I have been looking for an easy way to access pellets while shooting my Talon SS. Vantage1200 on YouTube had the perfect one using foam pipe insulation tubing. Reloading is now easy as pie, Thank you Vantage1200. Bill
Pellet Holder
- Thread starter BluegrassBill2020
- Start date
I do much the same thing with the pellet packing from Pyramyd. I tear the small round from one of the layers and punch 10 holes in it with a plastic spudger (about the diameter of a pencil) for .177 pellets. I like to load up 3 of these and drop them in my pocket when I go squirrel hunting.
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I would think a drill bit would work good, just drill the hole a little smaller for a tight fit.
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Drill bits work, sort of but the foam self heals. I used to work with rubber and foam sheets a lot at work. Two ways I learned worked well. One way is to use a thin wall brass tube like they sell in hobby shops. Cut it maybe two inches long and with a tiny triangle file, cut notches in the end of the tube to make it into a rotary bit. Put tube in a drill press and turn it on and it’s now a cutter. You can also skip the notches and either tap it into the foam with a mallet to cut holes like a leather punch.
If you make pellet holders out of thin foam strips you could easily use a leather punch.
Another way I used often with very thin metal, plastic, foam and rubber was to select a drill bit of desired size, then find a piece of plexiglass or aluminum or steel and clamp it in a drill press or milling machine. Now drill a hole with your drill bit. Remove drill from chuck and with a file , grinder or sanding disk face off the shank end so it’s flat and has a crisp edge. Now put drill shank side down in the drill chuck. Check to see if drill shank will easily enter the hole you drilled with it. If not, adjust your drilled piece so shank enters perfectly. Now you have an expefient punch press to punch holes perfectly.
In the machine shop I used gauge pins for a perfect fit instead of the drill shank but not many home shop guys will have them. They were nice because they come in one thousandth increments for a perfect fit.
If you make pellet holders out of thin foam strips you could easily use a leather punch.
Another way I used often with very thin metal, plastic, foam and rubber was to select a drill bit of desired size, then find a piece of plexiglass or aluminum or steel and clamp it in a drill press or milling machine. Now drill a hole with your drill bit. Remove drill from chuck and with a file , grinder or sanding disk face off the shank end so it’s flat and has a crisp edge. Now put drill shank side down in the drill chuck. Check to see if drill shank will easily enter the hole you drilled with it. If not, adjust your drilled piece so shank enters perfectly. Now you have an expefient punch press to punch holes perfectly.
In the machine shop I used gauge pins for a perfect fit instead of the drill shank but not many home shop guys will have them. They were nice because they come in one thousandth increments for a perfect fit.
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I tie a lot of fishing flies out of foam. The best way to make the foam plugs and disks is to cut them our with a sharp edged piece of thin-walled tube.
You can buy fly tying foam cutters (way over priced IMHO) but it is cheap and easy to make them from one of those telescopic "back-scratchers" you can get at the Dollar store. One scratcher will yield a whole range of tube sizes.
The shafts are stainless steel can make good cutters. Just disassemble the shaft and sharpen the edge by chucking the tube in an electric drill and lightly working it on some fine (320-400 grit) sandpaper. Finish the edge by polishing the inside of the tube with a bit of rolled up sandpaper.
Another option is to use an old antenna from a radio. This works OK but the tubes are often made of brass which is less durable.
Cheers!
You can buy fly tying foam cutters (way over priced IMHO) but it is cheap and easy to make them from one of those telescopic "back-scratchers" you can get at the Dollar store. One scratcher will yield a whole range of tube sizes.
The shafts are stainless steel can make good cutters. Just disassemble the shaft and sharpen the edge by chucking the tube in an electric drill and lightly working it on some fine (320-400 grit) sandpaper. Finish the edge by polishing the inside of the tube with a bit of rolled up sandpaper.
Another option is to use an old antenna from a radio. This works OK but the tubes are often made of brass which is less durable.
Cheers!
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If a drill bit is freshly sharpened it will do well cutting most foam. But if it has seen any use at all beforehand it won’t work well. More mashing and tearing than cutting.
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Bought a couple of these years ago from PA when I first got back into shooting, but you can likely make your own homemade versions cheaper.
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I would think just make a "deep" cut with a sharp knife ?
Of course in the start that might be hard to see putting in fresh pellets, but maybe you can highlight the cut with a marker, at least if you use a lighter color foam.
I am picking ( slugs ) from the tin but i am single shot tray user
Of course in the start that might be hard to see putting in fresh pellets, but maybe you can highlight the cut with a marker, at least if you use a lighter color foam.
I am picking ( slugs ) from the tin but i am single shot tray user
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I experimented with drill sizes and depth as shown in YouTube Video. Twisted the bit with my fingers, Easy as abc. The foam holds the pellets firmly but easily extracted. Bill
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1/16 inch craft foam comes in 9x12 sheets , leather punch 1/8 for .177 5/32 for .22 and a couple of small magnets . Push pellets thru with with your thumb they end up in the tips of your finger.
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