, correct?You should be fine with what you have, just bleed the moisture off as it fills. 0.8 liters is not large enough to develop a lot of moisture in the time it takes to fill.
YES!!! even 1/4 sec is ok. just enough to spray a bit of water. Do not try to open it all the way at 1000PSI it will come out fast.Opening the bleed valve 0.5 seconds every 5 minutes, correct?
To your first question, "A":Sorry, after reading this thread I am more confused....
🅐
WHAT filter medium should be used for airgunning?
➊ silical gel beads
➋ desiccant
➌ molecular sieve
➍ activated charcoal
🅑
If I only fill up my gun's 0.5L bottle from 120 to 250bar, do I really need to fill such a huge filter every time?
The volume of the filter seems to rival my airbottle....
Thanks for any pointers,
Matthias
To your first question, "A":
Both Silica Gel Beads and Molecular Sieve are desiccants - meaning they adsorb water vapor directly out of the air stream. Not in your list is zeolite that could also be used. Activated charcoal will not dry the air stream at all - it is used to absorb VOCs (volatile organic compounds) like oil and gas vapors for breathing quality air. We air gunners do not need to use activated charcoal in our filters.
As for which desiccants to use, they all have advantages and disadvantages. Make the choice that works best for you:
Silica Gel - cheap and easily rechargable via heating in pretty much any oven, and readily available in an "indicating" bead that lets you know when it needs to be recharged. But does not "dry" as deeply as Molecular Sieve - that said, I used it on its own for years (in a large enough amount) and had no issues with it (I since added a small Molecular Sieve filter after mine just in case). It will dry to an ambient pressure dew point of -45 degrees F.
Molecular Sieve - the best for drying, but is more expensive, hard to come by with indicating beads, and is basically not rechargable without a high temperature kiln (no home oven can get hot enough).
Zeolite - a lot like Silica Gel, and a good choice if you have easy access to it.
To question "B" I'd say it all gets down to how hot the air charge gets leaving your compressor. That said, I would want to use one, but I would go for something a bit smaller for your use - one of the medium sized filters could work. Most of those only come with cotton filters, but you could make your own desiccants insert for it using a bit of old "transparency" film and short filter caps to keep it separate from the metal housing to avoid corrosion.
How is moisture bleed off accomplished? Prior to the gold tube? Is there a moisture bleed screw on the compressor?You should be fine with what you have, just bleed the moisture off as it fills. 0.8 liters is not large enough to develop a lot of moisture in the time it takes to fill.
Yes, there should be a bleeder right near the output hose. open and quickly close that bleeder while filling and you will see water expelled from the compressor.How is moisture bleed off accomplished? Prior to the gold tube? Is there a moisture bleed screw on the compressor?
Read #35 & 36 to get an understanding of why pre filtering is not efficient and not worth the effort.OK... noob here. Be gentle In reading above, it indicates to not quickly relieve pressure from the filter below 2000psi in order to keep the media from rapidly expanding. However, I also recall seeing that one should open the relief valve on the compressor prior to starting or stopping the pump.
Do the filter containers incorporate a check valve or operable inline valves to maintain pressure in the filter?
Also...What about putting a larger volume of desiccant media on the intake of the pump, rather than the output? This would not help oil emissions, but would get the air dry prior to compression.
When I got my PCP compressor and was looking at filters that use desiccant I contacted Dry & Dry a supplier of silica gel beads asking bout using them in an air line that could have up to 4500 psi, here's the response I got.Sorry, after reading this thread I am more confused....
🅐
WHAT filter medium should be used for airgunning?
➊ silical gel beads
➋ desiccant
➌ molecular sieve
➍ activated charcoal
🅑
If I only fill up my gun's 0.5L bottle from 120 to 250bar, do I really need to fill such a huge filter every time?
The volume of the filter seems to rival my airbottle....
Thanks for any pointers,
Matthias