PCP Moderators - larger internal volume vs felt/sound deadening material

I have a DonnyFL Emperor on my 357 W.A.R Flex. The Emperor comes with felt wrapped on 2 of the 3 internal core components. Is it really better to have the felt? Doesn't the felt pieces take up precious internal volume on the moderator, which is the key to how these moderators work?

My 25 cal FX Impact 700mm fixed moderator is just an empty cylinder and works just fine. Has anyone done any scientific testing? I tried both with and without felt and I just don't have the proper equipment to tell which way is better. I am sure too much felt wastes space/volume in the moderator and detracts from the moderator's effectiveness. Sounds like as little felt as possible might be the key - maximize volume? 
 
I have a silent kit that uses Mrod style baffles. I can jam 3 baffles and the spring in, just barely. Yesterday I took one baffle out and found d the spring holds enough tension to keep the guts from making a rattle. The more easily moved (against the spring) baffles are much quieter than the barely fit-jammed tight baffles. Sometimes less is more 🤔
 
I've made lots of silencers in my time. Adding felt, wire wool, fiberglass or any other absorbing material does not make a silencer more quiet. It will change the sound's signature, but not its loudness. Volume however, does, the more the merrier!

+2 But leave the felt wrap over the screen. Some people use as thick foam as possible inside donnyfl ldc's and get a sound change. You have his biggest one he makes installed but I think he came out with a V3 version. You can download a APP sound meter to see the difference any mods make.
 
I have a silent kit that uses Mrod style baffles. I can jam 3 baffles and the spring in, just barely. Yesterday I took one baffle out and found d the spring holds enough tension to keep the guts from making a rattle. The more easily moved (against the spring) baffles are much quieter than the barely fit-jammed tight baffles. Sometimes less is more 🤔

By taking out a baffle you are increasing the volume, so more is more

Also from the research that i have done, it seems as though 3 chambers with the first (closest to the muzzle) being the largest will result in the least amount of "noise" heard. Be it due to the tone or sounds signature, it "appears" to be the quietest.


 
There is always a proper balance between baffle count / spacing, and volume, but this is for bread crumbs not the pie. There really is no mad scientist way to severely reduce the sound report further than what a traditional LDC does though, 3-4 chambers like BigTinBoat suggested, with first chamber being largest, as well as last, IMO seem to perform the best. Look at DonnyFL's internals, very simple, not complex, no need, because it wouldn't make *much of* a difference. I wish there were some crazy 'tech' that improved sound reduction MUCH further, but from where I stand I see 5-10 db reduction being max (on 80~ db rifles), where as with powder burners you may see a 25-30 db reduction, but that is likely what a similarly powered pcp's reduction would be as well (big bore)...so with that said, when the day and age comes that some new tech emerges that reduces sound report further by say even 50%, I would be tinkled pink.



-Matt
 
In my simple mind, the baffle is only half the silent kit. The air first gets diverted back down the shroud on the Kral's barrel. With the baffles able to move back against the spring, the air chamber is expanded by the air flo, to allow a further drop the pressure front. Any way it works, the sound level is noticbly and remarkablely quieter with 2 vs. 3 baffles.
 
The largest impacting factor(s) in a moderator design are (in order of my personal opinion)



-Length (infinite length would reduce muzzle report to 0 if you shot into a closed loop, because no technical muzzle....even a 500 ft LDC would have zero muzzle report (for shooter), point is nothing beats this in theory) (would equal the noise you get from filling your pcp...so SOME report from 'air transfer' but lol...negligible..think of the mass of air transfered from your bottle to rifle...its nearly enough for 40-100 shots, yet infinitely quieter than each individual shot...40-100x the energy release yet much quieter...this is the infinite length theory...because the air is never released into atmospheric)



-Volume (infinite (contained) volume would perform equally to infinite length, zero muzzle report, provided the container has decent sound deadening properties per the application. If the entire equalization of air is done within said container than felt or similar sound deadening material may prove to be fruitful, but in reality the air exiting the muzzle is what makes the LOUDEST bang, so sound deadening does not help this...



-baffle design (designed to divert/slow air flow as to reduce the entire mass of air from the shot coming out all at once, which has limited efficiency ie: going from 2-4 is good, 4-8 may help, but 8-16 won't do much compared to the equal volume, hence at a certain point volume outweighs use of more baffles..)





So why does length matter so much in the equation of moderators you ask? That is because of the TIME factor, air travels very quickly, speed of sound for me is roughly 1125 FPS, meaning a 6" ldc has the air pass through its length in nearly a half a milisecond, where a 12" ldc would take one millisecond, doubling the time spent in the ldc, allowing further dissipation and volume displacement of air mass from the shot. Adding baffles causes air to strike the surfaces and become diverted, further slowing down the air exiting the muzzle, baffles also create some turbulence, and turbulence creates resistance (like a plane flying through turbulent air or cross wind getting knocked around, same would apply to air mass in flight). The more volume available between baffles allows greater dissipation and pressure equalization.



I hope the above helps explain the relationship between moderator length, volume, and baffle efficiency.
 
I totally agree with all of you guys! I'm really interested in this stuff and have done some basic testing to the best of my ability with the equipment I have on hand. I've also discussed this stuff in great detail with Neil Clague and to a lesser degree STO from this board. I just wanted to share a few things. Ackuric, sorry some of this stuff is the same as you just posted, apparently I was writing it when you posted. I agree with you as you can see.

I own a few silencers {6 total - 3-Clague, 2-DonnyFL(Shogun Sumo) and one made by STO} and have tried some testing with my boys. We've found that the end result really depends on the gun/silencer combo. My boys and I have screwed all of the silencers on all of our guns(Gauntlet .22, Crown .25, Bantam .22, Hatsan AT-44 .25 and Streamline .25) and they all sound different on different guns. Internal volume and/or baffles that reroute gasses or divided the silencer into separate chambers do the most to quiet the report. Baffling material has a small effect on the sound signature but we found it was negligible. I have a Neil Clague silencer(8") with nothing inside of it except a tiny bit attached to the inside walls and it quiets my Crown the most followed by the DonnyFL Shogun and Sumo which both have chambers and baffling material. My sons Bantam is quietest with a three chamber Clague design(8") again with almost no baffling material, followed by the Shogun and Sumo which both have baffles and material inside. The Streamline is best with the DonnyFL Shogun, Sumo or either Neil Clague design, they all sound about the same. The Gauntlet is most quiet with the Clague single chamber design but all of the silencers made it very quiet. The Hatsan also benefited best from the Clague single chamber design. It was loud to begin with.

Neil is my neighbor/friend and we have discussed this stuff in great depth. Neil is a believer in the benefit of internal volume but makes plenty of silencers with baffles and a little internal sound reducing material(Minimal amounts on the interior wall) depending on the gun it's being used with. He definitely knows what design works best with what gun. All of his silencers are made to order, so he's making it for your particular gun and caliber. He makes them out of aluminum, titanium, or carbon fiber. STO made me a silencer that is much shorter than any of the others, it's very light, looks superb and sounds phenomenal. It's made of carbon fiber and the internals are made with a 3D printer. It's not the quietest design but it definitely has the lowest pitch which is perceived as quieter. He told me that he didn't make it to be the quietest, he made it to be small, light and just get rid of the Crown's bark...he accomplished his goal. He could have easily added a 1"-2" expansion chamber at the front, it would have still been light, short and it also would have been the quietest on my Crown! When used on my Crown, if I extend my shroud just about 2", which still makes STO's design the shortest(gun's overall length) it is the quietest on my Crown also a very low pitch. That's a combination of the volume of my shroud and the crazy cool internal design of STO's silencer. It's design has all kinds of holes, tubes, and baffles that reroute gas for optimal sound deadening performance and pellet stabilization. Again, no baffling material just a design that redirects and slows the gasses. It's called the Tesla Gas Diode Moderator. Do a search on AGN, you'll find here. On a side note, STO's design is the only one made specifically to screw on the shroud of the Crown so we couldn't test it on the other guns, I think it would have worked very well.

Silencers are much more complicated than whether the design has baffles, internal baffling material or just internal volume. The internal volume and addition of chambers are the two best features for deadening the report of an air gun. We also know that caliber, air volume and velocity contribute to the report of an airgun. Another factor I hadn't thought of before talking to Neil is the composition of the material being used for the silencer itself. Titanium, aluminum, carbon fiber and all of the plastics and composites being made into silencers these days all have an affect on the pitch of the silencer. This is why Neil adds a thin layer of material around the inside, to deaden the high pitch ting sound of aluminum, not to absorb some of the report. One more thing to consider is that silencers designed for powder burners generally are not the best design for air guns. As many have already concluded, volume is more important for air guns. From our testing, we determined that internal volume and baffles to slow or redirect gasses are the two biggest factors in reducing the sound signature. One of the biggest surprises to my boys and I was when we screwed the Clague silencer with no baffles or baffling material on my Crown, it was the quietest by far. When we screwed it on my son's Bantam Hi Lite, it wasn't nearly as quiet. We screwed the Clague design with two internal baffles/3 chambers on My son's Bantam and it was the quietest... but much louder on my Crown. They are exactly the same size/internal volume and design other than that one has 2 baffles/3 chambers and the other has one large chamber. They sounded completely different on each of our guns! That one has us baffled! lol

My testing is not anywhere near perfectly scientific but all of the guns and silencers were tested the same way to get the best results possible. We used 3 simple dB meters on our phones, placed at 3 different spots, in front of, to the side of and behind the gun/silencer being tested. We also just listened because perceived sound can be more important than the dB in how we hear the report. Also, the silencers are all made for .25 caliber guns so you may get a tad better sound reducing performance if you use a .22 design with your .22. I've had pellet clipping issues with my .22's so I just decided to buy .25 silencers so I can interchange them all. The opening at the muzzle end of my various silencers range from 0.315"-0.330"

I wanted to share the results of our simple testing and the discussions I've had with Neil and STO. I don't want to sell Donny short here though, I just haven't had in depth discussions with him like I have Neil and STO. His designs are great, very quiet, look awesome and his customer service is absolutely top notch. When I was getting ready to buy a Sumo from him directly, I texted him at 8:30pm Pacific time, 11:30pm East Coast time and got an instant response, I bought a silencer, he gave be 10% off just to be cool and I had the silencer in just 3 days...he's in Fl. and I'm in Ca. He really is a good guy and makes a great product, you can't go wrong with a DonnyFL design! I know that the Huggett has a great following and I've heard Wiehrach silencers do a great job too. Recently AOA started selling Trident moderators which look really cool and have internals that look similar to many other silencers out there. One smart design feature of the Trident is that the internals are made to blow apart if used on a powder burner. That way, there is no possible hang up's with the law for having an illegal silencer. A smart design! I've heard they work great too. I just don't have any of these silencers to try. 

I'm not trying to sell anybody's products here and I'm not trying to give props to one over another. Neil, STO and Donny are all great guys and make great products I just wanted to share what I've learned from Neil and STO and also share the simple testing results we got with each of the silencers on each of our guns to help answer the question... I think the most important factors in reducing report are... #1 internal volume, #2 baffles/chambers, and to a lesser degree #3 baffling material, #4 material being used to make the silencer. 

Here are some of the silencers. I don't have pictures of them all.

Stoti

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I tried an Emperor V3 on my .30 Impact at 100fpe and it was louder than the Ronin with Uni filter foam. The Emperor had much more of a POP which I could only attribute to the large hole through the the Emperor. I don't remember the exact hole size but I think it was around .47" or .48" while the Ronin measures .37". I fired 3 pellets through the Emperor and sold it.
 
Good observation and point heavy-impact,

Yes the exit hole diameter (final) has a huge influence...the tighter the tolerance to bore the better...like blowing through different thickness straws, there is an increase to air flow even up stream in a system with a 'large' exit hole @ final exit. Like taking off your end cap entirely provided you can keep the internals inside during the shot, it would be quite loud. Although this is really marginal when compared to LDC vs NO LDC period. The more extreme the differences in final exit hole the greater the potential difference in noise from residual pressure. 



My final exit hole is .36" which is roughly 2.7mm or .11" over bore. This is because I have a retractable ldc and worry about clipping so I have it slightly enlarged, where as my baffles run .32"~ or 1.7~ mm over bore. Not a huge difference between the two, .32" and 36" so even tightening my end cap up wouldn't do much, but I am sure enlarging it further would start to have much worse effects.



I'd consider a +1mm diameter a very tight tolerance for bore to exit diameter, 2mm nominal, and 4mm + approaching too big. JMO!



Also my .36" exit allows for a .25" pellet to have .055" clearance all around provided its exiting perfectly central, which for my case its definitely not but very close, where as a 1.5mm for instance would only have .029" clearance,. Very tight tolerances for 'nominal' to avoid baffle / end cap strikes. 
 
That 'Tesla diode' is 5" if I am reading the tape measure correctly, which isn't that short, pretty standard size for a LDC..the one I run is 3.75" retracted and around 6" extended...HUGE difference of sound signature AND decibel between the two lengths, night and day. When retracted my LDC @ 3.75" has a sound level half way between a properly moderated air rifle and one without any moderator. I'd love for a decibel reading from a phone comparing the Tesla to a comparable 5-6" LDC :)
 
3.75" LDC. Reduces signature 2.5-3 DB compared to no ldc. Internals = 6 conical baffles welded in to keep maximum volume between baffle = tube OD. Greatly changes signature

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*I tested multiple variations of baffle spacing / quantity at this 3.75" length and for me 6 spaced slightly less than the stock marauder seemed to work best*



Extended = 6.5" reduces signature roughly 5-6 DB total (+2.5-3 from retracted), no internal baffle added only volume in front of existing baffles. Further reduces sound signature.

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This stuff is so cool, I love hearing what you guys have to say. Something I've often wondered about but never had the chance to compare or mess with are the tiny holes that some manufacturers use to let gasses escape from the shroud or silencer. I've heard some people say, absolutely don't do it and others who say it works. My thinking is that if they were tiny holes toward the rear of the shroud that it should work to relieve pressure without making much noise at all. What do you guys think, any experience with the holes? What about Huggett silencers, don't they use openings of some sort under the steel mesh on their silencers or is that just for looks? 

Stoti
 
This stuff is so cool, I love hearing what you guys have to say. Something I've often wondered about but never had the chance to compare or mess with are the tiny holes that some manufacturers use to let gasses escape from the shroud or silencer. I've heard some people say, absolutely don't do it and others who say it works. My thinking is that if they were tiny holes toward the rear of the shroud that it should work to relieve pressure without making much noise at all. What do you guys think, any experience with the holes? What about Huggett silencers, don't they use openings of some sort under the steel mesh on their silencers or is that just for looks? 

Stoti

from a shooters perspective, its best to have all air exit forward somehow be it muzzle or even vented shroud but you'd want the holes angled away from shooter. I have no experience with vented shrouds or even vented moderators so I can't provide input in regards to if they help bleed off some of the pressure and if so how much sound reduction is obtained, or if the sound signature is better or worse from it. Maybe others can chime in!
 
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STO's design is 4.5" long and 1.375" in diameter. It's smallest of any I have by far.The Sumo is 6.25", the Shogun 8" both are 1.6" in diameter and the Clague moderators are 7" and 8.5" and 1.5" in diameter. Sure you can find smaller retractable silencers and probably smaller silencers in general but 4.5" is smaller than most. Even DonnyFL's Tanto, his smallest LDC, is 5" long. Like I said, STO's intention wasn't to make the quietest out there, he wanted to make something small and light that tames the Crown's bark.. It does definitely take the edge off and is a really low pitch which makes it sound even quieter. It's really a cool design that works well. Do a search for "tesla gas diode moderator" or STO and there will be pages and pages of his research, picture and a description of how it works. There are also graphs and everything you can imagine explaining it. He definitely did his research. This isn't the quietest silencer I own for my Crown, the Clague single chamber design reduces report better. However, if I use STO's silencer and extend the shroud a few inches, then it is very quiet and low pitch. If I use it with my shroud extended 2.5", then it's exactly the same length as my Clague LDC. 

Stoti
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Wow, lots of information and experience here guys. 

Thanks for sharing. Based on the information gleaned here, I decided to go with the felt wrap on the forward 1/3 of the Emperor and leave the back 2/3 empty in order to maximize volume. The felt is just to lower the pitch of moderator.

I'd test both the back 1/3rd with felt and 2/3rd forward empty and as you have now, might be slight gain the other way around if you haven't tested already. In theory the first chamber should see the highest pressure blast and would benefit most from it, although theory could be wrong! :)
 
My guess is felt doesn't really occupied that much volume. Stuff it as full as possible and I bet it will be a little quieter. Remember felt or foam is very porous, the volume is much less than it appears. Some of the sound energy impacting the felt will be absorbed and converted into heat energy. Sound impacting the felt fibers move them. Any flexing of any material unless perfectly elastic produces heat. Any sound energy converted the heat is less Sound Energy coming out of the muzzle.