PCP Scope Recomendations

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I was just usning a Bushnell Engage;If you can one less than $175 it is good to go.Also like the Sightron scopes.
Hawke is also good,go Vantage on up ....I think you may be able to get a good enough scope for less than$150...
Also once you start learning you can be safe and purchase a better-used scope. Also get one that has AO .
It is better to learn terminology by Reading up on scope nomenclature.it is not hard to learn.
 
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Vector Veyron 6-24x44 FFP (Non-IR). Just bought my third from Optics Warehouse (UK) for $261, to-my-door. Super compact, lightweight, quality built and clear, bright glass. I use the WestHunter cantilever mount (pictured) since the compact size makes eye relief and scope mounting, with standard rings, awkward. Bushnell scopes also feature clear, bright glass. WM
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Hawke Vantage 3-9 is as cheap a scope as I would recommend. I had a bad experience with a bug buster and absolutely do not recommend anybody buy one. Not only did it shift zero on it's own repeatedly the company totally did not honor their warranty. Took the scope back and then nothing.

If you can spend a little more a Primary Arms 4-16 is a nicer scope for under $200. Both these first two have a simple mil dot reticle. The PA is pretty fine and works better for target shooting. If you want a Christmas tree reticle, a West Hunter can also be had under $200 with that feature. Not as confident in the quality but the one I have has mostly worked fine. A little nicer than those is a Athlon Talos 6-24. I like 6 power for hunting and 24 is nice to have for target shooting. My newest is a Vector sentinel 8-32x50. I think 8 is a little high for hunting but the 32 is really nice for target shooting. The Athlon and Vector have fine line cross hairs that are a little slower for me to see than a simpler mil dot but they've been working OK for a little pesting I've done with them so far. I have both FFP and SFP but I prefer to buy SFP these days. The disadvantage of SFP is the amount a mil dot shifts your POI is a function of the magnification of the scope. The advantage of the SFP is you can see the recticle at low power. If a FFP reticle is reasonably fine at full power I cannot see it at the lowest power. I compensate for the changing mil dot value by understanding how much they mean at 6X (for hunting) and at a higher power, like 16X, for informal target shooting. For more serious target shooting I would rezero the scope for the range the target is at.

I paid no more than $200 for any of these scopes. The glass is not as good as scopes that cost twice as much but it's decent IMHO. The turrets shift POI like they should and they hold zero. The Vantage can at times be had closer to $100. The AO is the tube of the scope instead of a knob in the middle of the scope but it works and is OK for that price point in my opinion.
 
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never hurts to call doug at cameralandny.com and tell him what you want to spend and what sort of shooting.
he might have specials, he can give a better price on the phone, and he can actually look through a variety of models and tell you which one are worth buying.
some scopes seem perfectly fine until you look through something better.
the kind of shooting makes a big difference too?
higher powered scopes are great if your shooting from a bench or rest at targets that are farther away, but if your standing up just plinking at targets in your yard, you might want something like an lpvo (1-6x or 1-10x) so you can use it like a red dot for arcade type fun, and still be able to zoom in a bit.
 
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FIDI_G said:
thanks guys

what kinds of features should I be looking at? I like the idea of zooming in does not change the scale? What is this called? I dont want to spend more than a few hundred bucks what features should I consider at this price point?
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What you're referring to is called a Second Focal Plane (SFP) where the reticle remains the same size when you zoom in or zoom out but the image gets bigger or smaller. With a First Focal Plane (FFP) scope, both the image and reticle gets bigger or smaller when you zoom in or zoom out.

Here's some info to better explain it much better than I can. You could also find similar articles on the differences between FFP and SFP.

www.huntershalt.com

FFP vs SFP - Which Focal Plane Is Best?

Most shooters don't know the difference between FFP & SPF scopes. Read on to learn which scope is best for your specific needs!
www.huntershalt.com www.huntershalt.com
 
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Peskådot671 said:
What you're referring to is called a Second Focal Plane (SFP) where the reticle remains the same size when you zoom in or zoom out but the image gets bigger or smaller. With a First Focal Plane (FFP) scope, both the image and reticle gets bigger or smaller when you zoom in or zoom out.

Here's some info to better explain it much better than I can. You could also find similar articles on the differences between FFP and SFP.

www.huntershalt.com

FFP vs SFP - Which Focal Plane Is Best?

Most shooters don't know the difference between FFP & SPF scopes. Read on to learn which scope is best for your specific needs!
www.huntershalt.com www.huntershalt.com
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Thank you sir!
 
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Expect to pay more for first focal plane (FFP) glass. Japanese glass tends to be used in the best mid-range priced scopes. I have an Arken EPL4 FFP I paid $400. I mounted it on an FX Crown and it has really enhanced my enjoyment of the rifle. I agree with JimD to avoid the Bug Buster. I tried one but gave it away to my grandson on an M-14 Springfield Armory under lever I bought for him. I also use Hawk optics as well as a Centra FFP scope. Can't remember what I paid for them, but 300-400 bucks will get you some good glass that will perform. Obviously, depends on how much you spend on a rifle. Also, with a scope used on an air rifle I would make sure it had parallax adjustment down to 10 yards. I try to avoid cheap Chinese scopes. Philippines and South Korea generally make good scopes though. You can also find vintage U.S.A. made scopes on ebay (older Weaver, Burris, Leupold, Bushnell, Simmons, Redfield etc) Most of these are 1" tubes, but they generally have superior glass. I own alot of them in my collection of vintage rifles.

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FIDI_G said:
In gonna be plinking, target shooting an. Shooting field targets ranging from 20-125yds.
Anyone make a recommendation for a decent scope to be used with a pcp air rifle

Whats a decent scope at a decent budget?

Very new to this scene and dont know what the terminology is.
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If you’re shooting down to 20 yards, make sure you buy a scope with an adjustable parallax down to 20 yard. I have an element optics helix 6–24x50 first focal plane and a Vector Veyron 4-16 x 44 first focal plane and I like both of them a lot.
 
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I wound up with something similar to what a lot of you suggested from an optics perspective. I wound up buying a Primary Arms 4-14x44 https://www.primaryarms.com/primary-arms-4-14x44mm-ffp-riflescope-arc-2-moa-reticle Although I might not have gone this route as it's HUGE! and is quite portly. Still trying to dial it in. I was trying to zero this in at 30 yds and I sux! lol. Tomorrow I'm gonna try at 20yds I might need a much bigger target though. The parallax is adjustable down to 10 yds and its a Front Focal Plane scope. It also has an illuminated retical (not sure if this is more hype than anything but looks cool). That and under $200 were my primary objectives when shopping around. Looks great but's it's big and heavy. I just don't know what I dont know. I probably would have gotten something a bit smaller. I think this is a bit overkill for what I want to do. Oh well. I'm pretty happy with it. I wish Virtual (VR) shopping stores existed. It's so hard to gauge something with out actually engaging with it. Amazon if your listing hopefully in my life time.

If anyone has a good video of how to zero in a scope please let me know I'm all ears. Or has a good idea of how to use MOA to determine range it's all pretty greek to me. Once I find a good video I may have to watch it 50 times before it starts to sink in.

Thanks again for everyone's suggestions!!
 
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Start at 10 yards to get on paper. Aim at the bullseye and shoot in 3-shot groups, regardless of where the pellets hit the target. You are trying to group the pellets in a dime size hole. If you are all over the place, work on your trigger control until you can group three pellets under a dime. Only then should you start twisting your turrets to bring the group onto the bullseye. Once you are grouped in the bullseye at 10 yards, you can move the target out to whatever range you desire and start over with 3-shot groups. When you are grouped, experiment moving the impact left or right or up and down (only move in one direction at a time) to see how many "clicks" it takes to move your impact an inch on paper.
 
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FIDI_G said:
In gonna be plinking, target shooting an. Shooting field targets ranging from 20-125yds.
Anyone make a recommendation for a decent scope to be used with a pcp air rifle

Whats a decent scope at a decent budget?

Very new to this scene and dont know what the terminology is.
Click to expand...
A 5-50 scope like Striker, Trijicon
Take out a fleas ass at 200m
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orangeokie said:
Start at 10 yards to get on paper. Aim at the bullseye and shoot in 3-shot groups, regardless of where the pellets hit the target. You are trying to group the pellets in a dime size hole. If you are all over the place, work on your trigger control until you can group three pellets under a dime. Only then should you start twisting your turrets to bring the group onto the bullseye. Once you are grouped in the bullseye at 10 yards, you can move the target out to whatever range you desire and start over with 3-shot groups. When you are grouped, experiment moving the impact left or right or up and down (only move in one direction at a time) to see how many "clicks" it takes to move your impact an inch on paper.
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thanks I got it dialed in very similar to the way your describing. Im hitting spoon spinners consistently anywhere from 25 to 60 yards. I want to find a good target to dial in my groups then move out to 75 and a hundred yards.
 
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